Newbie GasGas owner / help with suspension tuning

S

SingleTrackMind

New member
Hi guys,
I'm a new GasGas owner and a bit lost as to where to begin tuning my suspension. I just picked up a 2011 Nambotin and love the bike. It's a blast to ride. The only complaint I have is that the suspension is obviously not set correctly for me. I can feel every pebble on the path and for Colorado that's a bad thing give the amount of large rocks I ride on the trail. Would anybody on here be willing to give me some quick and dirty answers to help me get started. I have searched and read several suspension related posts but would really love it if I could get some newbie responses to a handful of questions.
So here goes:
1. Are there any fork bleeders that will fit the MARZOCCHI 48mm Fork or is my only option to pull the caps and drill / tap them to fit some? I read a few posts and it looks like they just don't make one?
2. I'm 182lb without gear. What size shock spring should I look for and where can I buy it? Looks like from other posts a 5.4 would work for me? guessing I'm 205ish with gear.
3. Is there a conversion kit to add actual clickers to the forks or do I have to use a flat head every time I want to adjust?
4. Once I get the shock spring preload setup according top the pinned thread what would be a good base setting to start with on the shocks to make them a little less harsh in the rocks?
5. I've got the OHLINS TTX on this bike and it has a CSC adjustment that adjusts both comp and rebound if I'm reading the manual correct? But hell if I know where this little gem is on the shock and which way to adjust it? Out (loosen) for trails and In (tighten for MX)? I am guessing my bike is setup more for an MX track than the single track trails I ride which would be a good explanation on why it feels so tight. That and the dealer cranked my spring WAY down to set the ride sag, which I intend to fix as soon as I can find a spring.
6. Last question, what is the easiest way to set the shock spring preload? Doesn't look like I can get to it on the bike. Should I just remove the link and drop the spring? But with that said, how would you adjust it for race sag etc. or should I just set the spring preload to the suggested 8 - 10mm and ride it? I found this post, is that really what I have to go through haha: http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11494&highlight=where+to+buy+shock+spring

I'm sorry for so many newbie questions and genuinely appreciate any advice on getting the bike setup without having to read through 500 posts of suspension notes.
 
SingleTrackMind said:
Hi guys,
I'm a new GasGas owner and a bit lost as to where to begin tuning my suspension. I just picked up a 2011 Nambotin and love the bike. It's a blast to ride. The only complaint I have is that the suspension is obviously not set correctly for me. I can feel every pebble on the path and for Colorado that's a bad thing give the amount of large rocks I ride on the trail. Would anybody on here be willing to give me some quick and dirty answers to help me get started. I have searched and read several suspension related posts but would really love it if I could get some newbie responses to a handful of questions.
So here goes:
1. Are there any fork bleeders that will fit the MARZOCCHI 48mm Fork or is my only option to pull the caps and drill / tap them to fit some? I read a few posts and it looks like they just don't make one?
2. I'm 182lb without gear. What size shock spring should I look for and where can I buy it? Looks like from other posts a 5.4 would work for me? guessing I'm 205ish with gear.
3. Is there a conversion kit to add actual clickers to the forks or do I have to use a flat head every time I want to adjust?
4. Once I get the shock spring preload setup according top the pinned thread what would be a good base setting to start with on the shocks to make them a little less harsh in the rocks?
5. I've got the OHLINS TTX on this bike and it has a CSC adjustment that adjusts both comp and rebound if I'm reading the manual correct? But hell if I know where this little gem is on the shock and which way to adjust it? Out (loosen) for trails and In (tighten for MX)? I am guessing my bike is setup more for an MX track than the single track trails I ride which would be a good explanation on why it feels so tight. That and the dealer cranked my spring WAY down to set the ride sag, which I intend to fix as soon as I can find a spring.
6. Last question, what is the easiest way to set the shock spring preload? Doesn't look like I can get to it on the bike. Should I just remove the link and drop the spring? But with that said, how would you adjust it for race sag etc. or should I just set the spring preload to the suggested 8 - 10mm and ride it? I found this post, is that really what I have to go through haha: http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11494&highlight=where+to+buy+shock+spring

I'm sorry for so many newbie questions and genuinely appreciate any advice on getting the bike setup without having to read through 500 posts of suspension notes.
Click to expand...

