Lets clear up clutch crossover

[dank]

hmm. i wonder how much it would cost to get it to the states.

 

[kendunn]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CLUTCH-FRICTI...323963&cguid=85dd77af12a0a0e202707790ff8d8ab4


http://www.trialendurodirect.com/index.php?cPath=15_17&page=2

But any Gas Gas dealer should be able to sort you out. Last set I bought from a dealer were about the same price. Maybe they don't get them from the factory. Either way they worked fine and didn't need any modification. If the DP ones are as good as their brake pads they should be excellent.

Those don't look to be OEM, there were aftermarket plates here in the states for GG, but I wanted to do the Honda upgrade because the aftermarket GG plates are slightly thinner and seem to be the ones that break or grove out the basket. By adding a bit of thickness (10% thicker) to them it supposedly really strengthens things up.

 

[dank]

im curious, has anybody converted to a honda basket? ive heard a few mentions about the subject, but nothing definate. im very tempted to try it.

 

[stainlesscycle]

i seriously doubt the basket drive gear will work, but there is always that chance.... both the gasgas and honda use a 21t primary gear so, it is possible...

 

[dank]

if i can find an old basket, even one thats shot, i may try it. if i do i will post an update on here.

 

[kendunn]

I called half a dozen dealers to see if one had the washer and would measure it, but no one did. I have 2 GG, one with a good clutch, and what I am thinking about doing is taking the good set out and adding 4 of the newer, thicker clutch plates to the bottom of the stack because thats seems to be the ones that break, and taking the 4 that I take out and putting on the outside of the other bike with the 4 new ones again in the bottom. This may or may not give me enough clearance, but I figure its worth a try.....

I wonder if you had a piece of round stock around 1mm longer than the clutch rod if it would work with the full pack of thicker clutches or is the problem not with how far it pushes but more of a clearance issue?

 

[kendunn]

OK guys, I may have an easy fix

Got my clutch kit in today, $50 for a Tusk from Rocky Mtn ATV for a 92ish Honda CR250R including new springs and metal plates. First I just went ahead and put them in to see what happened. The slave cylinder bumped all the way out and didn't engage at all. The clutch felt like a brake. Pressed the clutch rod back into the engine with a screwdriver and noticed it went way further than a millimeter or 2 back so I figured I had room to work with.

So what I did was basically extend the clutch rod by cutting a short section of the tailpiece of a 1/4" drill bit (3 mm I would guess, and the hardest thing I had) and dropped it in the hollow clutch pin where the rod engages the throwout bearing. The clutch felt good as new after that. I watched it engage/disengage and it looked like there was a lot of movement but it totally engaged once released. I also was able to work the kick start with my hand with the bike in gear with the clutch pulled.

I have to take it back apart and bend the tab over on the lock washer and will take a few pics in case someone doesn't understand what did. I would be really nice if we could find some kind of shim that was about 8mmx2mm and solid and hard. Anyone have an idea? Rack your brains guys for a reason this won't work, I can't think of any. I am assuming the clutch has a lot of movement to allow this to work, like a brake caliper does.

 

[stainlesscycle]

So what I did was basically extend the clutch rod by cutting a short section of the tailpiece of a 1/4" drill bit (3 mm I would guess, and the hardest thing I had) and dropped it in the hollow clutch pin where the rod engages the throwout bearing. The clutch felt good as new after that. I watched it engage/disengage and it looked like there was a lot of movement but it totally engaged once released. I also was able to work the kick start with my hand with the bike in gear with the clutch pulled.

with this method do the clutch springs/bolts rub the clutch cover?

 

[kendunn]

with this method do the clutch springs/bolts rub the clutch cover?

I haven't started the bike yet, but I put the cover on and it seemed to clear, but I figure I can either make a thicker or add another gasket if need be.

 

[GMP]

Good job! All thats needed is to get the clutch slave to travel within its range. We did the same thing on a Husky TE450, stock clutch just screwed up at the factory with a short push rod. For shims, ball bearings work great if the size works out, so if 9mm is OK then 3 x 3mm balls, etc. Other than that, you can cut a piece from a steel rod, clean it up, heat it and quench it in oil to case harden it. Look in mcmaster.com.

