Photos, because I am a sharer... and need some help...Graphic!!!

That impeller cover looks like crap, just like what I pulled off my '12. Its tough to say but there could have been contact. The machining is very poor. Mine had a distinct line of wear on top of the machining. If the impeller had dark marks (aluminum) on the edges of the blades it was hitting.
 
so does it need to be replaced? is that going to let coolant flow around the impeller? ordering parts tomorrow :)
 
Nambo-T

10 hours, that would really suck. glad to see that the dealer got your sorted out. Does make one wonder which is the weak link in this setup.
 
If the impeller was hitting the cover something is dimmensionally wrong! This is what you should find out.
 
Did it crater because it hit the cover or did it hit the cover because something cratered: shaft or bearing or gear? Seems like too many variables to postulate a theory?
 
Mine did not fail, at around 20 hrs. I had a problem with a radiator and lost all my coolant. I pulled the top end down to check for damage and also pulled the pump cover. Then I found the plastic impeller with aluminum imbedded in the edges and the cover with a groove worn in it. Needless to say I was not happy. I got a new cover, and an alloy impeller from Checkpoint. This parts match had an interference fit as well. The new cover had NO secondary machine work but a smoother casting. Very inconsistant. I ended up buffing the cover smooth and taking .5mm off the rear of the rear of the alloy impeller for a perfect fit. This should be done with the primary side cover off so that you can turn the drive gear by hand while pushing in slightly to take up the axial play in the shaft. I've swapped impellers in three other GGs with the old style covers and never had this problem.

I looked at the pics and noticed he replaced the small pump and PV bearings with a metallic sealed type. I'd question this as they press in blind holes and receive splash oil from the outside only. He's a good engine guy though, perhaps he has a reason the pics don't show. It would not take much in the size of debri to foul that small open bearing, perhaps that is his logic. Just a thought.

The fit of the pump shaft is loose in the bearing inner race for ease of assembly. If the bearing seized or was jammed first, I would think the shaft would spin in the inner race. If it did it may have been blued or galled before totally grenading, look for this it may be a clue. Ask what he thinks the cause was.
 
My genuine PV bearings were all sealed units. My water pump also had the same grooving from contact being made, however my cover was first removed by the shop when they did my kick start shaft under warranty. They failed to use a paper gasket and just went with a thin smear of liquid gasket which reduced the clearance.
 
Thats funny, my '12 as well as all other GG motors I've seen use the open bearings. This kind of stuff really aggrevates me.
 

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Well, looks like this GG motors are kind of disposable...

still waiting on parts, the right parts. Got the new gear shaft in, it is a little different than the old one at first glance... but wait, there is an undocumented split bearing that goes there that will make everything OK! But wait, there is also now a difference in the splines so my old gears will not fit on this new shaft.

I got a chance to take a good look at a 2012 over the weekend, almost had me convinced to get another, until I returned to this news saturday evening.

I think now my optimism has been replaced by gloom, despair and agony on me.
 

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I re-did an early '12 transmission that had suffered a horrible indignity and found the parts fiche to be, umm, incorrect. The bearings on the end of the main and countershaft were not right and that cute little split cage roller was missing as well.

When you're this far into the motor, make sure you've got lots of pictures and good notes, because the continuous improvement to the bikes doesn't always make it to the technical writers and illustrators.
 
Andrew Cooksey is doing the work, and he probably has 100+ photos up on his site now. still doesn't make the motor go together any faster.
 
My bad luck continues...2 mismatched gear shafts! WTF

First the replacement main gear shaft didn't fit my gear set, then the replacement-replacement didn't fit either. Did something change in the motors or did I just get something screwed up from the factory, or is the factory screwing up now with shafts that haven't been though QC! this is getting scary... beginning to wonder if the 2013 is a good idea now :(
 
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They went from plain bearings to needle bearings in the trans in '02 I believe. Thats the difference I know of.
 
that would make sense if the shaft didn't fit the bearings, I think from talking to the builder it does, but the gears will not slip onto the splines, which is what I would think would remain the same - frustrating!!
 
So, this is getting phucking annoying...

finally got the motor back. apparently GG changed mfgs and had to swap out both main shaft and a full set of gears. so I finally get around to getting all the bits assembled and it in the frame, bolted in, swingarm on, everything ready to go but bleed the clutch. I mess with this thing for hours. i finally pull the friction plate like someone suggested here, to allow the caliper to bleed. Still no luck, pull the caliper off and notice that there is only about 3mm of pushrod sticking though the left side. I pull the Rekuse friction plate off and notice that the dial-a-gap bottoms on the clutch nut before it can adjust in enough to give the caliper piston enough rod to push on. i start digging, find out that now I can't get the hub out, it used to come right out after removing the nut.

I am guessing something more has changed than just the internal gears, the best that I can tell is my rod has shrunk about 5mm, i guess while sitting out for 3 months? I dont' have the original basket to test, but the rekluse one used to fit just fine.

What worries me is that the center hub is bound up and stuck on the shaft! I am going to see if I can use an AC puller the kind with the slots so that I can use two of the spring bolts to get it off. I am really worried GG has somehow put me in a spot where the new parts don't work in the old motor...

Anyone have any similar experience that they worked around? if the hub isn't phucked, my only options are to have a longer pushrod made or put a ball bering in the little hat do-dad that pushes the plate out?

Rob - bummed and depressed - in Katy.

Thinking maybe i will cancel that '13 that i was sending a check for on monday, buying out whatever labor they have in it, and going back to KTM. I really cannot believe this, really!

ps: attached some photos, anyone remember if their hub was this close to the end of the shaft?
 

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