Hi and welcome to the forum. I don't have any experience with the 48mm Zokes but I'll do my best to try and answer some of your questions.

1. No idea :)
2. I would suggest a respring all around. If anything its the forks which are undersprung from the factory. I believe they come with .42s and you will want around .46 for your weight. A 5.4 will put you in the range in the rear. Try and contact one of the suspension tuners on here and ask for their advice. I'm 75kgs no gear, 95kgs in gear using TTX front and rear in a 2010. I use .46 fronts and 5.4 rear.
3. The flat blade is the clicker. Not hard to carry a little screw driver.
4. Once you have the correct spring rate and set the sag 35/110mm less preload better (as per thread). You will want to tune the suspension with the clickers. Heaps of reading on this if you punch it in the google machine. If you still can't dial it in then you may require a revalve.
5. The CSC adjuster does affect overall flow through the shock. Out will make it plusher. In fiormer. Ohlins suggests using the stock clicker positions for comp and rebound and adjusting the csc first to get a plush but stable ride and then fine tuning the clickers. The csc is located on the bottom shaft of the shock. Its well hidden between the linkage and is really hard to get access to, especially on the trail. The suspension will take some time to break in if its a new bike. It will get softer with some ride time. How do you know the dealer has cranked down the preload a lot? You need to measure the length of the uncompressed spring, and then the compressed spring and and subtract them from eachother to get the preload. You can't just measure from the top of the shock body.
6. Changing the preload is as easy as putting the bike on the stand (so there is no weight pushing down on the spring). Loosen the top retainer above the spring (allen head clamp). Spray a little wd40 or something on the threads on the shock if need be. You should be able to reach in grab the spring itself and turn the whole spring by hand. Clockwise = more preload, anti clockwise is less.
 
I was told in another thread the bleeder holes are 4mm, so same Motion pro bleeders as 45mm Shiver or WP forks.
 
IME the 48 zoke will loosen way up after 10hrs and settle at 20hrs.Do alot more riding before doing anything major to the front.Dunno about ttx on the rear.
 
Les told me the seals have high stiction and are a big part of the stiff feel. Also, loosen and retorque your triple clamps. I'll bet they are too tight from the factory.
 
thank you guys sooo much

Jakobi, GMP, gasmonkey thank you guys for replying. BIG help.

I've been searching for springs in the US and had very little luck. I was just going to call Ohlins and ask them where I could find one.

I believe the dealer I purchased it from tightened the spring down enough to get the sag setting correct for my weight and the shock isn't riding in mid stroke.

I have 20+ hours on the bike now after my 4 day Moab trip and the past 4 rides. I am 99% sure I can swap springs and adjust the harsh ride away. I'm just a little intimidated by all the settings. I'm not familiar with suspension in general and even less with these manufacturers.

It looks like pulling this shock is going to be a whole lot of fun...

I think my bleeders on the KTM are 4mm. I am going to pull one of my KTM and see if it fits.

So for the flat blade clickers... I don't feel any "click" is that normal? Do you just count the turns?
 
Yep! Dave at STM is great. He's the man I went to for advice on spring rates and also purchased a few things through him. Spring and some seals etc. Big plus 1 for his time, knowledge, explainations, and for shipping parts to the other side of the world.

I can't comment on the clickers not feeling like they click. My brain tells me they should definately have a click to them. Maybe ask Dave his thoughts. I have had clickers that aren't audible but you can feel it.

Removing the shock isn't very intimidating. Remove the expansion chamber, loosen the top subframe bolts, remove the lower ones, loosen the air boot where it joins to the carb. Pivot the whole subframe up and you have heaps of access.
 
SingleTrackMind said:
J
It looks like pulling this shock is going to be a whole lot of fun...


