Low rpm torque improvement

M

Mikeyx

New member
I've heard there's an insert to be installed between the exhaust port and tailpipe. What is a correct term for it, and where can you buy it?

Are there other ways to improve torque at low engine rpm?

My EC300 wants to slowly die at idle when the engine is hot. Too rich air/fuel mix?
 
That is a kdx trick. On the GG it is easier to get a power valve spacer or a larger cover elvis74 makes the spacers

And jakobi will be able to help you with the jetting
 
I have a larger power valve cover on my 2012 EC300R. Though it did give additional low end power, it wasn't very noticeable. The EC300 has lots of bottom end power as it is. The key is, is to utilize it. A flywheel weight will do just that along with correct jetting. Lots of riders say that the squish and port timing improve bottom end as well.
 
Advance the ignition timing a few degrees by rotating the timing plate opposite the rotation of the flywheel.
 
I think you have something odd going on. Low RPM torque problems are not normally associated with GasGas. I agree with what Terrance said about the large power valve cover. Hardly noticeable, but what I did notice was better jetting (old LTR kit) and switching to Amsoil premix.

Check your jetting.
Add a flywheel weight.
 
Jetting is critical, a flywheel is a nice addition as well. I too would like just a bit more grunt right off idle and plan to play with port timing and squish on head when I do the top end this winter. The 300 is already very good but I ride some very slow rough technical mountain stuff and am getting up there in age so conserving energy is a good thing , lol. Instead of just grabbing a handful of throttle... Now I pick lines and chug through stuff.. One plus is you use way less fuel.
 
While advancing the ignition will help performance in the low and mid rpm it will not likely fix your idle problem. Maybe try opening the air screw or a leaner pilot jet. Also check your reeds to see they are not cracked and that they are sealing properly.
 
Thanks for your comments!

I'm a complete newbie with dirt bikes and offroad riding, and would like to ride at the low rpm spectrum to avoid the power peak. In addition, my road bike (Aprilia RSV) is equipped with a V2 engine and it delivers torque right from 3500 rpm and I kinda prefer riding using torque.

While I'm new to dirt bikes, I am rather experienced in fixing and repairing bikes. I did buy a flywheel weight, but could not install it!!!! The bolt would always cross thread! Without the weight in place, I had no trouble threading the bolt (old or new). It seemed as if the extra weight did not center itself on the flywheel. Well, I returned the damn thing...
 
What year is your bike and what has been checked?

Low compression (rings out of spec) can often cause soft power and an engine that feels like it needs more revs than it should. Poor idle and harder starting is also usually noted. If it's a used bike getting a bit long in the tooth it may be worth investigating. You'll never jet/tune around a mechanical issue.
 
Guys, don't get me wrong.

Most probably there is nothing wrong with my bike (EC300, 2009, 2600km on the clock). I'd just like to have even more low-end torque than what I get. I have not been able to stall the engine one single time while riding, so I do not suspect that there is actually anything wrong.

I am a newcomer to offroad riding with zero riding skills, and my needs for a bike are much different from die hard riders.
 
What sprocket combo are you using? Gearing it shorter is always an option. Most go for something around 13-50.

Jetting will clean things up and change the nature of the bike.

Head mod will allow for easier more consistent jetting, improved fuel economy, and more power across the rev range.

With the head mod, you could look at increasing compression above stock to increase bottom end response and snap.

You can also check the port timing and drop the cylinder a bit to move the power curve down (depending on current base gasket stack). Factor this into the head mod as the difference will be seen at squish clearance and directly affect that and compression ratios.

Ignition timing advanced as stated by Zman.

Aftermarket pipe. Something that is more orientated towards bottom end.

So that gives you a few things to work with. Some easier than others. Common trend though, is that if you take steps to improve bottom end performance it usually comes at an expense of top end (or top speed in terms of gearing).

