Spooge

Upyourkiltbatman

New member
Ok there's a lot of talk about spooge on this forum ,coming from four strokes I only just found out what this is , but my bike shows no sign whatsoever ,the bike smokes a bit on start up but not much after , I mix about 110 ml to a gallon ,think that's about right ? Maybe I could jet it a bit better as the top end / powerband seems quite light ,not a big hit and not much faster than my mates husqvarna txe 250 , I thought I would destroy it on the 300 r
 
Ok there's a lot of talk about spooge on this forum ,coming from four strokes I only just found out what this is , but my bike shows no sign whatsoever ,the bike smokes a bit on start up but not much after , I mix about 110 ml to a gallon ,think that's about right ? Maybe I could jet it a bit better as the top end / powerband seems quite light ,not a big hit and not much faster than my mates husqvarna txe 250 , I thought I would destroy it on the 300 r

Not sure what year you are talking about. Also, you mean TXC250?

You should have some oil residue (spooge) on the end of your muffler. If you use Synthetic oil, you should use 50:1 or 2.56 ounces per gallon (76ml).

Something is drastically wrong if a 300 2 stroke isn't faster than a TXC250. I should know because I have 2013 TXC310R and my 300 Gas Gas obliterates it, let alone a TXC250.

My Gas 300 is a rocket and will rip your arms off if you are not paying attention.
 
Roger that. My EC250 feels stronger than both my mates 350exc and FE390, in the upper rpm. Obviously no where near as linear in its delivery which only adds to the stronger feeling.

I'd suggest you review your jetting specs (including float height) before going too much further. Double check fuel/oil ratios, and also install a filter between the tank and carb.
 
Mine is a 2011 300 r , the bike I was up against was a husqvarna txe 250 it's the xc or light version four stroke Ok my mate must weight about 10 kilos lighter than me so not sure . I've only had the bike for a couple of weeks and not looked at the carb set up , but what would be a good baseline setting , and I've just noticed the air box doesn't seal around the carb as good as it could so this might help , ordered a new air box connector .
 
175 main. 40-42 pilot. Nedw needle in the 2nd or 3 rd clip depending on weather. Float level should be set around 7-8 mm


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
GGDreamer, oh, it's quite possible he has little to no spooge. The end of my tailpipe is nice and dry and dusty, nothing drools out the front. Of course I only have a little over 10K miles (yes, 10 thousand) so I guess that could change as she breaks in :).

The ratio is 28:1 Amsoil Dominator (ran RedLine for a while, no spooge, just too expensive!) ...2004 EC 300. I changed the O'rings because I thought I might have had a leak. That is all I've done to the engine.

Ed
 
Ok. Had the carb off and realised the inlet rubber was rubbish and never sealed properly so this may have caused it to be lean inside the jets are 175 main 40 pilot and the needle was on the top clip , I moved the needle clip to the second from top put it all back together now I can't start it tried to bump it with no joy , any ideas ?
 
Thing is it was a good starter before I took the carb apart and changed the clip position , would it make this hard to start just by changing one notch on the needle ?
 
Ok , had to tow the bike with the van today and once it started it ran ok but not a stable at the bottom and won't tick over no matter how much I screw the idle in , so I will be putting the clip back on the top , don't know how every one else can shuffle the clip about without problems , everyone's saying ditch that standard needle , I need to know what one to get and what I will have to do to make it work and what are the benefits , cheers
 
I use the NEDW needle. It is a needle from a Suzuki 2006 rm250. Leave the rest of the jets stock for starters and see what you get


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Ok , hare and hounds today bike was going ok , still feel like the powers down a bit , the powerband and top end just don't seem as fast I expected , I found myself havin to change down a couple of times on the long up hills , need some reference to how fast these 300 are compared to other bikes , as I don't know if that's the bikes power or if I need to rebuild/ rejet or some thing , any help apretiated before I start spending
 
I agree with wa_ndro....my EC300 is faster than my FSE 450....does not mean I can ride it much faster but in a drag race it wins. The 450 is easier to ride even though MUCH heavier, go figure!

As to how fast the 300 is compared to other bikes....., well, at my house I have a DR 350, a Husky 510 4 stroke, a 500 Husky 2 stroke, a 390 Husky 2 stroke and a FSE 450 GG.........Let's just say that none of those bikes will take my Ting Ting on a dirt road or trail. Maybe in a drag race on dry pavement....maybe. On the dirt roads or trails, Ting Ting puts them all in their place. The FSE is easier to ride but not easier to ride FAST. It's odd.

I hope you get your bike sorted out, it should be "fast" when jetted properly and running properly. Fast by all standards based on my experience, assuming you get traction, which is something the Husky's have a problem with :)

We've had a lot of bikes, none better, none I loved more (except maybe Bunny) than the GG's

Ed
 
Thanks for the reply , think I will do the top end on her then a bit of jetting , ordered a new needle ( n3eg ) and i 180 main , see what happens then , I love the bike on technical enduro bits but the last race was wide open and on some of the climbs and uphill straights I was changing into top the havin to change back down , also I've got a little misfire at the very top end .?
 
Thanks for the reply , think I will do the top end on her then a bit of jetting , ordered a new needle ( n3eg ) and i 180 main , see what happens then , I love the bike on technical enduro bits but the last race was wide open and on some of the climbs and uphill straights I was changing into top the havin to change back down , also I've got a little misfire at the very top end .?

Before you go chasing the jetting around in circles, take the time to inspect the carb model. If its an AS2 it will have a shallow bowl, and a flat metal cap. If its an AS1 it will have a deep bowl and round threaded cap. Both carbs jet very differently, but both will run well with appropriate settings. 2011 models also had some variation between 36mm bodies and 38mm due to supply issues. These will jet differently, and if they are AS2 carbs the size should be printed on the top of the cap.

Double check your gearing. 13/48 is stock, 13/50 is a bit better for keeping the bike on the boil but will drop a bit of top speed.

Finally, read up on squish clearances and consider checking yours and having the head modified (milled and chamber volume corrected). It makes the bike easier to jet, and more efficient (more power/less fuel consumption).

Take your time setting her up. These bikes come out of the factory with a few things that make you wonder, but once dialled in it'll be a rock solid reliable donk that runs like a champ.
 
Back
Top