Will a 500cc Two Stroke Engine fit in an 2011 GasGas Frame

Moto7man

Member
I was considering a new project. I was thinking about looking for a GASGAS rolling chassis. Would a CR500 engine or KX500 engine fit in a 2010/2011 GasGas B Frame? I know the motor mounts would have to be moved, down tube may have to be cut, head on the 500 would have to be turned around for the head mount to clear the fuel tank. Has this ever been done?
 
I can see it now... "Why would anyone want to do this???" "What a useless bike that would be!!!" Whatever to that bro I'm with ya I love projects like this that involve some real fabrication challenges. I haven't seen anything like that so I hope you give it a go!
 
My buddy has a CR500, that motor in a GG chassis would be insane.... I love it! It's a larger motor so I'd imagine some changes would need to be made. Mounts etc..
 
I'm on the lets make this happen train!

First thing would be getting some measurements and specs for both and then deciding if its feasable and how much work would be involved. I'm guessing you don't want to modify the chasis too much as you'll be looking at retaining the gasser feel just with more grunt!
 
Just Guessing

My thought is a kx might be an easier swap
The original gasser frames were supposedly a lot like the kxs of the time
So maybe............
Anyway good luck and we'll all want a build up thread
Stoby
 
Do it!

Have you seen Donny Emler's KTM/KX500? I think there's a article on it in MXA. They slid a Service Kawasaki KX 500 motor into SX 250 frame. It's a beast!
If you need any help, let me know .
 
My thought is a kx might be an easier swap
The original gasser frames were supposedly a lot like the kxs of the time
So maybe............
Anyway good luck and we'll all want a build up thread
Stoby

The GasGas motor was stolen from a late 80's Honda motor. Could go either way. If you want a cheap gasgas rolling chassis, look for a 450 with a lunched motor. That chassis would have more room for the 500 mill. Find a nice one with low hours, U-rims, and the zinc plated frame.
 
The GasGas motor was stolen from a late 80's Honda motor. Could go either way. If you want a cheap gasgas rolling chassis, look for a 450 with a lunched motor. That chassis would have more room for the 500 mill. Find a nice one with low hours, U-rims, and the zinc plated frame.


Frame is the same on 450 and 2 stroke frames, just the mounts are different. So any bike is the same frame size anyway.
 
I'm on the lets make this happen train!

First thing would be getting some measurements and specs for both and then deciding if its feasable and how much work would be involved. I'm guessing you don't want to modify the chasis too much as you'll be looking at retaining the gasser feel just with more grunt!

This is where I got the idea. I've been a member for a couple of years.

http://www.kxriders.com/forums/

This would be an additional bike. I want to keep the bike as close to original GasGas as possible. I am considering the KX and CR engines but I think the CR engine is shorter and more compact. I'm going to try to put some numbers together to see if it is feasible. Any input is welcome!
 
Hell yea! Sounds like a great idea and who cares how well "it works"? Here is my old bike "Trouble". 1040cc, welded lightened crank, 28mm carbs (as she sits here) ran 11:40's with street tires, mufflers and 26 mm carbs. She was fast and I weighed 125 pounds. Drove her 2 years out here on the dirt roads, she was legal, tag under tail fin. Never dropped her in over 30 years. She was built from a bare frame and cases and new pieces for me in 1980. !977 frame. Notice the disc brakes front and rear :) You can never go wrong with more power and craziness! :)
Ed
 

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i did one a few years ago with a 2004 crf 250 frame , was a good project , but just way too much grunt for me :eek: , if its just for fun go for it :D







 
Hell yea! Sounds like a great idea and who cares how well "it works"? Here is my old bike "Trouble". 1040cc, welded lightened crank, 28mm carbs (as she sits here) ran 11:40's with street tires, mufflers and 26 mm carbs. She was fast and I weighed 125 pounds. Drove her 2 years out here on the dirt roads, she was legal, tag under tail fin. Never dropped her in over 30 years. She was built from a bare frame and cases and new pieces for me in 1980. !977 frame. Notice the disc brakes front and rear :) You can never go wrong with more power and craziness! :)
Ed
+
I like it.
 
Hell yea! Sounds like a great idea and who cares how well "it works"? Here is my old bike "Trouble". 1040cc, welded lightened crank, 28mm carbs (as she sits here) ran 11:40's with street tires, mufflers and 26 mm carbs. She was fast and I weighed 125 pounds. Drove her 2 years out here on the dirt roads, she was legal, tag under tail fin. Never dropped her in over 30 years. She was built from a bare frame and cases and new pieces for me in 1980. !977 frame. Notice the disc brakes front and rear :) You can never go wrong with more power and craziness! :)

Ed


That is an awesome bike!
 
Can't wait to see this happen!

A CR500 motor stuffed into any chassis is cool, using a GG is waaaay cool. Who cares if it is at all practical ... just find a wide open space, and grab a handful! Who doesn't love a big-bore 2t?

Damn the AMA/FIM etc. rules, I wish some company would build a 350-400cc 2t MX bike to compete with the 450's.
 
i've done 2 franken-bikes over the last few years.
1st was a 03 kx 250 2t stuffed into a 03 kx125 frame. that one was easy,we just cut and lenghtened out the engine cradle hoop by an inch or so, and fabbed up some new motor mounts.

last winter i did one for my wife. i put her honda crf230 air cooled 4t engine into a crf250r aluminum chassis.we lowered the suspension internally and with a kouba link,and revalved it for trail riding.so she now has the bike that honda should be building for a trailbike

34.5" seat height
good suspension on both ends with adjustability
good disc brakes on both ends
air cooled reliability
weight is 30-40 lbs lighter than the crf230f
oh yah- it's got e-start and a kickstand!

the one tip/trick i learned is to get the countershaft sprocket as close to the same place on the build bike, as it was on the donor bike. but also equally important is the lenght,placement of the shifter on the build bike in relation to the footpegs. you want the shifter to be as close as possible in length as the original build engine was , so it shifts well without being short and notchy/hard to shift, or to long and to long a throw to get from gear to gear.

but go for it, these builds are really cool!
 
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