Shim stack for woods racing 45 marzocchis

[sam097]

Here is what came out of my 05 EC250.
Base Valve Mod LH Stock RH(to my knowledge)
13 x .2 13 x .1
14 x .2 15 x .1
15 x .2 17 x .1
16 x .2 19 x .1
17 x .1 21 x .15
19 x .1 23 x .15 X3
11 x .1 valve
21 x .1 23 x .1 X4
valve nut
22 x .3
nut

Mid valve Mod Cant find stock info
nut
22 x .3
valve
21 x .1
19 x .1
17 x .1
15 x .1

Im a good C/entry level B rider hoping to get up to B speeds this year. I've raced this bike one time since I got it and the suspension felt pretty good but im coming off a first gen aluminum frame Honda MX bike so obviously it was a night and day difference. It will be used as a woods racing bike. Do any of you suspension experts see anything that sticks out to you in this stack that I might want to change? I plan on improving this year and want the bike to be ready for the faster speeds on the trail. Conditions are mostly wet damp PA woods. Slick mud with lots of rocks roots logs creeks ruts. No sand. I have some knowledge of this stuff but im still learning. Any help or input is appreciated. My shock has an mx-tech card on it so they may have done the forks also. Thanks!

 

[Jim Cook]

Those forks came valved harsh from the factory.
Saying that, I'll also say that I love those forks, once they've been valved properly for the application and conditions you describe (very similar to my ride conditions).

I'm not much on the Race Tech or ProAction valving for those forks, but I've been pretty happy with two particular suspension experts, who work on them quite often.
I would suggest that you speak with Les Tinius of LTR in Washington, or Drew Smith of Works Enduro Rider in New Jersey. Both know what it takes to make them wonderful for you, and both are easy to speak with.
I don't know, but maybe one of them will either assist you with info, or would build your valve stack for you, and let you do all the rest of the work.

 

[sam097]

I've seen a lot of good LTR reviews on here for shivers. There may not be anything wrong with my stack since it felt pretty good. Wanting to know if anything sticks out or looks odd...does this look like it had some thought behind it or was it a shot in the dark by someone with my caliber of knowledge. I'm not sure if I understand "free bleed" but I do know that the 21 x .1 does not completely cover the piston holes. A 22 would cover it. Stock has a 23 listed so these did not come from the factory with free bleed??? Is free bleed good for racing or good for weekend trail cruising? The 11 crossover between the 21 and the 19 would take away some of the harshness on slow impacts, correct? Looks to me that this has been softened up for slow impacts and the high speed comp stiffened slightly with the .20mm thick shims instead of the .10mm...then again im not sure what im looking at.

 

[Jim Cook]

I've seen a lot of good LTR reviews on here for shivers. There may not be anything wrong with my stack since it felt pretty good. Wanting to know if anything sticks out or looks odd...does this look like it had some thought behind it or was it a shot in the dark by someone with my caliber of knowledge. I'm not sure if I understand "free bleed" but I do know that the 21 x .1 does not completely cover the piston holes. A 22 would cover it. Stock has a 23 listed so these did not come from the factory with free bleed??? Is free bleed good for racing or good for weekend trail cruising? The 11 crossover between the 21 and the 19 would take away some of the harshness on slow impacts, correct? Looks to me that this has been softened up for slow impacts and the high speed comp stiffened slightly with the .20mm thick shims instead of the .10mm...then again im not sure what im looking at.

I wish I could supply you with hard information. However, on my suspension I get the experts to valve mine, and then just do my own service from then on. The system has been working for me for a long time.

Good Luck and Good Riding!
Jim

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