SpeedyManiac
New member
Hey guys,
How's the durability of the rekluse? Does it fry clutch plates faster?
How's the durability of the rekluse? Does it fry clutch plates faster?
Rekluse durability
- Thread starter SpeedyManiac
- Start date
SpeedyManiac
New member
I'm thinking about using one at the ISDE to help with fatigue, but I just want to make sure the reliability is there. Has anyone torture tested a Z-start for extended riding periods?
I have run a Rekluse auto clutch in my ’01 XC300 and my ’06 EC300.
I installed the Rekluse in my ’01 XC300 at 103 hours and 1350 miles. It now has 415 hours and 5300 miles of technical trail riding. That is 300+ hours and it still has the original plates. The Rekluse component wear is negligible and well within their specs. The clutch gets well used as many different family members and friends ride my ’01 XC300.
.
After much trial and experimentation, here is what I found to be the key factors to good Rekluse performance and long clutch life…
1) run 10 tungsten carbide balls (This is updated since my Rekluse install article). It makes for a firmer clutch engage and less slip.
2) Set the installed gap correctly and then verify/adjust the installed gap after break-in and periodically thereafter. The installed gap changes measurably during break-in and very little there after that if everything is set up correctly.
3) Setting the proper clutch engage speed. This includes getting a good consistent low RPM idle. If you idle erratically or too high it will make proper low speed engagement a problem. While a higher engage speed sounds like the ticket to going fast, the clutch will slip way too much in the technical situations.
For install details…
http://www.gasgasrider.org/html/rekluse__install.html
Please note that I run AmsOil Formula 4 stroke 0W-40, which was the best oil I found for GasGas clutch operation. With other oils, your mileage may differ.
I installed the Rekluse in my ’01 XC300 at 103 hours and 1350 miles. It now has 415 hours and 5300 miles of technical trail riding. That is 300+ hours and it still has the original plates. The Rekluse component wear is negligible and well within their specs. The clutch gets well used as many different family members and friends ride my ’01 XC300.
.
After much trial and experimentation, here is what I found to be the key factors to good Rekluse performance and long clutch life…
1) run 10 tungsten carbide balls (This is updated since my Rekluse install article). It makes for a firmer clutch engage and less slip.
2) Set the installed gap correctly and then verify/adjust the installed gap after break-in and periodically thereafter. The installed gap changes measurably during break-in and very little there after that if everything is set up correctly.
3) Setting the proper clutch engage speed. This includes getting a good consistent low RPM idle. If you idle erratically or too high it will make proper low speed engagement a problem. While a higher engage speed sounds like the ticket to going fast, the clutch will slip way too much in the technical situations.
For install details…
http://www.gasgasrider.org/html/rekluse__install.html
Please note that I run AmsOil Formula 4 stroke 0W-40, which was the best oil I found for GasGas clutch operation. With other oils, your mileage may differ.
SpeedyManiac
New member
How long does it take to adjust the gap? My issue is I'm probably renting a bike at the ISDE this year and only have a few hours to get the bike broken in and set up for the race. After that we have a 10 minute work period in the morning and 15 minutes at the end of the day for all maintenance.
I like the idea of not having to use the clutch all day, but not at the price of a potential mechanical failure.
I like the idea of not having to use the clutch all day, but not at the price of a potential mechanical failure.
SpeedyManiac
New member
The plan would be to install it on my bike here, get comfortable with it, then bring it with me when I head to Greece in late August.
I'm thinking of switching to one for riding around BC since the riding is super technical. I don't have troubles using the lever, but when you're riding for 3-6 hours every little thing helps to keep me riding at my best.
I'm thinking of switching to one for riding around BC since the riding is super technical. I don't have troubles using the lever, but when you're riding for 3-6 hours every little thing helps to keep me riding at my best.
If you are going to run it at home first and get familiar with it then it makes more sense to use it. Using it at home will allow you to best judge your ISDE use.
If you do a lot of technical riding the Rekluse makes things so much easier and smoother. The more fatigued you are the more it helps.
If you do a lot of technical riding the Rekluse makes things so much easier and smoother. The more fatigued you are the more it helps.
d2w
New member
Regarding an in-field/time limited maintenance (say to adjust the gap), I'd be "concerned"; it's fairly quick to get access to the clutch via the side access cover, but there are a number (16?) of very small (black!) TORX screws to remove. Then you have to *** very carefully *** remove the plate containing the (32?) throw-out balls, then the adjustment spring(s) and washer(s), then you can adjust the gap by way of replacing for thicker driver and/or friction plates. IMO, there's a lot of tiny parts which could be dropped into the engine (they instructions strongly suggest that you pack any openings with rags) or into the dirt!
I'm sure you could do it "on trail" if you've got the time to be careful, but it certianly wouldn't be something I'd attempt knowing I've only got 10-15 minutes.
I guess the only thing to do would be to time yourself prior to the race.
And regarding the B.C. ride; Mike Fetterer said he'd be happy to lead a fast group through his favourite trails around Summerland. I'm looking forward to hearing the post-ride stories.
Dale
I'm sure you could do it "on trail" if you've got the time to be careful, but it certianly wouldn't be something I'd attempt knowing I've only got 10-15 minutes.
I guess the only thing to do would be to time yourself prior to the race.