So for the flat blade clickers... I don't feel any "click" is that normal? Do you just count the turns?
Click to expand...

pulling shock is not bad. gotta pull expansion chamber, tank, shrouds, seat, carb, remove wheel, remove top subframe bolts, loosen lower subframe bolts, remove lower links. remove shock bottom and top bolts, use strap to jack swingarm way up. pull shock up and out. sounds like a lot, but i've done it so many times, it's like 20 minutes... i have never been able to pull it out through the bottom as jakobi mentions.

if your clickers don't click, that's usually lack of nitrogen in the reservoir.
 
stainlesscycle said:
pulling shock is not bad. gotta pull expansion chamber, tank, shrouds, seat, carb, remove wheel, remove top subframe bolts, loosen lower subframe bolts, remove lower links. remove shock bottom and top bolts, use strap to jack swingarm way up. pull shock up and out. sounds like a lot, but i've done it so many times, it's like 20 minutes... i have never been able to pull it out through the bottom as jakobi mentions.

if your clickers don't click, that's usually lack of nitrogen in the reservoir.
Click to expand...

I left a few steps out too :) Seat and tank. I also have to unweight the swing arm to remove one pivot and roll the dog bones aside to undo the lower shock mount. From there I can pull it out.
 
I did it last service with just removing the pipe, silencer, pull rods, and rear wheel. It does not come out through the bottom, you have to move it down to twist it a bit then up and out to the side. It will work with the older linkage, if the swingarm is the same which I think it is, it should also work with the new '11 Race linkage as long as its unbolted and out of the way.
 
I will pull the shock next week. I ordered the springs and they are scheduled to arrive on Tuesday. I have to pull my Hyde skid plate / pipe guard to do this. That's a bit of a pain. But otherwise looks pretty strait forward. Thanks guys.

Is there anything different about the way the fork springs come out? Any gotchas? I've done the springs on my KTM.

So once the correct springs are installed can anybody suggest a starting point for the clickers (shock, CSC, and forks)?
 
Check this post out regarding the 48mm zokes. Very good writeup by SolidPerformance.

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11075

He noted:

-Compression clickers have a very faint or non-existent "click" from the adjusters (there should be 6 clicks per turn, 26 total clicks) Mine were barely noticeable on both sides.

I think he mentions the issue was that the adjusters were full of grease and once he serviced the fork they worked great.

His recommended starting settings:

330cc oil, clicker base at C20 R15 PFP 2 Turrns.

I'm at similar settings, but a little less oil and 1 turn on PFD.
 
SingleTrackMind said:
I will pull the shock next week. I ordered the springs and they are scheduled to arrive on Tuesday. I have to pull my Hyde skid plate / pipe guard to do this. That's a bit of a pain. But otherwise looks pretty strait forward. Thanks guys.

Is there anything different about the way the fork springs come out? Any gotchas? I've done the springs on my KTM.

So once the correct springs are installed can anybody suggest a starting point for the clickers (shock, CSC, and forks)?
Click to expand...

For the shock, 10mm preload on the spring. Then dial it in for 35mm static sag and if the rate is right you'll end up around 100-115mm race sag. All good there.

Not sure on the preload setup the CC zokes use. Same same you want as little as possible but not having the spring rattling around once assembled. around 20-30mm of static sag, 50-60mm of race sag.

Changing fork springs - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0dLM_IoIOQ
Up to 4:58 and then reassemble with fresh fluids. Again contact Dave at STM if you have any queries for recommended starting points or oil heights for the forks.
 
Last edited:
This is a CC fork much like a KYB. It uses an adjustable position for the spring seat on the cartridge to adjust preload, and a different collar if neccessary. No PVC spacer just dropped in. That video is good, but skip the parts relative to the seals. Once you remove the rebound adjuster you can remove the sealed cartridge. You will need a KYB cap wrench/rod holder as shown to open the fork, but you do not have to open the cartridge.
 
Ready to do the swap

I got my motion pro wrench in the mail yesterday and the springs I ordered from STM.
I have one stupid question. So when you say set the compression to 20 clicks does that mean to tighted the clicker all the way in and then count 20 clicks out or is it the other way around.

So this is my plan so far:
Forks - replace springs according to vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0dLM_IoIOQ
Remove the grease from the clickers so they click
330cc oil, clicker base at C20 R15 PFP 1 Turrns.


Rear Shock
Anybody have a starting point for the rear shock?

CSC - Settings?
Starting point for C & R

I've got the shock removal figured out. No worries there.
 
Haven't checked everything but for clicker settings all are from fully seated out a certain number. Be sure not to over tighten when seated (thats what all the manuals say).

Bump the thread again later and I'll get the Ohlins recommended starting points for the TTX Shock. I have the docs at home.
 
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