Securing a bike in the back of a pickup

I'm keen to hear how..

The chock/brace makes everything rigid. The only way you will a drop in tension is if the strap loosens, or the tyre slides sideways. The use of the chock also transfers more pressure into the tyre spreading the load/footprint reducing slippage.

On the contrary, without a brace an impact can result in the fork compressing and creating reduced tension on the tie downs, which may offer an opportunity for the front to unload and also move.

Correct me if I'm wrong..

Technically, there is more tension on the tie-downs when you don't use a fork support. Only because you can pull the tie downs down further.
The only thing acting on the tie downs to create tension is the reaction from the fork springs, which follows F = -kx. Where x is extension, or in this case compression.
So if you pull the tie down further, which compresses the fork more, then there is a greater reaction force on the tie down, by sinθ.

I still use a fork support though. I feel not using a fork support means you have to be more careful when tying the bike down, as you have to pull the tie downs further into the fork stroke to allow for any rocking which might temporarily compress the forks further than they are tied which may allow the tie downs to pop off. Ideally his can't happen if you use carabiners and soft loop tie downs though.

Basically, as long as you're careful when you tie down the bike, it doesn't really matter how you tie it down.
 
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This is a chock
pv01.jpg

This is a fork support/brace
attachment.php


I confused them in my previous port, which is now correct to what I was trying to say:p
 
Thanks Noobi! The physics don't lie! The tension is variable depending on how deep you pull the fork into the stroke, and one thing I'm not fond of is compressing the forks for any real period of time.

You've summed it up nicely too! Either way will work, and more importantly than where/how you tie down is taking the time to check that its stable, and monitoring it while in transit.
 
I like the ProTaper Tiedowns, the beaner has a nice swivel.

tie_down_1.jpg


Funny we don't use chocks in a pick-up bed, but I like them on my trailer since the trailer bounces more then a truck bed...or Utes what you fellas call 'em in that Oz-Kiwi speak... :D

The girlfriend's old KX100 going to its' new owner...

995588_10152153160474630_245701659_n.jpg


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=270999459745429
 
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I'm keen to hear how.. Correct me if I'm wrong..

Point he is making is the preloaded tension of the forks will keep the tie downs tight.
You will have constant tension.If you chock the wheel you will only have the tension of how much the strap has stretched.Very common for that buckle to slip a bit.You just can't keep it as tight as preloading the forks.Seems you should be able to.The chock will take pressure off the fork seals tho.

In a pickup 1 bike.Lock front wheel in driver side forward corner.As one early poster mentioned you will lose that desired angle in that corner.You can get enough of it back by leaning the bike a bit inside.Take another tie down and go from the outside bar to the back corner of the bed on the drivers side.Swing the rear end over into same corner and shut the gate if you can.This will give you a good angle of lean to the inside.Won't block your view in the blind spot yet you can still see the bike in the rear view and side mirror.
Take the tails of your tie downs and make a half hitch at the buckle.This will keep the strap tight if the buckle slips.Take the rest of the tail and go over the bar and through the loop and back over the bar with a loose clove hitch.This will keep the hook from bouncing off the bar if you hit a pot hole or whatever.

How you put your tie down hooks on matters.Always from the front.This keeps the tie down hanging on the bar if it loosens.If hooked from the back they come off easier.When you hook into your bed loops same thing, how you hook it matters
Two bikes,either turn both wheels into the corners and repeat the above,with the difference being you take both back wheel and slide them together in the middle. Run a strap from rear corners through the wheels and around once and your set.
You can also turn the front wheels into eachother and kick yhe rear wheels into the rear corners and shut the gate.In this case you can use a loose piece of line and loosely tie yhe bars of both bikes together.If a tie down fails the other bike takes the load.


Strategically throw your gear bags,coolers and what not in the back and those bikes aren't going anywhere.

Wheel chocks are pretty much a joke.Bed mounted shoes are a little better.
If you gotta have a chock in there.Make it yourself.
You don't wanna be "that guy".
 
Wheel chocks are pretty much a joke.Bed mounted shoes are a little better.
If you gotta have a chock in there.Make it yourself.
You don't wanna be "that guy".

Think there is a lost in translation or something..

I always called these chocks. Used them for years and years...never lost a bike, even hauling heavy ADV style bikes. Not sure why you think they are a joke :confused: Maybe we are thinking of two different things?

