new bike, what to do?

R

rzide

New member
Hello all!!!
I just purchased a xc300E racing edition from a local shop. This will be my first gas gas and also my first big two stroke. I haven't had a chance to ride it at length yet and was wondering is there anything the bike needs or anything I should do to the bike before I ride it for the first time. Any info regarding tips and tricks to owning a gas gas will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again!
 
What I usually do:

Check oil level
Remove one link (dog bone) bolt and check if it's lubrificated.
Check spokes
Check bolts
Check Air filter

Warm and let engine cool 3 times...

Than ride for 1h (new engine, so, be easy with right hand) and re-check bolts and spokes.

after first ride change engine oil and check spokes

after 20h change forks oil

Done!
 
Leo said:
What I usually do:

Check oil level
Remove one link (dog bone) bolt and check if it's lubrificated.
Check spokes
Check bolts
Check Air filter

Warm and let engine cool 3 times...

Than ride for 1h (new engine, so, be easy with right hand) and re-check bolts and spokes.

after first ride change engine oil and check spokes

after 20h change forks oil

Done!
Click to expand...

I agree with the points in 'bold', I disagree with the points underlined;

Heat cycling does nothing for modern aluminum engines. Riding with an easy right hand for the first hour will guarantee that your ring(s) will never seat properly.
I always do a full pre-check of everything on the bike and fully lube all bearings etc. before starting the bike.
Once I start it, I warm it up for a few minutes til the cylinder is warm/hot to the touch. Then I take the bike out and ride it hard on a flat open area for 20 minutes. (make sure your jetting is at least a tad rich for this part). Lots of 70-90% throttle runs up thru the gears and engine braking back down.
Engine break-in is now complete.
Do a post ride check of everything and go ride again the way you ride normally to break-in the suspension.
 
Lock wire the throttle cable if not already done, light rub with wet and dry sandpaper on brakes disks, clean with brake cleaner, buy some dielectric grease and grease all electrical connectors ( including the earth next to coil just above engine on rhs, frame may need a light sandpaper to guarantee connection). Add an inline fuel filter to the fuel line between tank and carb. I always glue and lock wire grips.

Do all the other things mentioned by others and you will have a dream run.

As mentioned previously, the spokes move on the first couple of rides then settle. You could go further and seal up the airbox and check the seal interface for plastic casting burrs that can cut the filter.

I do this to all bikes not just gg.
 
Make sure the tire pressures are right. Make sure the chain is adjusted properly and lubed. Make sure the air filter is oiled. Definitely want to red locktite the kickstart bolt and the kickstand bolt. And like said before check the spokes after each ride for the first 3 rides at least. Ever since the bikes went to nicosil plated cylinders there really is no breakin period. I run my bikes right out of the box with the same oil mix and jetting that I would normally run. If you run the jetting and oil on the rich side when new all you are doing is carboning things up that much quicker.
 
Heres the thread I'm running on the one I just picked up. http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16254

As others have said, pay attention to the smaller details. Make sure everything that needs grease has grease, all fluids are where they should be. Set the ergos to suit your feel, set up your sag. Also check the rear brake line isn't rubbing against the engine casing.
 
It's worth checking that the power valve drain tube zip tie is removed and that the neck of the radiator filler doesn't have any roughness.
 
Wow thanks for all the responses !!!!

I do have one question about the jetting, Is the stock sufficient or should I change it before riding it much? I saw where it came with a lot of different jets and such. I am no carb tuner by any means but if instructed which jets and settings to do i can usually manage ( I am not good at fine tuning and tinker because I have no idea what does what and what the settings should be). Ive also heard good things of JD jet kits. Is this something I should consider or do I have everything I need? Id really like to not mess with the jetting every time I ride. I ride at sea level (close to it anyway)

Thanks!
 
For a 300, you'll be looking at a 40/42 pilot. Needles might take a bit fine tuning, but for $50 you'll get a handful that will work, and mains 172, 175, and 178 will cover it.

Just double check the model of carb you have.
Take the time to set the float height.
Then drop in the jets you decide on.

What kind of power delivery are you after? Most with the newer bikes are loving the 40/42 NEDJ/NECJ 172/175 combo.
 
I just got my brand new 2013 EC 300 home and I have started to assembly. When I check the oil lever I can't see any oil at all, even when I lean it over. Don't they start every engine at the factory?
 
Waip said:
I just got my brand new 2013 EC 300 home and I have started to assembly. When I check the oil lever I can't see any oil at all, even when I lean it over. Don't they start every engine at the factory?
Click to expand...

Good chance they ship them without engine oil. Please check before starting.
 
gasmonkey said:
On the box there should be a big sticker saying NO GAS NO OIL.
Click to expand...

HUGE even!

You'll get a dribble come out of the clutch. I drained what was in mine and then put fresh oil in. I'd also suggest flushing the carb bowl and tank a few times before firing it up too.

Newtoy1_zpsc9f2597f.jpg
 
twowheels said:
It's worth checking that the power valve drain tube zip tie is removed and that the neck of the radiator filler doesn't have any roughness.
Click to expand...

Hi Steven - what's the idea behind this comment ?

"neck of the radiator filler doesn't have any roughness"

Cheers
 
wa_ndro said:
Hi Steven - what's the idea behind this comment ?

"neck of the radiator filler doesn't have any roughness"

Cheers
Click to expand...

Glenn (GMP) had issues with his 2012 model where the casting was quite average in the rad where the cap seats. Basically to the point where the cap failed to hold pressure, and blew itself dry... during a race. Wasnt picked up until afterwards.. Could have been a major issue but the resiliant engine held up to the punishment. Regardless, easier to check it rather than not.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

gladtobekickin
Tips or Tricks on pulling the carb?
Replies
10
Views
59
swazi_matt
S
N
2012 Guillaume race edition wheel spacers
Replies
6
Views
3K
SS109
SS109
M
Engine surge/runaway?
Replies
4
Views
162
Mustyeddie
M
A
A little help please for someone new to gasgas trials bikes
Replies
5
Views
2K
cbutler
cbutler
Anders
Bad smell from gear oil
Replies
4
Views
60
Anders
Anders
Back
Top