Will not reach powerband 06`EC300
- Thread starter stian
- Start date
I used a cheap(ish) auto ranging meter, but the results it gave me were consistent and repeatable. So to be blunt, I don't know what settings you should be using on the meter. All I know is that the results you're seeing aren't the same that I get. It seems highly unlikely that you'd have two coils go bad and even less likely that they'd be returning nearly identical readings if they both went bad.
I wish I knew what to tell you
Sounds like most things have been suggested and checked, the only thing i'll add is regarding the reeds.
You say in your opening post you changed 2 of the 4 petals. I recently had similar issues where it wouldnt rev out cleanly in the powerband / sputtering at higher rpm. I changed and checked a few things, but it wasnt until I changed reeds (all of them) that it went away.
Not sure why you only changed 2 (perhaps the other 2 looked ok?), but apart from a tiny little chip in the corner of one petal on mine, they all looked fine. Maybe the two you didnt change are giving you problems?
You say in your opening post you changed 2 of the 4 petals. I recently had similar issues where it wouldnt rev out cleanly in the powerband / sputtering at higher rpm. I changed and checked a few things, but it wasnt until I changed reeds (all of them) that it went away.
Not sure why you only changed 2 (perhaps the other 2 looked ok?), but apart from a tiny little chip in the corner of one petal on mine, they all looked fine. Maybe the two you didnt change are giving you problems?
HerminatorZA
New member
If your compression is low, the bike will not rev into the powerband.
Have your checked piston and rings
Have your checked piston and rings
Replaced all of the petals, but after 15h, two of the petals were shot. I replaced the two broken with the two old. The problem with bogging was before, AND after replacing reed-petals. New and old.
Regarding piston, its a 15-25h old piston, clearences are good, piston-rings are well within spec (<0,30) and the problem was also with another piston.
Going to cut open the electrical wires from stator and up, order a new coil and disconnect everything but stator, coil, regulator and CDI.
Also going to add a new sparkplug and clean the carb, for the 103th time.
Better safe then sorry.
Thanks for the answers! Ill keep you posted
The voltage regulator should have no effect on the ignition system; it only clips peak voltage for lighting.
For sparks:
1) Single exciter winding on the stator plus wires
2) Pulse trigger outside of the flywheel plus wires
3) CDI plus wires
4) Ignition coil plus wires
5) High tension lead plus spark plug
6) Grounds for the engine and coil etc.
The flywheel magnets could be weak if the flywheel has been smacked or otherwise beat up by a previous owner. Breaking up at high RPM suggests a bad wiring connection or corroded wire or shorting out due to bad insulation. There's got to be an answer somewhere.
For sparks:
1) Single exciter winding on the stator plus wires
2) Pulse trigger outside of the flywheel plus wires
3) CDI plus wires
4) Ignition coil plus wires
5) High tension lead plus spark plug
6) Grounds for the engine and coil etc.
The flywheel magnets could be weak if the flywheel has been smacked or otherwise beat up by a previous owner. Breaking up at high RPM suggests a bad wiring connection or corroded wire or shorting out due to bad insulation. There's got to be an answer somewhere.
motopsycho87
New member
You said the bike runs fine for 15 minutes then bogs? Then it can only be electrical. It's a very common symptom of a failing coil somewhere or cdi,run well cold, but something expands and shorts or disconnects the circuit somewhere...
Terrence R
New member
Is your gas cap vent clogged with dirt? I Had a similar problem with a bike before with this issue. Same symptoms as u described.
Had the bike in parts, for new bearings, gaskets, sprockets, oil, etc.
after the rebuild, I fired up and took it on a 45min run. 15min out of the 45min, it started to bog as usual.
As Neil said, I am guessing its a bad connection somewhere.
Does someone have a picture of the wiring to the cdi box / ie. from the stator? As I said in page 2 here, I think previous owner had it wired wrong.
Fuel runs freely, and nothings clogged. Ive got a lot to do these times, so i am going to the shed when I got the time for it.
Terrence R
New member
Personally, I would run it with the gas cap loose just to confirm that's it's not gas vent related.
motopsycho87
New member
All the colours from the stator to cdi are matched.
