How to set float level. Revisited.

Hey guys, any chance someone has pics showing this? None of the links work and the old pics are no longer there. Need some help as the 250 is pissing fuel out the vent tube when the fuel is on.

Not sure where to measure float height from?
 
External Link

If the level is right and its still overflowing double check the viton tip on the float needle. Sometimes they perish, othertimes they just have a bit of grit stopping it from sealing.
 
I just fixed the float level on a kdx last week where the factory specs werent right for that carb because the needle valve seat needed to be altered. Long story short I made a fuel level guage out of tubing and a stopper. The gas goes up the tube to about 2 mm below the mating seam of the carb bowl.
 
External Link

If the level is right and its still overflowing double check the viton tip on the float needle. Sometimes they perish, othertimes they just have a bit of grit stopping it from sealing.

Thanks Jake - that's much better than the one I ended up finding:

http://www.carbparts.com/keihin/needles_tuning/jetting_your_carb.htm

Definitely appreciate the close-up shots with text on 'em - that guy did a good job.

It ended up being the viton tip...sort of. Did you know that if that piece doesn't go back into the fuel inlet that the bike will piss fuel like it's raining :o:o:o

Yeah...should always remember the KISS principle when something goes pear-shaped...lol.
 
HI guys, I'm a new Italian Gasgasser ;)
I've got a 2013 ec 300.
Just a problem: white plug with 40pj N1EF SECOND CLIP 175mj

After slow riding the plug is black and wet but after 300 m fast uphill become white and dry.

The bike runs good but in the long fast uphills there is some lose in power or little bogs ( I'm not sure about the last term ).

The bike was brand new but the mechanic set the float before deliver it to me.

Yesterday I checked the float level and I found between 8 and 10 mm so I hope I found the trouble.

It's more difficult to adjust the float in new PWK vs Mikuni tmx because the pin is so close to the tab the I can't see exactly when the contactoccur.

I hope I have lowered the float up to about 7.5 mm.
The bike does not pay gasoline up to high inclination, do not understand how others do to say that pours on the stand.

If not fix the problem I'll try a 185 mj....

Other ideas?

Thank's
 
Just read the last one. Im too lazy to go back. Somwtimes irs mant posts back.
My suggestion is try a 180 first. Then 182. Then 185. You may be jumping too far with a 185.
That is if you havent already tried it and posted it above.
 
Ok I see it now. :). 175
Try a 180. Get rid of the needle and get a NEDW set at #2

Thank you for the answer but I'll jump to 185 looking for the right direction.

The actual color of the plug after short uphill at 3/4 or more ( non wot ) is not meaning little poorness so I'd like to see dark brown....then reducing in MJ.

But I've never read anyone using a mj bigger than 175 with this needle ( N1EF ) :confused:

The mileage is about 9 - 10.5 Km/l according to the track.
 
The stock needle is the problem. You've lifted the clip to #2 to clean up the lower to mid, which has left it lean in the mid to 3/4 range. You may find a 178 main helps too (check after you've set the float). But overall, the taper profile of the stock needle doesn't work very well. I'd try an NEDW # 3 based in what you have said.
 
The stock needle is the problem. You've lifted the clip to #2 to clean up the lower to mid, which has left it lean in the mid to 3/4 range. You may find a 178 main helps too (check after you've set the float). But overall, the taper profile of the stock needle doesn't work very well. I'd try an NEDW # 3 based in what you have said.

The bike was tuned by an official Gas Gas Italia racing mechanic, directly by the importer from which I have served.
So I'm a bit surprised by this problem that I hope is only carburetion and not suction air Junk (brand new bike).

I've tested also an half clip leaner needle ( NOZF AND NOZH ) in the same groove and in fact the plug color was more white ( if it's possible ).
I've got an NECJ ( half clip leaner than your suggested ) but I'd like to know its profile shape vs NOZX or N1EX. Unfortunately on the Jd jetting sheet is not included.

Are you sure your suggested isn't an half clip different from other known needle?

Any case jumping to 185 mj cover the mid top also and the MJ is very easy to find than needles.

Last one...in my hold pwk on HUsky wr 250 the best was DDJ needle in the mid range precisely because of its high angle of progression that is not found in the oem needles.

Bye :)
 
The stock needle is 3 tapers. It starts with a very short straight section, progresses into a rich first taper, then an alight mid, and the last supplies good fuel towards WOT.

The problem is that the short straight means the diameter has very little effect. Most people turn the idle screw in so far that they are actually fuelling from the first taper. The first taper is rich which gives poor throttle 0-1/4 throttle so most will lift the clip to lean it out, which then sets the second taper up to be too lean when opening the throttle more (as you typically do under loads).

Going to a different needle with a leaner first taper lets you drop the clip position richer to give a clean bottom end, without falling lean in the mid. Top is around the same.

With your half clip leaner in the same clip, it just made you leaner, which is why the plug read whiter.
 
I know all you sad but I do not share when you say rich first taper ecc....

N8rx has a richer first taper than N1Ex.

Then the taper are the same until N1Ex has its third taper much richer than last second taper of N8Rx.

The first taper on triple taper needles "eat" part of straight section so they're richer just out of straight than the same diameter two taper needle that is still in straight at the same throttle opening.

So I ask if you know the profile shape of you suggested needle because if the tapers are the same and starts in the same point ( or half clip different ) they're useless.

The rule is: the thicker the diameter and the shorter the straight section.
 
The suzuki NExx series needles are comparable to the N1Ex/NOZx only on the 2nd and 3rd tapers. The 1st (from clip end) is thicker (leaner)

I've ran N3EJ/N3CJ/NEDJ/NECJ/NOZJ all with the same pilot in the same bike. I had to run the N1Ex on the top clip here to get the bike to run OK, and it still got poor fuel ecomony and spooged heavily. The N1Ex and NOZx over fuel off idle with these bikes.

My suggestion is simply to spend some time experimenting with other needles and see what you find for yourself. Or you could just throw a huge main at the current setup. We are in different parts of the world, possibly using different quality fuels so all that plays into it as well. Only you can work out what will work.

Needles.jpg
 
Thank you very much.
So I understand suzuki needles has a different first taper ( leaner ).

I'll test my NECJ 3# but first I test the float correction, after huge main, last suzuki needle :D

Have a nice day :)
 
No worries. Also, with the much leaner diameter you might find you'll need a 42 pilot, and if the idle seems high initially be sure to drop the slide back down (idle screw out).
 
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