New 2012 or wait for 2013

[Diggs345]

The fork inserts were cheaaap!! ...compared to the shock.. which was still cheap compared to a new bike.. hhahahah! Its all relative! No wifey to justify the finances to.. Just a girl friend to justify the time in the shed with... Maybe I should buy all the parts I need and then marry her.. That way she'll be happy I'm out in the shed.

So what are the prices you're looking at?? For 2012 in Aus both bikes came with the same suspension..
EC300 ELC: $11399.00
EC300R: $11599.00
..So you actually ended up paying a couple hundred more for less (for a flash sticker kit).

From stock ec to race is 1000$ more
The fork inserts are $1500 ish

 

[Jakobi]

From stock ec to race is 1000$ more
The fork inserts are $1500 ish

I just found a brand new set FGG1283 to suit 48mm Sachs listed for $1039USD. Just sayin..

I must admit I was thinking of the E-start kit for the 2011 models where you needed to get more changed to include the battery box. No such mods on the 2012 so it would be pretty cheap to go straight from R to Estart add on.

 

[GMP]

I'd do a KYB 48mm SSS conversion before dropping that much on Ohlins inserts. Plenty out there from blown up and parted out 250Fs, easy to valve for any use, and parts on every corner. You already have the correct dia clamps. I'm going to build a 200 for my son out of my '07 250, and might do this as well.

 

[Jakobi]

I'd do a KYB 48mm SSS conversion before dropping that much on Ohlins inserts. Plenty out there from blown up and parted out 250Fs, easy to valve for any use, and parts on every corner. You already have the correct dia clamps. I'm going to build a 200 for my son out of my '07 250, and might do this as well.

And in hindsight I would probably have to say I'd do the same thing, purely from the servicing point of view. TTX is going to require me to get a few extra tools to service the inner cart, and then go to the shop to have them pressurize the chamber.

 

[GMP]

I will not own anything that I cannot service myself, but thats just me. If its just tools then no big deal, I made tools I did not have and could not buy for the 48 CC Zokes, and a shock pressurizing setup also.

What makes me a little skeptical of TTX, is that I see none, zero, on bikes here in our series. Lots of fast guys here too who can probably get and ride with what they want. I suspect the price and small knoweledge base keeps people away.

 

[Clay]

I've ridden both now and I would take the 48mm Marzocchi over the Ohlins any day. Both are excellent over little stuff but the Marzocchi has much better bottoming resistance. The PFP valve gives more tuning options too.

 

[Jakobi]

I heard that the 2010/2011 Ohlins had a tendancy to bottom easily, however Ohlins has made changed to their 2012 stack to reduce bottoming.

In all honesty if its going to cost the same either way I'd take the easy option and just buy the bike that already has the closed cart forks on it. Servicing will be easier too.

Now.. who's got some pics of these 2012/2013 models to spice things up

 

[GMP]

Thats my point, why should you have to wait for Ohlins to make changes to the valving? You should be able to pull that apart and adjust a few shims as needed, or at least any tuner should. I understand that the advantage of TTX is a wider dynamic range of performance, but no way can that cartridge setup work for everyone. Who is the stock TTX valving targeted for?

Can't wait to get mine out and start hitting stuff to loosen it up! FWIW Les tells me to pop the wipers and get some seal grease between the wipers and seals, will help initial stiction a lot.

 

[Jakobi]

I read that too about the grease assisting the stiction! Let us know how it helps Glenn. I'm really looking forward to your initial ride report once you get the pipe guard fitted up.

TTX is marketted at MX/Enduro but as you said its only a middle of the field valving. I must admit the clickers do have a great effect though from what I'm experiencing. Any tuner can also bust into the TTX and change the shim stack as per any other fork. Just not as big a database out there about what works and what doesn't.

 

[Diggs345]

One for clay

Hi clay

To turn a 12 race model into electric start how much of the kit would be needed , can this be ordered from the factory .
I have asked gas gas uk but as yet had no answer.

Thanks for any help

Chris

 

[Clay]

Hi clay

To turn a 12 race model into electric start how much of the kit would be needed , can this be ordered from the factory .
I have asked gas gas uk but as yet had no answer.

Thanks for any help

Chris

Chris,
I'm not sure about that. The kit for the '11 was about $950 US but that included a subframe. The '12, obviously, does not need the new subframe. Let me ask Mark at Go Fasters.
Clay

 

[Diggs345]

Chris,
I'm not sure about that. The kit for the '11 was about $950 US but that included a subframe. The '12, obviously, does not need the new subframe. Let me ask Mark at Go Fasters.
Clay

Thanks clay
Im almost decided now , 2012 300 race , unless they release the 2013 in the next few days lol

 

[Jakobi]

I hope they get your bike ready and delivered in time I had the same mind set for a 2012 200R with the coins in the bank to back it all up. The bike just never arrived.. Maybe next year

 

[Diggs345]

I got a reply about the electric start kit , it's ?500 or $780us
Then the race over here is ?600 or $935 more than the standard ec , that means I'd be paying $1700 to get the marzocci forks , I know there are other extras on the race but that is a big stack of cash .
Do you think the Marz forks will be night and day better or just marginal .
Sorry for all the questions , I just want to be sure before I put my order in on Monday .
So it comes down to starter , or forks for $900 more

 

[GMP]

Make sure what ignition you will get first. Mine showed up with a 2K-2 that cannot be used with estart, at least not with stock parts. Could be just a USA Race model thing, or a parts availability thing, only GG knows for sure. Are the Euro Race models like ours with just a head/tail light, or the full Euro setup like they always have been?

 

[Diggs345]

From what i understand its got all the euro kit on , but thats a good point to check up on , i do have a on the road price though so im assuming it will be ready to go.

 

[Jakobi]

Even if you end up with a 2k2 i'm sure you'd have no problems finding someone who would swap you for a 2k3

 

[GMP]

If the Euro Race Model has the full lighting and harness then most certainly it will have the 2K-3. I do not believe the 2K-2 has the capacity to run all the Euro gear.

 

[Diggs345]

Well they told me the full kit was ?500 so id hope it included everything .
Looking at the pictures it has front signal lights and the cable and pickup for the speedo.
The specs for these bikes is lacking in detail a bit

 

[Jakobi]

Well they told me the full kit was ?500 so id hope it included everything .
Looking at the pictures it has front signal lights and the cable and pickup for the speedo.
The specs for these bikes is lacking in detail a bit

Thats Gas Gas for you. I was told my 2010 EC300R (euro) had the lighter ignition (2K2) and it turned up with a 2K3, which makes sense really as it also came road registered for Aus with full lighting kit. High/Low beam, all indicators, brake lights and best of all, a horn

If you are buying one that includes on roads then for your dealer to pass the road worthy it will have to have all the bits on it, which you'd assume means for your country all will come complete (as they do in Australia). The US of A get a different fit out based on what they have negotiated, and then being a Gasser you always get the odities where some have this and some have that.. Mostly aways due to supply issues.

Its a tough call mate. Almost sounds like it'd be cheaper to buy the E start which you know will have everything you need, get the Sachs set up and if you can't get along with them then consider some better boingers once the pennies have built up some more.