0001396_surface-mount-motorcycle-wheel-chock.jpeg



Heck, screw chocks, shoes, straps all together...

Lock-n-Load

lock-n-load-strapless-motocross-transport-system.jpg
 
I'm keen to hear how..

The chock/brace makes everything rigid. The only way you will a drop in tension is if the strap loosens, or the tyre slides sideways. The use of the chock also transfers more pressure into the tyre spreading the load/footprint reducing slippage.

On the contrary, without a brace an impact can result in the fork compressing and creating reduced tension on the tie downs, which may offer an opportunity for the front to unload and also move.

Correct me if I'm wrong..

On a blocked bike you only really have the compression of the front tire that provides the effective tension.
On an unblocked bike that has the forks compressed part way into the progression curve, there is enough tension on the straps plus resistance to more compression from road bumps.

The most important thing though for all those people out there who believe that blocking the forks saves forks seals - IT DOESN'T!!!!
 
Thanks for all the replies folks, really is much appreciated.

Today I loaded my bike into the back of my pickup and took it to ride with some friends at a turn track. Awesome if very tough morning

I put 2 ratchet straps from the bars to attachment points at the front (cab end) of the bed. Unfortunately the bed isn't long enough to close the tailgate with the bike in straight. I need to work out a strapping attachment points for putting the bike diagonally
I've formed an opinion on blocking the forks.

It's not about stress on the seals or any of that kind of stuff, it's about removing dynamic forces from the equation

While driving today with the bike in the bed I was able to watch it. When going over a speed bump or similar I could see the suspension compress just like it would if riding it. This causes the straps to go loose during the compression. This could cause wear at the strapping points (I had hooks onto the bars, not a perfect solution and one I will improve) or worse the hook could jump off (I had this happen once on my CBR600 while trailering it).

My thought is that by blocking the forks means they become static and therefore can't compress/bounce so reducing wear at the attachment points and significantly reducing the chance of a attachment point becoming unattached




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You're Welcome!

Who knew there would be so much arguing over how to secure a bike, right!? :p


I really like those soft tie ProTaper straps (or similar) with the spinner carabiner, solves most of the issues you are referring to.

Have seen blocking the fork...have those go flying out if they aren't secured in there properly thus loosing the bike. Had a bud who swears by those things flip his bike off the trailer and drag it for a bit. Brand new plastics and graphics too... ha ha!

I don't run the fork blocks...yawl can judge me if you will. :D
 
There are many different ways to haul/load bikes. There is no single correct way of doing so.
Here is a couple of ways that I do it and the type of "chocks" that I use when hauling both my gassers in the truck.
 

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This is crazy... I have decided I am just going to lie my bike down in the back of truck from now on!!!!
;-)


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Today I loaded my bike into the back of my pickup and took it to ride with some friends at a turn track. Awesome if very tough morning

Slight thread-jack...but that reply begs some pictures and a ride report posted in the correct sub-forum :cool:

And Stu...LOL.
 
This is crazy... I have decided I am just going to lie my bike down in the back of truck from now on!!!!
;-)
LOL ... maybe upside down on the handlebars/rear fender will work best. Should make it easier to clean and lube the shock linkage! :cool:
 
Thanks for all the replies folks, really is much appreciated.

Today I loaded my bike into the back of my pickup and took it to ride with some friends at a turn track. Awesome if very tough morning

I put 2 ratchet straps from the bars to attachment points at the front (cab end) of the bed. Unfortunately the bed isn't long enough to close the tailgate with the bike in straight. I need to work out a strapping attachment points for putting the bike diagonally
I've formed an opinion on blocking the forks.

It's not about stress on the seals or any of that kind of stuff, it's about removing dynamic forces from the equation

While driving today with the bike in the bed I was able to watch it. When going over a speed bump or similar I could see the suspension compress just like it would if riding it. This causes the straps to go loose during the compression. This could cause wear at the strapping points (I had hooks onto the bars, not a perfect solution and one I will improve) or worse the hook could jump off (I had this happen once on my CBR600 while trailering it).

My thought is that by blocking the forks means they become static and therefore can't compress/bounce so reducing wear at the attachment points and significantly reducing the chance of a attachment point becoming unattached




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If your bike suspension was compressing in the back of the truck by going over speed bump, then you didn't preload it enough.
 
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