Well guys i feel my age catching up to me seems now when i ride my wrists hurt so bad when i ride continuous that my throttle side wont twist past half throttle i just bent my new bars looking for a new bend my last pair were woods high bend and i think them being too tall didnt help, flexx bars are out of the question but i do plan to buy twinwalls or new pro taper i also have heard that the renthal bars have less sweep? Or are more straight and put less pressure on the wrists if someone could shed some light for me id appreciate it looking at my lap time from sunday i could have easily won my class hadnt i had to stop for 10 mins for wrists
Need advice bar bend for xc rider with wrist trouble
- Thread starter jt633
- Start date
Rick
New member
I've beven using Pro Taper CR High bars, I don't have wrist issues but I do find them comfortable either standing or sitting.
Renthal and Pro Taper have height , sweep and widths charts for determining which bend you might like.
Use your current bars as a guide to determine what you don't like, then adjust from there.
Hope this helps.
Good luck
pscook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Another option is vibration and shock damping bars-
Carbon- http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15355&highlight=twisted+bars
Or isolation style- http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13848&highlight=fasst
Carbon- http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15355&highlight=twisted+bars
Or isolation style- http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13848&highlight=fasst
TheLetterJ
New member
Handlebars
You can't really go by which bar works best for another person, difference in torso length/ arm length/ shoulder width/ seating (and standing) position/ etc. will all affect how a bar feels to a specific person.
One way to see if a certain sweep is best for you is to look at the palm of your hands after riding with your current bars... if you have calluses at the outside fingers, you need less sweep. If you have calluses at the inside fingers, you need more sweep.
Width is another factor. Unless you NEED narrow bars to avoid smacking trees, this is the method that I recommend: get on the ground and do a few push-ups, your hand placement should settle into a consistent and comfortable spot. Without moving from that position, have Wifey get the tape measure and measure from the outside of one hand to the outside of the other. This is the width that your body naturally wants to be at, get bars of the same width.
Typically a rider with longer arms in relation to their height (for example, I am 6'5" but have a 6' 10 1/2" armspan... insert monkey joke here) will NOT like a taller bar (you can reach low bars just fine!) but will like the bars to be further forward, the opposite is true for riders with shorter arms. Height is really hard to make a recommendation on, if you uncertain of your preference, you can find bars that have the width and sweep that you are looking for but in their lowest height available and experiment with different height bar risers.
Renthal twinwalls (or any bar with a cross-brace) are notoriously rigid (but very strong) which won't do your wrists any favor if they are already bothering you. I would stick with a tapered aluminum bar (single wall) for the best shock absorption/ flex, unless you want to drop some coin for Flexx bars or carbon fiber bars. If your bars are not currently rubber mounted, there are kits to make them so for most bikes (I used a kit from BRP.)
How is your suspension? The more your suspension soaks up, the less beating your body will have to take.
How is your lever position? Can you reach your clutch/ brake without moving your wrists?
If vibration is the issue, there are ways to address that as well. Some items will help reduce shock from impacts (i.e. rubber bar mounts), others will simply attempt to cancel out resonance (i.e. bar end weights) and there is a lot of overlap in these products. Many people resort to these things due to their hands going numb (as with everything else mentioned, it works for some people, while not others.)
Taking note of these few things is definitely worth your time. Having all your controls in a comfortable and natural feeling position makes it much easier to concentrate on where you want the bike to go, instead of what you need to do with your body.
This is what works for me, your mileage may vary.
You can't really go by which bar works best for another person, difference in torso length/ arm length/ shoulder width/ seating (and standing) position/ etc. will all affect how a bar feels to a specific person.
One way to see if a certain sweep is best for you is to look at the palm of your hands after riding with your current bars... if you have calluses at the outside fingers, you need less sweep. If you have calluses at the inside fingers, you need more sweep.
Width is another factor. Unless you NEED narrow bars to avoid smacking trees, this is the method that I recommend: get on the ground and do a few push-ups, your hand placement should settle into a consistent and comfortable spot. Without moving from that position, have Wifey get the tape measure and measure from the outside of one hand to the outside of the other. This is the width that your body naturally wants to be at, get bars of the same width.
Typically a rider with longer arms in relation to their height (for example, I am 6'5" but have a 6' 10 1/2" armspan... insert monkey joke here) will NOT like a taller bar (you can reach low bars just fine!) but will like the bars to be further forward, the opposite is true for riders with shorter arms. Height is really hard to make a recommendation on, if you uncertain of your preference, you can find bars that have the width and sweep that you are looking for but in their lowest height available and experiment with different height bar risers.
Renthal twinwalls (or any bar with a cross-brace) are notoriously rigid (but very strong) which won't do your wrists any favor if they are already bothering you. I would stick with a tapered aluminum bar (single wall) for the best shock absorption/ flex, unless you want to drop some coin for Flexx bars or carbon fiber bars. If your bars are not currently rubber mounted, there are kits to make them so for most bikes (I used a kit from BRP.)