And regarding the B.C. ride; Mike Fetterer said he'd be happy to lead a fast group through his favourite trails around Summerland. I'm looking forward to hearing the post-ride stories.
Dale
SpeedyManiac
New member
That's a little much to bring an engine. One of my buddies has been using a rekluse for the past year and is very impressed by it. He inspected it in the fall after a summer of riding and everything was perfect. I think I might buy one to use around here then bring it with me to Greece (still provided I qualify) and give it a try.
Once the clutch is broken in and the gap re-adjusted after break-in, it changes very little. I check the gap on mine about once every 50 hours and it stays within 0.001" of the previous measurement.
If you get it adjusted after a hard 3-4 hour break-in on your set-up day, it should last the full event. I would also adjust the gap to low end of spec to give yourself margin during the event.
If you get it adjusted after a hard 3-4 hour break-in on your set-up day, it should last the full event. I would also adjust the gap to low end of spec to give yourself margin during the event.
I rode with a rekluse for two full seasons. When I qualified for Chile, I pulled the clutch out and put in the standard clutch. Even though, in two seasons and three different bikes, I never once had to readjust the auto clutch, I felt there was absolutely no way I could chance having something go wrong and have to adjust it mid-race. 15 minutes is just not enough time. I still haven't put the clutch back in. I bought a 280 trials bike last year. There is almost no way to do the technicle trials moves without complete feel. Does an auto clutch make riding easier? Yes, but in Chile, I never felt at any disadvantage to having a standard clutch. On a few of the larger, rock filled, switch back filled mountains, I would have liked it, but learned to live without it. Just make sure your on a 250 or 300 and lug away. I only stalled my bike maybe 2 times in six days of riding. It's your call, your probably safe either way.
Brian
Brian
SpeedyManiac
New member
I'm not worried about it as far as for technical riding, I'm just thinking from a fatigue point of view it might be nice. That and there's talk of bringing extreme tests to the ISDE.
SpeedyManiac
New member
It's just a rumour so far I think. A couple buddies of mine who are also trying to go (well, 2 are going as trophy team members, the other is waiting on a club team like me) heard about this a little while ago. I hope they do add them as it would help the Canadians a lot. We have lots of technical riding up here, but we suck at grass track moto tests.
Regardless of the extreme tests, I hear Greece is a lot more rocky and the trails are more technical than Chile which should suit me better. I just need to make my bike holds up for six days!
Regardless of the extreme tests, I hear Greece is a lot more rocky and the trails are more technical than Chile which should suit me better. I just need to make my bike holds up for six days!
I echo everything Eric K had to say. It is very easy to work on and once you get the initial set-up to where you want it is very robust. I kept my clutch lever (as opposed to a LH Brake) on and fan it occasionally when lugging. For long days on uber technical riding it is the bomb. Only time I'd say it isn't an advantage is when I'm riding sand dunes. Hopefully they get the newest pro model going for the GG....a definite step up from the z-start. Make sure you locktite the torx bolts on the outside plate!
Jim Cook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
I have been doing my own long range test of the Rekluse in my '06 300. The extra low end torque of the 300 (over the 250) created more "Rekluse needs", which really became apparent when I started testing it with a trials tire. (With a trials tire, you sort of "roll on the throttle", feel the tire hook up, and then gas it hard. As it is set up per the instructions, the Rekluse likes to have quick engine revs to hook up completely. Running 10 tungsten balls and 20 steel balls in the Rekluse took care of this, and as an added benefit, I can now regain my engine braking much more quickly, and at lower rpms, on steep downhills. )
The only real problem that I had riding with the Rekluse, was when starting off up the side of a steep climb (no momentum) with the trials tire. My bike would wheelie to easily. A change to lower gearing from my 13/49 made this a non-problem.
Then, just as I thought I was finished with my long range test, I decided to try Eric's suggested Amsoil 0w40 4-stroke synthetic engine oil in my transmission.
Wow! What a difference!
The bike now starts in gear as easily as when it's in neutral, there is no groaning from the clutch when it is forced to slip by my lazy shifting foot and heavy throttle hand. and the bike idles fantastically. There is no drag at all, once the engine is warmed completely.
I still use the Shell Rotella 4w40 synthetic oil in my other bikes, but with a Rekluse in my Gasser, I'll stick with the Amsoil.
Thanks again for the great suggestions, Eric!
Good Riding and Wrenching to You All!
Jim
The only real problem that I had riding with the Rekluse, was when starting off up the side of a steep climb (no momentum) with the trials tire. My bike would wheelie to easily. A change to lower gearing from my 13/49 made this a non-problem.
Then, just as I thought I was finished with my long range test, I decided to try Eric's suggested Amsoil 0w40 4-stroke synthetic engine oil in my transmission.
Wow! What a difference!
The bike now starts in gear as easily as when it's in neutral, there is no groaning from the clutch when it is forced to slip by my lazy shifting foot and heavy throttle hand. and the bike idles fantastically. There is no drag at all, once the engine is warmed completely.
I still use the Shell Rotella 4w40 synthetic oil in my other bikes, but with a Rekluse in my Gasser, I'll stick with the Amsoil.
Thanks again for the great suggestions, Eric!
Good Riding and Wrenching to You All!
Jim
