Quick question on reinstalling the front wheel

Koko

New member
I just replaced the front wheel bearings. I'm ready to reinstall the wheel tonight after work. I have a quick question. I'm torquing the axle nut on the brake rotor side, how do you hold the axle in place on the oppposite side. I don't have an allen key that big. Do the four clamp bolts hold it tight enough? Or should I crack open the wallet and go buy a huge allen key to hold the axle in place to tighten that bolt.

Koko
 
I just replaced the front wheel bearings. I'm ready to reinstall the wheel tonight after work. I have a quick question. I'm torquing the axle nut on the brake rotor side, how do you hold the axle in place on the oppposite side. I don't have an allen key that big. Do the four clamp bolts hold it tight enough? Or should I crack open the wallet and go buy a huge allen key to hold the axle in place to tighten that bolt.

Koko
I clamp down the 'big allen' side with the axle clamps- tighten the axle (38ft-lbs) then loosen the axle clamps back up for fork alignment. I do not tighten the axle clamp on the 'nut' side while torquing Hope that helps
 
I have an old lawn mower spark plug socket that is hex shaped on the ratchet side=fits perfect,I just hold socket by hand and tighten till axle spins,then torque right hand fork lug nuts,then torque axle nut,then torque brake side fork lug nuts.
Have also used the flat handle of a old yamaha spark plug wrench, a file, another wrench that fits in there just so,etc,etc,etc.
"use whats on hand"
Hope this steers you in right direction!
 
Thats a good procedure. After torquing the allen bolt, I spin the wheel and grab the brake. While holding the brake I grab the right side fork and pull it in and out so the clamp moves on the axel. I release it and it finds its natural position. Torque clamps at this point.

I also ditch the axel pull. The axel wall is thin enough that it can be distorted from tightening the wedge bolt in the axel pull. This will make the axel out of round and not allow proper alignment. If you leave it loose it may fall out. I suppose it can be bonded with a stud mount compound if you really feel you need it but to me its no big loss.
 
Wow..seriously glad I asked. I never even thought about the alignment of the forks. I just assumed as I clamped down the pinch bolts it would pull the forks in the right alignment.
 
I also ditch the axel pull. The axel wall is thin enough that it can be distorted from tightening the wedge bolt in the axel pull. This will make the axel out of round and not allow proper alignment. If you leave it loose it may fall out. I suppose it can be bonded with a stud mount compound if you really feel you need it but to me its no big loss.

You're referring to the piece at the end of the axle on the opposite side of the rotor ? You just leave the axle hole open ?
 

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You're referring to the piece at the end of the axle on the opposite side of the rotor ? You just leave the axle hole open ?

Not all bike have the axle pull handle on them....My 2010 doesn't.

I didn't go in to detail but did mention to release the axle clamp and align forks
 
tighten right side pinches
tighten axle nut
loosen right side pinches
tighten left side pinches
make sure right fork can move back and forth on axle
spin wheel, hold brake.
while holding front brake, compress forks as far as you can.
while compressed, tighten right pinches.

feel how nice your front end is, and go for a ride.
 
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Yep! Without too much detail the jist is to do up the brake disc side until it all pulls together snug (which may mean tightening the pinch bolts on the other side). Then tighten brake side pinch and release the other side ensuring the axel clamp floats on the axel and allows the fork to run true (few methods of doing this), before tightening those pinch bolts.

For some reason this used to confuse me almost every time I had the wheel off and I'd have to find a cheat sheet to remember the right way. All makes sense when you really think about it though.
 
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