matt_tidball
New member
I just switched back to 7 wt fork oil from 5 wt to try that. What about just drilling holes in the stock spacers? wouldn't that work as well? why is the new spacer taller?
2011 six days fork fixed (kinda)
- Thread starter matt_tidball
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GMP
Active member
I saw that pic, its not what I'm looking for. I'm interested in seeing the cartridge spring seat in detail, and how it may differ from what has been used in the past without issue. I'll say it again, the spacer is not the problem. In fact, I'd like to see the fork completely apart, and see if the holes in the end of the lower tube(4 holes after the bushing land) are the same.
This is a pretty simple fork that has worked well in the past. It should not be a huge engineering feat to make it work, it should be obvious to anyone familiar with the fork once it is disassembled.
This is a pretty simple fork that has worked well in the past. It should not be a huge engineering feat to make it work, it should be obvious to anyone familiar with the fork once it is disassembled.
rgranger
Gold Level Site Supporter
When I got my '09 KTM 300, the same thing happened, I would ride Sat or Sun and my wrists would hurt though Thursday, this was after a big tuner had worked on them. I finally sent them off to Javier (Trail Tricks) and it made a major difference, like no pain! Not to mention how scary the bike was, I never knew witch way it was going to send me.
rgranger
Gold Level Site Supporter
Glenn, when I got my bike from Hall's I had them send the forks Zokes 45's to Les. My paraphrasing here and 09 may not be correct, he said, "that in 09 GG/Zokes had figured out almost all the stuff that he had been doing to setup the forks and that they were really good right from the factory with minor spring adjustments. He took mine apart, I think one of the first 2011's, and he said that they had forgotten everything in the space of one year. He said that he wished that I had been able to ride the bike before sending him the forks to see just how bad they were!" Unfortunately, I have not been able to try the bike out in the forest but once and with the factory monster tire on it, it was stinkbug city and riding in 8" of sugar sand, was not a good combo.
I think he is talking about machining those V's in the seat and also cutting grooves in the spacer to allow the oil to move. The stock setup was constricting the flow before valving even comes into effect. Sort of like old school orifice damping.
I agree, I think valving is the next step.
I agree, I think valving is the next step.
matt_tidball
New member
Going back to 7 wt fork oil from 5 wt made all the differance. Now the front end stays planted and almost all the deflection is gone. Apperantly you just can't make 5 wt oil work in these forks. Which brings me to wonder if 10 wt oil would work even better? Has anyone tried 10 wt oil in the 45 Zoke?
GMP
Active member
Thats because 5W causes loss in rebound control, one thing this fork does not need with the free bleed in the rebound piston. Viscosity has a greater effect on rebound than compression.
So whats up with that spacer / spring base mod? Still interested in seeing a pic of the OEM parts.
So whats up with that spacer / spring base mod? Still interested in seeing a pic of the OEM parts.
thumperrider1
New member
Does it come with 5wt from the factory?
LTR put 10wt in my 2005 Zokes even after he revalved them for rocks and to massage the problem of a lack of rebound.
skid jackson
New member
I got mine back from Factory Connection ... They use some high zoot 5wt fork oil they got from honda through the mx racing. Seems to work nicely front and back .... I'm guessing its all about the valving. bike absolutely devoured some nasty up hill rock gardens this weekend. Not so hot in the whoops though!!
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