Red and green are pickup, yellow is lighting, red/white red/black are cdi charge, white blue is cdi to HT coil, black /white is earth, black/yellow is kill switch. (From memory)
Also, lower CO.pression on a 2t is higher revs unless it's shagged. U would make sure that combustion chamber was hogged out enough. I machined mine 3 times to get it running nice (didn't want to take too much out, but was measuring with a syringe)
Red and green are pickup, yellow is lighting, red/white red/black are cdi charge, white blue is cdi to HT coil, black /white is earth, black/yellow is kill switch. (From memory)
Also, lower CO.pression on a 2t is higher revs unless it's shagged. U would make sure that combustion chamber was hogged out enough. I machined mine 3 times to get it running nice (didn't want to take too much out, but was measuring with a syringe)
I got some freetime from thesis-writing tonight, ill have the carb cleaned and electric-harness on the table.
Question regarding carb cleaning (AS1); the torx security screw in the bottom of the carb - is it necessary to remove these parts for cleaning? I havent removed them before. Ill check them for leaks thought.
adriano.ro
New member
You don't need to remove that part but u can try to see if is all good thare. Look on this video:
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20957
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20957
barossi73
Gold Level Site Supporter
I thought u had eliminated carb being at fault on page1 when you swapped it out?
Got to be something simple,this is infuriating and its not even my bike!
Hang in there,once you get to the bottom of it all the frustration will vanish in a cloud of castrol!
Id be rechecking earth/shorts,breather,fuel-lines for internal damage,drop the petcock and check/blow gently thru fuel intake screen.slosh and empty tank in case theres any foreign matter that could intermittently restrict intake.any tears in petcock intake will allow sediment to flow straight to fuel bowl and block jets or float needle.(remove jets when you blow out airways,allows more airflow)
Recheck float level and vicon needle(remove and blow thru)
If you have map switch try both positions,and perhaps if map switch has been relocated to bars,let it hang free to eliminate shorts.
Did the problem begin when bike was running fine or after some changes were made?
Got to be something simple,this is infuriating and its not even my bike!
Hang in there,once you get to the bottom of it all the frustration will vanish in a cloud of castrol!
Id be rechecking earth/shorts,breather,fuel-lines for internal damage,drop the petcock and check/blow gently thru fuel intake screen.slosh and empty tank in case theres any foreign matter that could intermittently restrict intake.any tears in petcock intake will allow sediment to flow straight to fuel bowl and block jets or float needle.(remove jets when you blow out airways,allows more airflow)
Recheck float level and vicon needle(remove and blow thru)
If you have map switch try both positions,and perhaps if map switch has been relocated to bars,let it hang free to eliminate shorts.
Did the problem begin when bike was running fine or after some changes were made?
I refuse to let my carbs sit dry through winter. It seems to harm the rubber bits more than it helps varnish buildup. Whenever I let a bike sit dry, I replaced o-rings and viton tipped needles. I've done this with 5 different motorcycles, with ancient and new carbs alike.. and I can tell you there is no difference between uncleaned and cleaned in performance in my experience. Short of having something quite large lodged in your carb, I think you are safe to leave it attached to the bike and clean it once per year, maximum.
Point is, I sincerely doubt it's preventing you from getting to the powerband. Where does your bike top out at? Is it physically incapable of revving up to where the powerband would be? Does it rev to the moon but never has a "hit?" Sputter and stall? How does your plug look after an aggressive ride?
Point is, I sincerely doubt it's preventing you from getting to the powerband. Where does your bike top out at? Is it physically incapable of revving up to where the powerband would be? Does it rev to the moon but never has a "hit?" Sputter and stall? How does your plug look after an aggressive ride?
socalscott
New member
Check the float pin holes. Mine had one of the holes worn, which allowed the float to pivot at higher revs. Thus, flooding in a big way.
Is your silencer packing wet!
Is your silencer packing wet!
Had some time on my hands, removed the wiring harness and took a look.
Cut the ground wire (Yellow/green) and ground both sides of it to the frame. The harness is grounded at three points in the frame. CDI and the rear of the frame, whre it connects to the subframe. Continuity all the way.
Was out, fired up, seems as it runs quite rich, with AS1, #180 main, #42 pilot, #7 slide, N1EG needle clip 2 from top.
Still bogging thought. Going to give it a ride this week
Cut the ground wire (Yellow/green) and ground both sides of it to the frame. The harness is grounded at three points in the frame. CDI and the rear of the frame, whre it connects to the subframe. Continuity all the way.
Was out, fired up, seems as it runs quite rich, with AS1, #180 main, #42 pilot, #7 slide, N1EG needle clip 2 from top.
Still bogging thought. Going to give it a ride this week
