2012 300 plastics & seat

Sorry to hear about the rough go for 2012 for you and the family Clay. I believe it will rebound greatly for 2013. I would think the factory will get their parts suppliers in line.

For those of us who been around this brand for a long time we are used to the up and down years. And are certainly used to minor quirks with these bikes.

If you could have seen the long lists of things we needed to modify or replace before we even rode the bike back say 8 -10 years ago, you would smile that some shroud plastic mounting and the seat are the only minor tweaks some feel the bike needs.

Some years back this website is mostly how I learned what my bike needed modded or messaged. No one but guys on this website that I knew owned them, they were truly exotics.

If anyone strays away from a Gas Gas cause of a plastic mounting issue that is easily fixed with something you already have in your shop, or a seat that seems to hard to one but may be fine to another guy. I say let them. I mean no bike is Rainbows and Pony's. All dirt bikes have quirks, and things that bug each individual, thats why there is such a large aftermarket.

Anyhow many of us know what these bikes used to be and what they are now. They used to be the best turning and handling, most tractable 2 Stroke made IMO. Now they are all of that plus stone cold reliable, fit and finish is way up, standard equipment is top notch, and specs are more than competitive with the competition. Oh and the Icing on the cake is, they are certainly one of the best looking bikes on the market.

Since I started riding Gas Gas I have watched Gas Gas owners come and go. But you know what? Seems more times than not, I see them come back down the Gas Gas road. That in it's self speaks volumes. :)

Roscoe
 
Just got back from another day on the 2012!! Not to rub it in but unless you have one your missing out :D hey jakobi maybe one of these days we should find a half way point and meet up for a weekend of riding and you can give it a blast! Im sure by then you would have ridden one but its a great excuse to have a holiday with riding :rolleyes:
 
You just want to ride my new little 250 with its TTX Nato! I see your motives! Hahaha. I don't know anyone up here who's accquired a 2012 and the dealer hasn't lined any sales up as far as I know. He still has a 2011 EC300E to move (so anyone in Cairns looking for a bargain!?). I'm keen to do a run around Proserpine if you know the deadly loops! :D Just need to get the tow ball on the car!
 
I might actually be able to sort a proserpine weekend as a few of my workmates go there every now and again!! I will ask a few blokes and see what comes of it. Otherwise just send ur bike to coffs harbour and you fly down, You will cream with the riding there!!! :cool:
 
Good call.. Talk to you about it later elsewhere.. Resuming thread action..

Tell me more about these 2012 models. Pro's and Con's. Do you notice any significant difference in the rear end with the newer linkage? How are the forks settling in Nato?
 
I have found that in the situation of "Holy crap im going to fast for this tree root that just popped up" it is very forgiving in the rear end, The front is much better on the hard hits imo but in the usual soft to mid feel its the same or simillar to the sachs. A big plus for me is the extra height being 6ft 1inch, The seat is a different shape to the "old" bikes but i find that a huge plus as when im in singles i can really throw myself all over the place with little effort which i find is a plus, But the only downside is it is a little tendering on the ass but worth it. It makes you very confident on any hill i have had a go at but in saying that my '10 was an awesome climber too so they are keeping up the gasgas standard :p I love the spark start and to say the least the sound it makes gives the other riders a scare haha its like an air starter on a truck!! The magura clutch is a ripper i have not heard and screams from it and it feels lighter than my '10. Oh and i also remember in the fast rocky stuff my '10 felt like i needed a steering dampner and this new 12 smashes it like butter so the forks are a lot different i guess :o The list of plusses are huge but with all ups have have a down and mine are very minor and dont really bother me but just are the only things i can pick, I preffered the rear indicators up high instead of under the plate, I preffered the uuhhhhmmmmmmmmm thats it that i can think of right now ;)
 
They are gold, I am currently away from mine working and miss it as much as my family.
I am in the jetting process and yet to sort the suspension , but it is still amazing.
Every new bike has its dilemmas.
I just hope they sort out the frame probs with the airbox and help us out with a real fix once they have it sorted.
Being a gg I am sure they will look after us.
Awesome bike and great in every way.
Cheers Mark:D
 
I have several ideas for a shroud mount fix. Since I do not have my bike yet, could someone measure the length through the center of the shroud mount standoff thats molded in the shroud. From the inner surface of the shroud to flat edge that would contact the radiator grommet, not including the tit that pops through the grommet. Thanks.

I got my new EC 300 racing a few weeks ago. I think I have good idea for a shroud mount fix, I didn't have done it yet. I hope you can understand what I'm try to explain, my language skills are not so good... :o

In the picture I have what I'm gonna use.

First I'm gonna cut off that part of the mount which goes through the grommet. After that there is a flat surface against the radiator grommet and I will drill a hole for the bolt, throught this flat mount surface (about 11mm. if using OEM GG-radiator holder bushing BE25832040) Bottom of the shroud mount is so thin, that maybe some normal washer would be better and then 7mm. hole would be fine. Then I have to drill a hole in the shroud for the t-wrench (maybe about 15mm?), just to the same position, where the shroud mount is behind.
To behind the radiator grommets I will put those same plastic plates with the M6 nut, which were used before to lower shroud mount. (BE25632015 and left in the picture)

So I'm gonna use just the same way and the parts which were used before on the older gas gas and of course to the both, upper and the lower shroud mounts.

I try to get pictures when I got all parts and get it done, or maybe someone figure out the better fix before that! :)

I hope you get the idea what I was thinking... :cool:
 

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Your idea is very close to one I kicked around, but there seems like very little thin plastic under that bolt head holding things together. To be fair though I do not have a bike yet, just judging pics. I'm going to do what I did on my '07 for a top mount and is still working today. A GP brace passed through the grommets and mounted to frame. This is optional though, you could use a nut and fender washer to mount the isolator to a rad frame, NOT the radiator tab. M6 threaded vibration isolator screwed into end of brace. All plastic standoff material cut from shroud, shroud drilled, and screwed to isolator. The isolator flexes to conform to the angle of the shroud when tightened. This also takes a lot of stress off the plastic when its caught by a vine or bends in a fall. It works well, and doesn't look bad either with the right hardware. When I'm done I'll post a detailed report with part #s to do it the cleanest way.
 
You are right that the plastic is very thin where the bolt goes thru the shroud mount, I noticed it and compared it to the old shroud and there is about two times thicker plastic under the bolt head. That can be a problem and it can be too weak. Maybe I wait and see what your solution will look! :)
 
I posted a pic of it on my '07, may have been lost with the gallery though. The shroud itself is thick enough, and I backed it up with stainless fender washers. Very stout, stronger than the lower bolt mount on the pre '12. I have parts comming but no bike yet!:(

gassi,

Please measure the length of the standoff section as it protrudes from the shroud, through its center. This will allow me to select the best length isolator and adjust with washers. Thanks.
 
The rubber busings dont seem to be to bad. I safty wired them in and now if they pop out its easy to pop them back in. The stub is a little weak broke on the first ride, but i got tangled up with a tree.
 
I don't want to deal with that issue on the trail so I'll deal with it in the shop first.
 
gassi,

Please measure the length of the standoff section as it protrudes from the shroud, through its center. This will allow me to select the best length isolator and adjust with washers. Thanks.


Hope I understand it right... I guess you mean distance between the shroud and the shroud mount inner flat surface which contacts the radiator grommet, right?
I didn't have a time to take the shroud off to the bike so little difficult to measure, but I measured around 22mm. to center of the lower mount and around 26mm. to center of the upper mount and it's same from both sides.
 
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