 

[Skidad]

More money but Rekluse makes a billet cover you can buy with more clearance and should be stronger than the stock cover. It's for their Core EXP clutch but you can get it seperately for $139

 

[kendunn]

Good job! All thats needed is to get the clutch slave to travel within its range. We did the same thing on a Husky TE450, stock clutch just screwed up at the factory with a short push rod. For shims, ball bearings work great if the size works out, so if 9mm is OK then 3 x 3mm balls, etc. Other than that, you can cut a piece from a steel rod, clean it up, heat it and quench it in oil to case harden it. Look in mcmaster.com.

I was thinking about a ball bearing, if my tests work I may take an 8mm ish ball bearing and put in there after grinding down my push rod about 5mm. I will get a chance tomorrow to hopefully ride and will keep posting anything I find that might help everyone out.

 

[kendunn]

Clay test

I just did a clay clearance test on the clutch basket to cover and it passed no problem. I put clay on 4 or 5 of the high spots and it looked to be 3 mm or more of room. I didn't tighten up the cover, just pressed it on there by hand, but I doubt it would make any difference as it seated against the case.

 

[kendunn]

First test ride

So I manged to grab an hour before dark today and put it all together for real and took off for a quickie.

1) The feel wasn't as progressive as the old, grabbed short and quick, but that may have more to do with it not being broken in plus the heavier springs and the fact that my old clutch was worn out making it very progressive. Hopefully it will break in and do better. Very easy to stall on take off. I figure it will either break in or I will adapt. Come to think of it my sons 250 feels more like this, so it may be what I have grown used to. EDIT----took her out again for a longer ride and the feel is getting much better now

2) Would start in gear even before it had time to warm up (see easy stalling above ). That was something I was worried about.

3) Heavier springs were noticeably harder to pull in. I guess there is no free lunch and maybe they will loosen a bit.

4) Didn't want to abuse it just yet, but tried to get the bike in a little bind to see if there was any slip and couldn't find any. Slave cylinder must be within its range and fully releasing.

5) Neutral was very easy to find, even cold

6) No unusual noises or anything unexpected other than what I have stated. I am calling it a success and don't think more riding will reveal anything, but if I do I will post.

If anyone has a question feel free, if this post is stale you may need to shoot me an email telling me you have posted a question.

 

[PBWR450]

im curious, has anybody converted to a honda basket? ive heard a few mentions about the subject, but nothing definate. im very tempted to try it.

I have a basket from my 02 CRF450 that I tried to fit when I had my EC250 clutch apart to replace the backplate rivets with screws. It would not work (CRF basket) and if I recall right it was due to size difference of the small inner gear that meshes with the kick start idler. I seem to recall reading that the CRF and earlier CR's use the same basket. I had considered removing the primary gear from the CRF basket to see if I could fit it to the EC basket but decided not to at that time. The 02 CRF fiber discs will fit in the GG basket however, they are slightly thicker. I did use 1 fiber to replace a broken fiber disc in the GG. I know not a proper fix but was in a pinch and it has been working well.

 

[ollie]

Gyday Guys, just wondering if anyone has done the Honda clutch plates to a 07 Gasgas 300 fitted with a rekluse ? (early Rekluse) I know that you have to maintain a critical gap and with these plates being a bit thicker Im thinking I may have to use several of the Rekluse steel plates which are slightly thinner to compensate.
also what is the Suzuki thrust washer part number that is required ?

Ollie

 

[stainlesscycle]

Gyday Guys, just wondering if anyone has done the Honda clutch plates to a 07 Gasgas 300 fitted with a rekluse ? (early Rekluse) I know that you have to maintain a critical gap and with these plates being a bit thicker Im thinking I may have to use several of the Rekluse steel plates which are slightly thinner to compensate.
also what is the Suzuki thrust washer part number that is required ?

Ollie

part # is in this thread

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9383

 

[ollie]

Nice work ! thanks very much for that info and link my standard gasgas plates are at the 2.7mm mark (noting new is 2.85) is it time to replace ? The link for the Gasgas repair manual has now been removed only an owners manual is listed

Thanks

Ollie

 

[stainlesscycle]

sent you a pm.

 

[pbelli]

DPK Clutch kit

Has anyone tried the DPK kit? I was also curious about the barnett kit. I found it for $118 but it was on a one off web site so who knows if they can actually get it or they just list all the barnett part numbers. I have an 03 ec300.