Having the ports setup and head milled by a knowledgable tuner gives the biggest benefit and allows you to achieve a broad spread of usable power - or can be setup in either direction depending on your desires.
 
I don't know if the block going into the cdi is the same, I haven't dared try or bothered to look! But the colours going into the block from the stator etc are the same. You will have to make an earth point though, more than easy! Like mentioned on the other post, gas gas 125 and KTM 125 should fit too! I'd also make sure you have the best needle jet and pilot, theyake a huge difference!
 
I'm in the same boat as you, new rider, new to offroad, new to bike, EC300. A few observations:

- give it time (get more experience), as you ride more and more you will appreciate the bike more and more, it has enough low end power to get you anywhere

- learn to use the clutch, my brain is telling me that the power comes from twisting the wrist, when in fact power, the traction and the low eng grunt should be controlled using the clutch, this one i find the hardest of all just to rewire my brain instinct

- do not be scared of the power valve, get used to it and learn how to use it and when. i got used to it by accelerating slowly till it opens on straight fire roads, now it won't take me by surprise anymore (i leaned the spot) but i still have a lot to learn about body positioning before it opens so i don't have to "hold on for dear life" so much

- make sure you are in the proper gear for the required climb/hill/terrain/etc, me as a total noob if i can't tell witch gear i should be in for the obstacle ahead, i switch to 1'st or 2'nd and it just climbs anywhere

- look at the tires, are they in good shape ? are they old ? are they ... etc ? tires have a lot to do with traction, if you don't have traction you won't feel the low end grunt if you are like me - a total beginner. if they are old even with knobbies not worn out, the rubber compound won't give you the traction you need, change them

- this is a 2 stroke after all, there is only so much low end you can have (trus me, trust the forums, trust the riders, the bike has enough). the engine is built to be wind up, get used to it and ride it hard. from my beginner perspective the EC300 has enough low end torque to be compared to a 4 stroke

- last thing, if you are still not satisfied give the bike for a quick spin to somebody experienced, they will tell you if it pulls right or not (i did, twice, just to make sure the "hold on for dear life" and the grunt down low are as what they should be, everybody keeps coming back and tells me the bike climbs on her own without any effort from the rider, i need to trust the bike more)

Have fun, and remember this is a very powerful bike, take it slowly one baby step at a time.

p.s. it's very easy as a beginner to get sucked in to the spiral of making changes to the bike, what i actually need is more seat time than messing with jetting and be worried about low end grunt
 
The point about the clutch is very valid. The most important thing I learnt from a Chris Birch training day was to ride with your guns out like a cowboy - one finger on the clutch one finger on the brake. This habit will save you many times - about to flip or whisky throttle- just pull in the clutch and once you know the engagement point you will be able to climb in just about any gear (sometimes accompanied by OEM gas gas clutch squeal)

Adjust the clutch to disengage before the lever hits the rest of your fingers that way you don't need to let go of the bars when you come to a stop
 
Mikeyx said:
Thanks poelinca. Your comments are for me of great value!
Click to expand...

Glad i could be of assistance, it's only what i have learned as theory during the time i rode the bike (a total of 6-8 days out in the woods an hills) and try to apply, it's very hard at start though however it only gets better and better (but i enjoy every minute of it, and always want more and more).

swazi_matt said:
The point about the clutch is very valid. The most important thing I learnt from a Chris Birch training day was to ride with your guns out like a cowboy - one finger on the clutch one finger on the brake. This habit will save you many times - about to flip or whisky throttle- just pull in the clutch and once you know the engagement point you will be able to climb in just about any gear (sometimes accompanied by OEM gas gas clutch squeal)

Adjust the clutch to disengage before the lever hits the rest of your fingers that way you don't need to let go of the bars when you come to a stop
Click to expand...

Yes, forgot about the fingers on the clutch and break. I do it too, if the finger gets tired i switch to two fingers, then back to one and so on. Eventually arm pump kicks in an i need to take a break. But yes, it saved me a ton of times!
 
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