Rebuild

Interesting, I didn't know that. I got those from Wiseco's website, if I recall. By the way, before tearing into it, I highly recommend getting one of these for the rebuild. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

It's that or use a standard 13mm wrench and put a half inch drive torque wrench in the open end at a right angle to the wrench to torque the cylinder down. There are two nuts that reside behind the power valve covers, one on each side. This tool will make it much easier. Using it at a right angle negates the need to do math to get the proper torque specs with the adapter.


Wiseco makes ProX pistons. They are generally OEM replacements. Cast some are forged but I've never seen one. I've used ProX several times with no issue. In performance bikes though I do forged Wiseco.

Go info about that wrench. Thanks. Little tricks like this are great.
 
I am getting ready to do a top end on my new to me EC200. Wossner B kit on the way...I keep reading about needle bearing width. Wossner rep had no idea what I was talking about for this. Do I need anything more than the kit for this if I am just swapping out piston and rings?
 
Interesting, I didn't know that. I got those from Wiseco's website, if I recall. By the way, before tearing into it, I highly recommend getting one of these for the rebuild. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

It's that or use a standard 13mm wrench and put a half inch drive torque wrench in the open end at a right angle to the wrench to torque the cylinder down. There are two nuts that reside behind the power valve covers, one on each side. This tool will make it much easier. Using it at a right angle negates the need to do math to get the proper torque specs with the adapter.

So my little tool came in. I assume I need to use it with a beam style torque wrench versus a clicker? And what math do I do to allow for the extra 2"?

What is the torque spec for the head and cylinder?

I've build countless motors (small block v8's) with a finally tuned hand for torquing manifold bolts. If you've ever worked on a 350 you know what I'm talking about.
 
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So my little tool came in. I assume I need to use it with a beam style torque wrench versus a clicker? And what math do I do to allow for the extra 2"?

What is the torque spec for the head and cylinder?

I've build countless motors (small block v8's) with a finally tuned hand for torquing manifold bolts. If you've ever worked on a 350 you know what I'm talking about.

Clicker is fine, just make sure you are at 90* and no math is required. If you really want to do the math, click here. For fun, put the value A at 90, and you get no deviation. And if you set value A at 45, it's a 7.5% difference in torque values. Basically, don't sweat it too much, but try to keep it as close to 90* as possible.
 
Well apparently the Wiseco is a B.



What does this mean?



Also which base gasket should I use? I want it stock should I measure the one that came out?

Edit. .56 came out. .5 going in assuming there is swelling.
 
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Damnit man!!! I always do something bone headed. This time i dropped the stupid nut that holds the power valve rod on down the hole. How do I access where it went? I pulled the clutch cover off. I can't see it do I have to pull the cylinder back off?

***edit***

pulled the clutch cover and clutch. Got the nut. releaved. I'll be inspecting my clutch now.:rolleyes:
 
I would not be concerned with the "390" marking. The crack around the skirt of the jug might perk my interest.
 
New:
Wheel bearings
Piston
Reeds (dual stage)
Rim strips
Tires
Tubes
Grips
Air filter
Replaced a couple broken spokes (it'll need re-laced this winter)

Checked/lubed:
Linkage bearings
Head bearings
Shock rebuilt and charged (really nasty)
Forks rebuild (new seals and bushings)
Carb cleaned
New brake fluid
New clutch fluid
Fixing dents in the pipes the Messico is fixed only "OK" i will work on the gnarly I think thats the one I'll run. But I'll test them both.

Doing a "test & tune" tuesday.
 
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Let me know if you want to get rid of that Messico! Good work on the bike. We should be able to keep these gassers running for a while.
 
Looking good! I pretty much did the same things to my '01 XC 200 that I bought back in August with the addition of new rotors and a rebuild of the front brake Hyd's, as well.

The FMF Gnarly on my bike is dented up pretty badly (Some might even say smashed). I found a new on on fleabay for a little over $200 US. I've got a torch and I'll experiment with trying fix the old one for a spare.

Thanks for posting the rebuild of your bike. I'm sure you're going to enjoy riding it.

RB
 
One thing I don't like is I've put in 1000ml of oil amd it doesn't show up on the sight glass. I then over filled it on purpose then drained it out to see if I could see it. So i put in 1000ml again. I'll check it after the first heat cycle.
 
Looking good! I pretty much did the same things to my '01 XC 200 that I bought back in August with the addition of new rotors and a rebuild of the front brake Hyd's, as well.



The FMF Gnarly on my bike is dented up pretty badly (Some might even say smashed). I found a new on on fleabay for a little over $200 US. I've got a torch and I'll experiment with trying fix the old one for a spare.



Thanks for posting the rebuild of your bike. I'm sure you're going to enjoy riding it.



RB


If you are in the states you could send your pipe to Pacific Crest Pipe Repair and have it fixed for $75. I have sent a few pipes to them and they come back locking as good as new.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
So I'm trying to confirm, this bike may be a "Six Days". It has the WP 50mm Extreme forks. I've been told a six days will have a more aggressive cdi, mx head and higher compression piston. Is there anyway I can confirm this?
 
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