Poor MPG?

[BIG TOOL]

Hi All,
I don't know if this is the right place to post this thread, or not...
I have a 2010 EC300 Nambo, It RIPS! But, it seems to get pretty bad fuel economy, especially when compared to my GASGAS 250's. I'm running a #178 main, #40 pilot, N1EF needle in the 2nd position from the top. Pretty average jetting from what I can tell. The float bowl doesn't appear to be leaking out the vents. It lust seem to use a lot of fuel.
Anybody else notice this?

 

[Neil E.]

Two things: Your float level might be too high and the N1EF needle is very rich on the bottom.

 

[eff]

My bike drank fuel until I switched to the LTR needle and set the float.

 

[thumperrider1]

Look/search the jetting section. Plenty of info there.

 

[Rick]

Sorry for geting off topic, BigTool, did that guy from Lodi by your old GasGas?

 

[andoman]

Ditto on what everyone else has said: especially float height.
Also, I highly recommend that you get your squish band modified. The stock squish is sloppy and makes for just enough inconsistency in the way the engine runs and feels that many have chased their tails jetting-wise when the sloppy squish was really a big part of the equation.

 

[Jakobi]

Ditto on what everyone else has said: especially float height.
Also, I highly recommend that you get your squish band modified. The stock squish is sloppy and makes for just enough inconsistency in the way the engine runs and feels that many have chased their tails jetting-wise when the sloppy squish was really a big part of the equation.

Plus 55 thousand..

I've spent many hours testing various needles back to back. Mainly chasing clean jetting and good economy.

My bike had a stock squish band of 2.6mm (epicly huge). A half a clip change was also reflected as a huge change. A change in weather made for huge changes. It was just too easy to go from burbling rich, to missing full power with the huge squish band. Once you set the squish the bike will give you much more feedback and let you accurately dial it in. The sock float heights seem a bit all over the place but its easily set. Ando has a good thread on it. I think the forward leaning angle of the carb means it needs to be set a little lower than normal.

 

[BIG TOOL]

Thank you to all who replied!
I'll start with the needle, I don't want to change the float height, it seems to be fine the way it is.
I might have the head cut, I just hate to butcher a pretty S3 head so soon!

Rick- no, the guy from Lodi did not buy my 250. But, we should get together sometime for a GASGAS ride. I missed the one at Stonyford...

Again, thanks everyone!

 

[Jakobi]

Thank you to all who replied!
I'll start with the needle, I don't want to change the float height, it seems to be fine the way it is.
I might have the head cut, I just hate to butcher a pretty S3 head so soon!

Rick- no, the guy from Lodi did not buy my 250. But, we should get together sometime for a GASGAS ride. I missed the one at Stonyford...

Again, thanks everyone!

Have a look at your base gasket stack. Consider getting a hold of the black insert. Its the same effect as having material shaved from the surface. It will bring you closer and can be matched pretty close with base gaskets.

 

[BIG TOOL]

So, in looking through my box of spares I found a CCK & DDK needle... Anyone have an idea what these might act like?

 

[andoman]

I found this thread EXTREMELY helpful in getting my '11 300 dialed in. There is some specific info on the CCK. Some very helpful graphs.

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9730&highlight=+cck++needle&page=3

Though I have not used it myself, I think I recall folks saying it delivered very usable power. Perhaps to the liking of a woods rider.
If I were at sea-level, I'm sure I would have given such a mellower needle a try. But at the 5000-7000 msl that I ride, the power is already mellowed just enough for me.