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battery delete

SledgeHammerBatterydelete.jpg


You might want to take another look at the original battery box. It appears that it may have the additional function of supporting the seat (4 rubber bumpers on top) which is not accomplished with this piece.
 
Jake what do ya mean 4 stroking?

blub blub blub blub blub... that burbly sound is the bike firing every other stroke instead of every stroke. Its not technically 4 stroking but its a common way of describing it. Caused by a rich condition.

You probably feel that the bike is also really punchy/snappy right off idle. Thats the transition from a rich condition to the lean taper on the needle. The extra fuel off idle isn't so much a bad thing. It helps to cool the engine and also gives this nice punch, but I personally find that it makes the engine very on/off at lower throttle openings and the noise does my head in. You probably will also find the engine will start to load up, spooge and smoke a bit if faced with a tight single trail/muddy conditions where you are riding mostly at small throttle openings. That was my experience.
 
blub blub blub blub blub... that burbly sound is the bike firing every other stroke instead of every stroke. Its not technically 4 stroking but its a common way of describing it. Caused by a rich condition.

You probably feel that the bike is also really punchy/snappy right off idle. Thats the transition from a rich condition to the lean taper on the needle. The extra fuel off idle isn't so much a bad thing. It helps to cool the engine and also gives this nice punch, but I personally find that it makes the engine very on/off at lower throttle openings and the noise does my head in. You probably will also find the engine will start to load up, spooge and smoke a bit if faced with a tight single trail/muddy conditions where you are riding mostly at small throttle openings. That was my experience.

it generally will get worse when the ambient temperature gets warmer...
usually it can be fixed by leaning the air screw out a tad, or maybe lowering needle a notch (but not at the sacrifice of everything the needle affects...). but if the needle taper transition is drastically leaner than the pilot, the pilot or needle may need to be changed (leaner pilot, or richer needle).

it is annoying sound wise to me also and it wastes a bit of fuel.

BUT you can end up chasing your tail with it (i.e. get rid of 4 stroking, but then it won't idle for example) - there are quite a few factors that come into play at that transition point (a/s, pilot size, taper, needle position, and maybe even slide cutaway)- if it doesn't bother you, and it's not jerking the bike outta your hands when it goes into transition, and it's not fouling plugs when you lug the hell outta of it on a hill, and it's not severely down on power at say 1/8 throttle, it's not that crucial...
 
Its also somewhat load dependent, you can't judge it just idling around the neighborhood.

I avoid clip position changes if possible. It?s a relatively crude adjustment if everything is very close. Usually makes things worse in an area that was previously good. I always try to get needles in 1/2 clip increments, and have cut slide wells to use needle clip shims to achieve the same thing.

Get a copy of the JD Jetting spreadsheet and you will see just how much effect your changes actually have, mathematically and graphically. You can really save a lot of time as you can properly evaluate a known setting as a baseline.
 
I agree that you will never fully eliminate it, especially at part throttle up to 1/8th. I do expect a smooth transition onto the first taper though and once on the taper expect the power to be clean and crisp.

Heres a JD graph showing 42 N3CJ#2 178 vs 42 N1EF#1 172. You can see they achieve almost the same thing without the rich as turd lower throttle openings.
 

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So the question is what shall i change 1st? Will have to dig into it too see what they ship with 1st i guess.
 
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