LTR power valve covers for GG2011

With todays tech, you would have to think that you could use a mini tach, with minimal electronics/computer to run a linear actuator, settig up a power curve with say 5 different options would seem like a very buildable option. I would have to imagine that finding said actuator that would function off of GasGas's goofy dc/ac current would be the tough part unless of course you were running the lazy e-start version :p
 
Controller integrated with a CDI and matching advance/opening curves is the way to go in theory. I'd put the actuator under the side cover in place of the governer. There should be enough juice to run it even with a 2K-2.
 
Agreed, where is that guy who needed a college project? This one would be interesting, and maybe worth a couple bucks if he did a good job.
 
TM has gone to an electronically actuated PV on their 125, and in doing so dropped the 144, claiming the tiddler now has more bottom and top than the bigger bike.
 
Just being a hydraulic damper, it would be rate sensitive only, not RPM sensitive, as long as there is no internal spring to offset the PV system like the Trusty.

Affirmative. The PV system stil operates the same through the govenor. The TEC only adds resistance to its action to change the rate. It cannot make it open earlier or later. Only the same speed as setup, or slower. I don't see it being worth the coins.

The electronic ones sound like the ducks nuts. Mix in some fuel injection while you're adding to it and you'll have an almost electric bike.

Heres something left of field. The trailtech vapor has a tacho and the ability to activate a warning light based on rmp. How much harder would it be to have the warning light signal to an electronic PV actuator to open. Adjustable powervalve timing. Then have say 5 different options for opening speeds/rates. Would be super versitile.
 
Not as simple as one signal operation. A CDI/PV actuator controller is the way. The actuator would be a small stepper motor, very much like an IAC (idle air control) motor in a fuel injection system, about the size of a quarter. Without getting too deep here, the CDI control needs to calculate rotational time anyway from an internal clock so having this data available for the actuator control is no problem. I could do this if I only had the time. Blitz was working on a CDI and had it working on the bench.
 
For a new bike a whole new CDI and integrated PV would be ideal. I agree with the small step motor and having it away from the actual PV chamber using an actuator arm like we have now would ensure it wouldn't get gummed up. Not sure about you, but I've done my fair share of cleaning IAC's in cars. Your design is a real design Glen :) Mines some back yard aftermarket tack on idea.
 
The last Honda 2 stroke MX bikes had the electric power valves.
The Yamaha RZ350 had them also. When you turn the key on, it would cycle the power valve to clean it off.
 
Yes, they had the actuator under the tank and drove the the PV with push/pull cables. The Honda CR250s if I remember correctly were very smooth with this system. Properly packaged it could be a reliable workable system. Thats why I would put the actuator under the side cover, and use the existing linkage. An oil tight grommet for the wires is all that would give it away.
 
I have a self made version
It cost 20,-euros
see pictures
the plate is 10mm thick and some of my friend assembled 2 pcs.
 

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Yes, they had the actuator under the tank and drove the the PV with push/pull cables. The Honda CR250s if I remember correctly were very smooth with this system. Properly packaged it could be a reliable workable system. Thats why I would put the actuator under the side cover, and use the existing linkage. An oil tight grommet for the wires is all that would give it away.

A person could install different weight balls in the governer and change the power characteristics.
 
That too, and springs, shims as well. Like a Rekluse. More likely to show up for real than the electronic version, but less technically correct in theory.
 
I have a self made version
It cost 20,-euros
see pictures
the plate is 10mm thick and some of my friend assembled 2 pcs.

due to the not ending request, I will do a new series of distance plates. Now 15mm big. If somebody is interesed, I can check how much the international shipping will be.
 
due to the not ending request, I will do a new series of distance plates. Now 15mm big. If somebody is interesed, I can check how much the international shipping will be.

Go on, see how much you can do up a nice big professional batch for. If you can get them done cheap enough and good international postage I might be interested in trying one.
 
30,- USD (25,-?) including shipping should be possible.
But only the plate, without screws nd gaskets.

I do this just for fun and not for doing business.
 
Very understandable! The price sounds pretty good. Just a quick question. In the second picture I see you have the center brace that runs down and holds the middle bolt. Does this effectively reduce the volume of the power valve by cutting it in 2 and then sealing some of it off? Hope that makes sense.
 
honestly, I don'T know.
I had one plate installed and was very impressed how the gasser runs and how much more torque you had at the lowes rpm.
A friend of nie installed 2 plates and he told me that the effect was much more noticable. I dont think that the rip on the middle will affect it, but I kow guy who has cut out the rip and only installed the bushing which which left, to use the inner screw.
 
Yeah if you could make one without the inner rib I'd be keen as! If not may be able to modify it some.
 
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