Talk me through my New-2-Me 2011 EC 250 Race

[AZRickD]

I have taken delivery of adv_rider's barely-used steed. I have spent the last few days checking it out, measuring the squish (putting my RB-Modded head on it), and taking apart my old 2005 DE250 in preparation for parting it out.

I have ridden it around the neighborhood and little else. The bike has an Air Striker 2 with 38mm bore. I'll need to jet it leaner for Phoenix' elevation and heat. Other than that, little else to do besides set the sag and ride it until I decide what changes the 48mm Zokes and Ohlins 888 shock will need.

So, tell me about this bike? What should I look for in spotting defects or other quirks. I know adv_rider had the water pump issue which he addressed with a thick gasket. Is that plastic skid plate going to hold up slamming through Arizona rocks? Whatever comes to mind, I'm game.

 

[GMP]

Just go through it bolt by bolt, look for fit/finish/quality issues and stupid stuff. For example my buddy's 250 had a stripped kickstarter bolt from the factory. As always go through the linkage and steering head, and set up as you normally would. The fork may be filled bled improper as well, some have reported this, including me. When your ready to tackle that read up and ask.

 

[Jakobi]

Protective gear.. you know what your bike needs for its area (bash plate, rad guards, pipe guard).

You've already done the head, and planned to fine tune the jetting. Have you checked the PV tension?
Water pump is good.
Engine is fresh.
Suspension mods after some seat time (may require respring and/or valving).
Keep an eye on the spoke tension.
Double check the seat frame and make sure it doesn't tear holes in the filter.

Other than that, same as above. Generally check the bike over and enjoy the new ride! I've managed to get many happy hours out of mine now.

 

[AZRickD]

What are the stock springs on the 48mm Zokes and Ohlins shock?

What is the effective fly wheel weigt ?

 

[GMP]

4.2Nm/52Nm, but it won't feel like a 4.2Nm in a 45 Zoke. The fork is full of goofy bleed shim valving and possibly not bled right so thats a good place to start after a couple hours. The flywheel is much larger in dia. as well as heavier so you can't compare weight. Total inertia, what it all adds up to, is twice as much with the 2K-3 than the 2K-2 with 11oz weight. If you like what you have and are used to it you may find the big flywheel gives a sluggish response to the clutch. Try it.

I think the race has the old linkage and only the replica bikes got the new linkage, correct? If I am wrong, you will need a link skid to avoid destroying your shock, from one rock rider to another.

 

[AZRickD]

Yes. Old-style linkage, and given our rocks, I will take it.

Just bouncing up and down on the street, the suspension seems to be valved firm - good for a racer. I havn't set the sag so I think my back end might be low (the front end is less stable sans damper than was my re-sprung 2005 even though I have dropped 40+ pounds).

Understood on the FWW whch is why I wrote "effective" in the question. The 2K3 unit dwarfs the 2K2 in the 2005 DE250, even *with* the Steahly nutted on. The 2K3 fills the entire cavity and looks to have much of its mass on the periphery while the Steahly is just a fairly simple disk. It will be a climber, I would wager.

 

[GMP]

Rick,

It's not valved firm at all if its like the '12. It's just a CC fork that is new and has a few mm extra preload. Rebound is sloppy so 6 to 10 clicks out was the rule until I fixed it. Run the PFP full out and the comp around 15 to 18 out in the rocks for starters. Firm feel, but NO deflection, you will like this fork a lot. On the shock, don't run the rebound clicker in more than 15 out, or it affects the compression and gets harsh. I was not too impressed with the stock shock valving but mine is good now.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[adv rider]

set-up

I had taken apart linkage, removed shock and greased bearings before being ridden. I set the spring at 11mm preload to try it out, I don't remember what other settings for the shock was at.
I believe the PFP was fully backed out.
I did not remove triple clamp and grease steering head. Wheels were off, so the axles were greased.
The coolant is the Hybrid oat coolant-Triumph brand, or something like that.

Do you think you will use the seat cover? I always wanted one like that on my other bikes, but never got one.

 

[adv rider]

linkage skidplate

A local guy here in WA makes linkage skidplates.
Seehorn's Xtreme slideplates, I don't see a web site,but he has a facebook page.

I believe they attach to back edge of skidplate, but it is just a piece of UHMW. It Looks pretty simple to make

 

[GMP]

No problems with the older linkage as the pull rods attach directly to the swingarm up high, and the shock clevis is never the lowest point.

 

[adv rider]

linkage skidplate

Oh.. I had it backwards, thought there was a need for protection

 

[AZRickD]

I have my Ohlins 888 shock from the 2005 was massaged by LTR and then regularly R&Red once or twice a year (the R&R usually triggered when rebound damping would fade).

LTR did both my 45mm Zokes and the Ohlins for Slo-C Rock Riding. Now I'm a Slo-B, and I don't do nearly as much hike-a-bike.

 

[AZRickD]

Saturday and Sunday I rode very early in the morning (sun-up) to avoid the Phoenix heat. 1.5 hours each day of rocky single track and sand wash ranging from gravel to sugar.

This 2011 bike's motor is impressive. The Rain-mode tamed it a bit. It is freer revving than my 1.05mm squished 2005. Keep in mind that my 2005 had a 52T rear sprocket. The 2011's motor is more than a match for the 48T SuperSprox. Although I didn't do any loong hill climbs to get a good fix on it, I'm in no hurry to change out the rear at all.

The clutch lever pull was light and the clutch functioned and modulated well. No noise.

The suspension might require a step up in spring and a very basic revalve (for my slowness).