what forks to use

Cool, yeah I'd read that post during my research. I've done a few brackets for road & roadrace bikes so I'm not that scared of it, but I could do without $80 & shipping added onto the conversion cost. Better spent on bearings for which I'll need steering & smaller ID front wheel by the looks.

I usually dummy up plates in plywood to get the holes aligned & then transpose to allly.
does the caliper still line up with the disk with this process? I was under the impression that the braking adapter also moves the caliper closer to the centre of the axel
 
Cool, yeah I'd read that post during my research. I've done a few brackets for road & roadrace bikes so I'm not that scared of it, but I could do without $80 & shipping added onto the conversion cost. Better spent on bearings for which I'll need steering & smaller ID front wheel by the looks.

I usually dummy up plates in plywood to get the holes aligned & then transpose to allly.

Keep in mind to make / modify (if needed) your axle spacers first to center your wheel then build or modify the caliper mount to match the disc location.
 
yeah I have a lathe if I need to knock up some more wheel spacers. I was going to whip the wheel off and dummy up the forks in the triples & see where I'm at. There is a mill at work if I need to make a stepped plate arrangement which is most likely. . . . But it turned a bit cold & windy last night (middle of winter here) and the walk down the stairs didn't seem as appealing as watching TV next to the wife.

Have to also check if the inside front wheel centre spacer will need to be remade with the smaller ID bearings.

I'm also battling the urge to jump right in. I can still ride the bike like it is, but I need to pull the shock out as its leaked oil & the base gaskets were also seeping. Also I'm building a roadrace bike engine & the cylinder will be back soon from a mates machine shop so I'll need to do some more porting & get it welded. All this costs money, so its a matter of timing so I don't have several bikes in pieces & not the money to get them all back together + immovable items with bits hanging off them.
 
Cool, thanks for sharing.

My Zokes had already been revalved & were a heap better than std (esp on tree roots) but they still beat me up. On the way home from BermBuster last weekend my mate was driving & I did a few min research on the cellphone & came up with a plan thanks to this forum. hopefully it makes riding more comfortable on the choppy stuff.
 
Hey did anyone write down what the steering head bearing dimensions were?

Just want to double check, I mean it is possible that the shaft size & frame size is the same between the GG & YZ, but I'd be bummed if I ordered the bearings & they were different between some model years or whatnot.
 
Hey did anyone write down what the steering head bearing dimensions were?

Just want to double check, I mean it is possible that the shaft size & frame size is the same between the GG & YZ, but I'd be bummed if I ordered the bearings & they were different between some model years or whatnot.
I didn't write it down, but the upper bearing is the same as the OEM triple clamps. The lower bearing has a bigger id. Mine are 2010 triples from a yz250f.
 
Sweet that gives me a starting point. I have the shaft of the YZ so I can measure that & order when the time comes. Thanks
 
Hey did anyone write down what the steering head bearing dimensions were?

Just want to double check, I mean it is possible that the shaft size & frame size is the same between the GG & YZ, but I'd be bummed if I ordered the bearings & they were different between some model years or whatnot.

For my bike that had conventional forks, I used the All Balls YZ250F part # 22-1001 steering stem bearing and race kit. I then had fresh bearings top and bottom. This link shows the bearing sizes for many bikes. http://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconversion
 
Are there any issues with using 2011/12 kyb forks with 2007 yz triples? any changes to the offsets between those years? I see the caliper changed so it will be a different braking adapter to the 2007 fork
 
nah that'll be the morning after a particularly difficult chilli & a few too many beers.
 
Ahh I got lazy after looking at the space for a Caliper bracket - there isn't any, & as I was ordering some gaskets to a forwarding house I plunked down $60 US for the Braking bracket from Amazon. They will share the freight back to NZ & I don't have to think about it :D. . . .except how to pay the next credit card bill which was already a problem. :(


I bought the steering bearings (AB221001 All Bearings YZ250 06 kit) quite a common size in stock at my local shop.

I've found the forks had leaked a little oil when put in vertical position which is common of forks that sat a while. I pulled back the dust seals, ran some film (remember that stuff that cameras used) under the main seals & lightly hazed the shiny chrome with a scotchbite pad cleaned it up & pumped it up & down. Seemed to stop the issue, we'll see but I want to get a ride in rather than do the seals & then have to get them apart for new springs of valving changes if required.
 
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now that I've fully hijacked this thread; my calliper bracket showed up & I bolted it on, looks like the right one for the '06 forks, but the brake was still attached to the GG by the brake lines so I only got to slide it on & measure the disc to spacer distance that looked right.

I think I am going to try make some blocks up to fit the triple clamps that have bolts in them to hit the frame in the same way as the stock setup does. I'll fashion them to bolt on, but butt up against the YZ bottom clamp and also to weld to the YZ fork stops at the top only so as not to compromise and soften the metal of the actual clamps.

I'll see how I go, but this means I'm not having to weld to the frame which will distort the bearing area and more importantly means I don't have to take the frame with everything heavy still attached to someone who can weld it properly (my welder only does messy retained nuts, non critical stuff etc).

But the gaskets showed up so that's job number one anyway. This is likely a month away but will post up pics if it works out.
 
Just to clarify about welding on a steering stop. If the fit on the stop is perfect to the frame (no gaps) and it's welded correctly, you won't have an issue with bearing race fitment due to warping.:)
 
Can't see me making a perfect one but mainly the moving the bike without the front attached is putting me off.
My weldy guy says that even 7mm thick steel welding a bracket to a hydraulic tube is enough to distort it. But I want to try replicate the std system.
 
Well to continue my hijack, I finally got clear (or rather to an impasse waiting for parts) of my other projects to get back to my conversion.

I whipped the front end off & slid in the YZ triple c/w old YZ bearings for now (new ones will go in once any welding done). That was easy enough, now just to work out how to make the steering stops.

I've got some plastic I will carve up to replicate the chunks of metal on the original GG Triple that have the cap bolts threaded into them that hit the frame. I'll make these blocks and then maybe make a jig that can hold threaded rod in place to keep them in the right place, yet to work that out. Then I'll make the blocks out of ally, bolt them from underside & weld the tops of the YZ stops to the tops of these blocks as belt & braces. Should be far enough up that won't affect the rest of the clamp. Will also be a slightly adjustable stop like std.

I'll make an adaptor plate for the front mudguard to pick up original mounts. the last thing is adapting the Motosportz steering damper I have. The holes go right through for the bar clamps in the same place from GG to YZ, only prob is the YZ clamps line up with the rear GG ones & I'd prefer to use the front ones. I'd redrill some holes but it gets thinner there. More thought required.

Hmm I've got a week to do this before my next ride. . .
 
Can you have a bracket with the stops welded on it that slips over the steering head.This is the way the old school WER steering stabilizers(also known in sweepers world as hood ornaments) were mounted.
You can then either drill completely through the frame behind the neck and secure with one long bolt.Or you could do something even tricker depending on the savviness of your welder fabricater guy.Id drill holes and then tig weld,tack weld a collared threaded insert that would recess into the drilled hole.That way you would be sure the frame was sealed.Spot welding the collar with a tig welder would keep the heat to a minimum and would be behind the trip head itself.

Just a thought
 
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