I'm no carb expert, but the N1EG needle and #180 main seems too rich.
Going out for a test-run again, now ive locked the powervalve in open position.
I've had my power valve stick open a couple of times and there is a noticeable drop in low end torque. Also sounds baffed out until about mid RPM. It will be interesting to hear what you find out. Did you unhook the rod so the governor balls operate normally?
I'm baffled by electricity but I'm pretty confident in believing there should be continuity between the yellow and frame. It's in my mind the only way alternating current could work - unless you've floated the ground on the stator.
You will get continuity from yellow to ground since you are actually measuring the resistance of your lighting coil windings. The factory manual says it should measure 0.67 ohms +/- 20%. This has nothing to do with how the engine runs.
Yeoop!
I'd be checking the PV governor and making sure the actuator arm can and does work as it should; not just checking that the drum valves and flapper 'can' turn.
Consider changing carbs if you have the option. The nozzle could be flogged out, but I imagine you'd notice it across the rev range rather than the behaviour/issues you're having. Regardless check off the list what you can!
How's the exhaust? Do you have anything that is seriously restricting flow and choking it? Rag in the pipe? Ratts nest? Packing fluffed up? Kids toys?
I hope so! (that she screams like she should).
air in, exhaust out, fuel, compression and ignition! had to be one of them!
haha! Hold your horses. This is my second silencer, and the other one was 100% clean. Same problem there.
But, you can have 50%, and Neil gets 50% for his electrical knowledge
Neils electrical knowledge is 2nd to none! Wish I knew a slither of what he does!
Anyway, I've crossed my fingers and am holding my tongue to the side just the right way hoping you've finally got her running right.