Swingarm bolt will not budge HELP!

[Bark3rd]

I've had 2 shops now try to remove the swingarm bolt, it will not budge. They have tried penetrant, heat, sockets, mallets, these are decent mechanics. We need to get the engine out to split the cases, but stuck at this.

Any ideas?

 

[Biff]

I've had 2 shops now try to remove the swingarm bolt, it will not budge. They have tried penetrant, heat, sockets, mallets, these are decent mechanics. We need to get the engine out to split the cases, but stuck at this.

Any ideas?

Bigger hammer!

Hindsight - take it out every so often and grease up.

Not the answer you were looking for I suppose

 

[Jakobi]

Persistance is key. Rig something up so you can get a good perch on the axle without mushrooming it. Remove the footpegs and lay the bike over and chock it up on some timber so each hit with the hammer isn't absorbed by frame movement. Then keep working at it with penetrating oil and the biggest hammer you own. Smack it a few times a day, and it should start moving after a few days of punishment. Once it initially starts moving its generally smooth sailing from there.

Once removed, keep it lubricated.

 

[GasGas]

Persistance is key. Rig something up so you can get a good perch on the axle without mushrooming it. Remove the footpegs and lay the bike over and chock it up on some timber so each hit with the hammer isn't absorbed by frame movement. Then keep working at it with penetrating oil and the biggest hammer you own. Smack it a few times a day, and it should start moving after a few days of punishment. Once it initially starts moving its generally smooth sailing from there.

Once removed, keep it lubricated.

Good advise right there. The wood block trick is the key. Well that and grease it more often.

 

[Bark3rd]

Precious owner didn't lube it, thanks for the info.

 

[john r b]

How about laying the bike on it's side, heating the bolt then set a candle on for a few moments. The candle will melt and hopefully be your lube. You may also
try a air or electric hammer, but run the chance of mushrooming the bolt.if not carefull.

 

[Rick]

I've had 2 shops now try to remove the swingarm bolt, it will not budge. They have tried penetrant, heat, sockets, mallets, these are decent mechanics. We need to get the engine out to split the cases, but stuck at this.

Any ideas?

Yep.....try this before you breakout the heavy hitters! Make sure ALL the motor mount bolts are loose, even the head stay. What CAN happen is the other mounts can cause the motor to bind on the swingarm pivot shaft. If a groove develops on the shaft from the bushings, it may be enought to drive it past. By loosing up the other mounts, (1) in the front and the (2nd) under the transmission may be just enough to get the shaft to move.

When it comes out use a antiseize product on the pivot shaft where the shaft is inserted into the cases. The disimiliar metal causes it reaction in the metals and fuse them together.

Also a round wire brush, kinda like a bore brush for a rifle works good in cleaning out the bore in the cases of all corrosion to help keep it from reoccuring again.

Good luck!

 

[Rick]

How about laying the bike on it's side, heating the bolt then set a candle on for a few moments. The candle will melt and hopefully be your lube. You may also
try a air or electric hammer, but run the chance of mushrooming the bolt.if not carefull.

Heating will expand the shaft, it needs to be smaller. It is buggered up either in the case? Or the 2 bushings? If it is the bushing, trying to heat the bushing without heating the shaft is going to be tricky. If it is fused in the case area, then a little heat with a heat gun might be just enough to do the trick.

I've never ran into this issue myself, I try to keep this area lube with antiseize and it seems to work for me.

 

[Rick]

One other thing....make sure # 9 & 12 are loose as well. They also can bind the swingarm bolt.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...Type=13&make=gasgasdb&a=4&b=6&c=0&d=-SWINGARM

 

[pscook]

There are two steel bushings in the cases that the swingarm bolt pass through. More than likely the bolt has rusted to these bushings. If possible, take the bike as far apart as possible, down to the frame, swinger, and engine. The steel bolt doesn't touch any aluminum in any location on these bikes, everything is steel-to-steel contact, which allows rust to propagate with reckless abandon.

