inline water cooler?

nato

New member
Anybody got one or no someone who has? Been thinking about throwing one on as i like the slower more technical stuff so it would get warmer id imagine then normal? Anyway just thought id see if anyone reckons they work.
 
I use two of these, one on each radiator input line. Do they help? Can't say for sure or how much, I have no hard temperature data to prove or disprove. What I can say is I have no, zero overheating or boilover issues in ANY terrain, and I run guards not louvers. Hard racing, slower going with my kids, tight NJ pines at a walking pace, or clawing up a rock covered mountain trail is all good. I think that they must help, and there is no downside, so I will move them over to the '12 and ditch the thermostat.
 
Any links or pix of exactly what were discussing?

Though I have had no overheating problems with my 300, I'm curious. There is some riding in Idaho that I've been on with my old orange thumper that I have wondered how the the cooling system of the Gasser would handle.
 
http://www.gofasters.com/productdet...01&browse=-36148&shopBy=-8819&catalogId=-2231


I originally had these on a Cannondale 440, which would boil if you stared at it too long. These, a fan, and waterless coolant made it ridable in the woods. A little pricey now at $45. The GG 2stroke is probably the most boil resistant bike there is stock, so if you have no issues I'd pass. Try waterless coolant as well if you boil at altitude. I just have them so I use them.
 
i have the same. were on bike when i got them. dunno if they work or not. overheating has not been an issue. i also have aluminum impellor..
 
All the newer impellers are aluminum, if anyone has a plastic one they should get rid of it. The original LTR high flow impeller prototype was a Honda CR250 impeller that was modified for spacing to the pump cover, with closer spacing that the OEM impeller. Production runs were CNC from raw stock. The Checkmate is basically a copy of this, as is his PV cover.
 
I've had zero boiling on my 300 riding in tropical conditions using full rad guards that are often half packed with mud, running jetting on the leaner side of things.

Last test when I was running the 250 top end up a new ST it was all first gear and the needle was a half a clip lean which had the bike making less than ideal power. We were lucky to get past walking pace and there was lots of clutch abuse to keep the forward momentum happening. The other rider has not seen his WR450 boil like that in the 10,000kms he's owned it. The gg didn't lose a drop. If I had one of these coolers I'd use it. Not sure if I'd buy them though as it doesn't seem that they need it.
 
7199421908_0d0357858a_z.jpg
 
You mean the one that goes on the master cylinder? Thats just bling IMO. All the heat is in the caliper, and even so that has never been a problem. Its a widely used brake system. If heat is a problem change your fluid and switch to organic pads.
 
At our local round of the national enduro series, the guy who won e2 had a glowing rear brake disc in the final day 1 Moto test under lights, he was asked about it and said he always drags his rear in motos and never loses the rear to heat/ boiled fluid, just mud if at all. He uses the stock Nissin caliper. It amazed me to see what punishment it can take.
 
Awesome thanks heaps. Do you have the rear brake cooler drawing also?

good idea. nice project to my lathe. When I will change the brake fluid I will do the drawing.

But i have doubts too if this work. If i remember, i will put my hand on these next time I downhill to see if it is hot.

Probably this work better
images


Adding my 2 cents here.
I belive that the in line RADIATORS coolers work ok because they stay very hot during the ride. The diference in temperature between the piece and the air is what made heat transfer.
 
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