How is your suspension? The more your suspension soaks up, the less beating your body will have to take.
How is your lever position? Can you reach your clutch/ brake without moving your wrists?
If vibration is the issue, there are ways to address that as well. Some items will help reduce shock from impacts (i.e. rubber bar mounts), others will simply attempt to cancel out resonance (i.e. bar end weights) and there is a lot of overlap in these products. Many people resort to these things due to their hands going numb (as with everything else mentioned, it works for some people, while not others.)
Taking note of these few things is definitely worth your time. Having all your controls in a comfortable and natural feeling position makes it much easier to concentrate on where you want the bike to go, instead of what you need to do with your body.
This is what works for me, your mileage may vary.
TheLetterJ
New member
Best double grips ever. But seriously has decreased arm pump 80% and carpal tunnel sensation by 100% numb fingers are also gone.
How hard was that to put on? I wear a size 12 glove (XXL) and the increased bar diameter sure would make things more comfortable (if you've ever ridden a Harley with 1" bars, you know what I'm talking about.) I experimented by putting a clutch side grip on the throttle tube and I can feel the difference in width, but I never found a reliable way to make the clutch side bigger. I was considering trying some gaffer's tape (or similar) on the bars before putting the normal grip on.
GasGasDreamer
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Best double grips ever. But seriously has decreased arm pump 80% and carpal tunnel sensation by 100% numb fingers are also gone.
very cool
doctor says to use gel pads to isolate bar vibration.
says that the vibration is the cause of carpal tunnel,,,,
GasGasDreamer
Platinum Level Site Supporter
if you look at the evolution of tuna fishing poles....they used to be big/long.
the thinking was it gave more leverage to pull the fish out with.
they problem is the fish has more leverage to you also.
they shortened the poles and it is easier when fighting a fish
i think bars are the same.
yes they longer gives you more leverage to steer but rocks etc gain more leverage against you too.
but i agree with the idea for fitment above
Interesting analogy with the evolution of tuna fishing.
I'm assuming you mean live bait commercial fishing 1-3 pole.
Agree with the letterj here on most of the comments.
Definately on the right track with bar width and rubber mounting.
In the northwest a lot of us are restricted to 29" or so if you wanna avoid trees.
One added benefit to the narrower bars for me personally is compact steering,or quick steering,less effort.Less grip required.Also gives you a more compact and balanced riding position.You aren't reaching which means you use less grips.One thing I'm always reminding myself,and I forget a lot,usually when I'm beat.Is to ride the rear wheel,steer with the rear and use your lower body.We tend to grip and put way to much weight on the bar.One exercise I use to beat it into my brain and muscle memory is the elipticle machine.Most people get on one grab the cross bar lean on it and pound away.What you want to do is never touch the bar.Set your settings so you have enough resistence that forces you to align you body and use alignment,balance pace and endurance to make it tbrough a good 30 minute run.As you get stronger,lower legs and core,most important for me besides flexibilty as far as making me a better rider,you can manipulate incline and rrsistence.The idea is to create quick reactionary mustle,agility and balance.Shifting weight will be automatic,loading pegs effortless,when the bike takes a bad bounce you'll be in it and roll with it instead of sitting on it and getting spit off.
If you do that 30 minutes 3 times a week you will use far less arms,hands and wrist to get your motorcycle through the day.
I've had wrist problems for years to the point I'm outta bolt on fixes.
Copper bracelets help.Tape wrists before riding,not to tight.When everybody's dinking around at the truck get on the bike and do a quick pre ride rip.
Red rubber tubing between skid plate and frame.Quiet and well packed exhaust.The noise is fatiguing,creates stress tightens the rider up.Thin rubber grommets backed to aluminum washers strategically placed will help dampen vibration.
Noticed quite a few golfers in here.
Grip size and pressure are key elements.Same with your bars.
Rick
New member
As I was reading this is looking at the palms of my hands. I've been racing about every other weekend since January and my palms are pretty we'll calluesed up. I have serious callues on all my fingers but both index fingers? I also have a callueses on each palm near the outside, about in the middle.
I use Pro Taper Pillow Top grips and I noticed last week when I replaced them that the pillows were about half missing towards the end of the grips.
I don't suffer from wrist issues.....could my bars be the issue, or how much I have them rotated?
Thanks....
Didn't mean to derail.....but J has brought up some very interesting points..
spooly
New member
iv injured my wrist s numerous times and there week and easy to tare so I went and bought wrist braces now I never ride without them..one of my best investments yet..it might not solve your problem but if u don't have um I would consider getting some. .
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GasGasDreamer
Platinum Level Site Supporter
what braces do you use?
are these through a medical doctor?
anyone have prescription braces? and feeback on those?
thanks
swazi_matt
Active member
You are unlikely to get callouses on your palm at the pointing finger because you generally ride with that finger on your brake and clutch (or should!)
spooly
New member
ill have info and pics later on them later I must pull the gear out and brush off the mud.. h&h tomorrow