Apply penetrating oil between the swinger and the engine cases. Heat won't work right here because you have to get the heat past a fair bit of aluminum, and the cases and swinger will just soak up the heat. You need to get the oil in this small spot and get the oil to wick between the parts. Some heat will work, just don't get too carried away as you will start to get diminishing returns (burning things up).

See about getting a rivet gun with an aluminum drive bar (punch) and have at it. The bolt was stuck on my bike (2011) and it took quite a while, with lots of swearing and beating, to get it out.

God luck.

 

[Rick]

There are two steel bushings in the cases that the swingarm bolt pass through. More than likely the bolt has rusted to these bushings. If possible, take the bike as far apart as possible, down to the frame, swinger, and engine. The steel bolt doesn't touch any aluminum in any location on these bikes, everything is steel-to-steel contact, which allows rust to propagate with reckless abandon.

Apply penetrating oil between the swinger and the engine cases. Heat won't work right here because you have to get the heat past a fair bit of aluminum, and the cases and swinger will just soak up the heat. You need to get the oil in this small spot and get the oil to wick between the parts. Some heat will work, just don't get too carried away as you will start to get diminishing returns (burning things up).

See about getting a rivet gun with an aluminum drive bar (punch) and have at it. The bolt was stuck on my bike (2011) and it took quite a while, with lots of swearing and beating, to get it out.

God luck.

Not sure what year his bike is, but I don't ever recall seeing a steel sleeve pressed into the cases? Then again, I"ve never had my cases split. I have my bike down to the frame right now, I'll check my cases for future reference.

 

[paulos]

I wouldn't go too nuts with the big hammer approach. Depending on where it's stuck you could stuff the frame or crack something. I've restored a few vintage mx bikes, and where the swing arm bolt is beyond help I've actually slid one of those very thin grinder blades in to cut it loose. You're up for a new bolt obviously, but at least you're not replacing anything else.

 

[Longboardr]

You want to make it move use something like this. Whether or not it's a smart way of going about it I can't say.

 

[Jakobi]

I wouldn't go too nuts with the big hammer approach. Depending on where it's stuck you could stuff the frame or crack something. I've restored a few vintage mx bikes, and where the swing arm bolt is beyond help I've actually slid one of those very thin grinder blades in to cut it loose. You're up for a new bolt obviously, but at least you're not replacing anything else.

Agreed. Flogging it to the point that things break isnt the goal. Patience and persistance alternating between decent impacts and then allowing time for penetrating oils to work is what will get the job done.

Last resort cutting it out works, and then pressing out the individual sections.

 

[Buysomerice]

Hit it with penetrating oil and high freq vibrations. Use a hammer drill on hammer only and set the hammerdrill bit bit onto a socket or something the size of the rod to take the impact, use little pressure you're just trying to transfer the vibrations. Works the oil everywhere and breaks everything down. Only used this on other stuck metals.

 

[pscook]

Not sure what year his bike is, but I don't ever recall seeing a steel sleeve pressed into the cases? Then again, I"ve never had my cases split. I have my bike down to the frame right now, I'll check my cases for future reference.

I remember my 2002 had them, but then again I remember things wrong a lot. I will say that every dirt bike (a dozen?) I have serviced has the sleeves in the case, so maybe I'm just remembering info from another bike.

 

[swazi_matt]

when reinstalling the bolt is it better to grease it or use copper compound (anti sieze)? My feeling is copper as i have found that if left the grease can dry out and forms a kind of gum, but i have not used copper comp on something like this so am not sure

 

[300ECR]

I know this sound silly but you should try vinegar it is a very mild acid and will eat away some of the rust to free the bolt. I have used this for head bolts on older engines with success. You will need to lie the bike one side and pour small amounts around the thread area and let it work it's way in and continue this over a day or two..

 

[eff]

Also a round wire brush, kinda like a bore brush for a rifle works good in cleaning out the bore in the cases of all corrosion to help keep it from reoccuring again.

Good luck!

Great advice!

 

[Mudshark]

You want to make it move use something like this. Whether or not it's a smart way of going about it I can't say.

Don't beat on it. Use a press to apply steady pressure till it breaks free. Use the press after a couple of days of a penetrating oil like penetrol.