2013 EC250R - 65Hr Report/Review
- Thread starter Jakobi
- Start date
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Got a bit more time into it this afternoon.
Cleaned powervalves and assembled
New seals went into the stator side, and counter shaft as well.
Wossner A Piston went on. Rings ends set at .35mm and .38mm.
And a single 0.5mm base gasket. Same as stock.
Also did a few other misc jobs. Cleaning gasket surfaces, nuts and bolts, and that kind of mundane stuff.
Next weeks adventures will include a squish test, and making sure the chasis is nice and clean ready to take the engine.
Cleaned powervalves and assembled
New seals went into the stator side, and counter shaft as well.
Wossner A Piston went on. Rings ends set at .35mm and .38mm.
And a single 0.5mm base gasket. Same as stock.
Also did a few other misc jobs. Cleaning gasket surfaces, nuts and bolts, and that kind of mundane stuff.
Next weeks adventures will include a squish test, and making sure the chasis is nice and clean ready to take the engine.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
No pics today. Didn't do much.
Ripped a quick squish sample to make sure all was well - and it was! Then slipped the head back on with 2 x fresh o-rings. Water jacket housing on. Nice gapped BR8ES plug on the ready.
Also pulled the brake pedal and disassembled. Both inner bearings are rooted and the seals aren't real good lookin either. Will be chasing some replacement at the local store next time I'm in - along with a load of other various bearings, seals and o-rings to add to the spares kit.
Ripped a quick squish sample to make sure all was well - and it was! Then slipped the head back on with 2 x fresh o-rings. Water jacket housing on. Nice gapped BR8ES plug on the ready.
Also pulled the brake pedal and disassembled. Both inner bearings are rooted and the seals aren't real good lookin either. Will be chasing some replacement at the local store next time I'm in - along with a load of other various bearings, seals and o-rings to add to the spares kit.
liv2day
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Nice Jake - this should be stickied as there might be more saps like me who are completely terrified of pulling that much of the engine apart and doing those maintenance bits.
I definitely appreciate all the pictures, even if it's tough to know what I'm looking at sometimes (lol).
Thanks again for taking the time to outline and detail the steps you're going through; it'll be a great reference for when I need to start in on all those things myself
I definitely appreciate all the pictures, even if it's tough to know what I'm looking at sometimes (lol).
Thanks again for taking the time to outline and detail the steps you're going through; it'll be a great reference for when I need to start in on all those things myself
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Swimgarm back in place. New OEM chain slider installed.
Stator moved back into place and clutch area cleaned to be put back on.
Sprocket back on. I'll keep running the stock chain until this front is toast and then fit a fresh front sprocket and chain at the same time. The supersprox rear is still in great condition.
Note: still need to torque mounts and also the stator. Flywheel will go on too. threads on crank need a quick clean up.
Stator moved back into place and clutch area cleaned to be put back on.
Sprocket back on. I'll keep running the stock chain until this front is toast and then fit a fresh front sprocket and chain at the same time. The supersprox rear is still in great condition.
Note: still need to torque mounts and also the stator. Flywheel will go on too. threads on crank need a quick clean up.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Another quick note to self: stator, flywheel, and clutch piston all installed and torqued to spec.
Engine mounts still need to be snugged down.
Also ground down a new M6 bolt for the water pump housing. The old allen head got rounded out in a big way during removal. Gone to a traditional hex head. All cleaned up and ready for install.
Powervalve covers still need a small clean up before going back on, along with the stator cover.
This bike's starting to look good enough to sell!
Engine mounts still need to be snugged down.
Also ground down a new M6 bolt for the water pump housing. The old allen head got rounded out in a big way during removal. Gone to a traditional hex head. All cleaned up and ready for install.
Powervalve covers still need a small clean up before going back on, along with the stator cover.
This bike's starting to look good enough to sell!
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I did the allen head to torque bit, but no cigar. She was seized on the back side, and even with a flat blade slot cut into it there was nothing to be had with the impact until I got the whole housing off and onto a solid bench (after spraying some penetrating oil in from the back).
Jakobi
Super Moderator
They don't fit in the new slimmer water pump cover without modification to allow clearance. I have one here from checkpoint which I lapped down the fins some, but it was a waste of time. Need to recess from the back to allow the fins to remain useful while still allowing clearance. I've had no issues with cooling/failure with over 300hrs on stock impellors (granted they don't also have clearance issues).
Simple enough explanation?
Simple enough explanation?
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Tinkered around some more today. Pictures and progress will go up later.
Quick question for those who have worked their spooging silencers (Simmo, Trev, Steve, etc). What exactly did you do with them? Just trim it back and make it shorter, or did you remove the turbine core?
Its easy enough to cut the silencer back, and just shuffle the internals back the same amount, but I don't think that will do much in terms of stopping the drool. The packing itself wasn't that great, but I don't know if it was that bad either. Loads of buildup mainly in the back section where the air flow is doubled back on itself, which then drools down along the bottom of the packing before making its way out at the join between the silencer and pipe.
Ideally I'd like to stop the spooge. I'm considering leaving out the section of pipe and plate between the turbine and the end cap which will likely just result in more spooge getting blown out the back of the pipe, but seems like a better option than acumulating it until it overflows.
Quick question for those who have worked their spooging silencers (Simmo, Trev, Steve, etc). What exactly did you do with them? Just trim it back and make it shorter, or did you remove the turbine core?
Its easy enough to cut the silencer back, and just shuffle the internals back the same amount, but I don't think that will do much in terms of stopping the drool. The packing itself wasn't that great, but I don't know if it was that bad either. Loads of buildup mainly in the back section where the air flow is doubled back on itself, which then drools down along the bottom of the packing before making its way out at the join between the silencer and pipe.
Ideally I'd like to stop the spooge. I'm considering leaving out the section of pipe and plate between the turbine and the end cap which will likely just result in more spooge getting blown out the back of the pipe, but seems like a better option than acumulating it until it overflows.
VxZeroKnots
Gold Level Site Supporter
This thread makes me feel pretty glum about how I treat my machine. 
I tend to do things one job at a time instead of all at once, but the level of meticulousness you show is impressive!
I tend to do things one job at a time instead of all at once, but the level of meticulousness you show is impressive!
Jakobi
Super Moderator
This thread makes me feel pretty glum about how I treat my machine.
I tend to do things one job at a time instead of all at once, but the level of meticulousness you show is impressive!
Cheers
Its the bikes birthday! Have to treat it nice.
Suspensions been over serviced as I've been valving both ends and working on improving it.
I still do periodic/running maintenance/repairs as they are required, but when riding weekly its just do what needs to be done and ride.
Giving it an annual going over just helps tick all the boxes, makes it feel like a new bike, and lets you have the confidence its going to last another year without issue. I have some spare time now, so its what works!
Jake I've trimmed two of the Q stealths now and both times I've cut the silencer down to just after the 2nd hanger bracket. Removed the turbine core and just mated the end cap up to the through pipe. Works a treat no more spooge and I didn't notice any change in performance one way or the other.
I'm about to cut down the one on the '14. Although I need to straighten the pipe first, it's tweaked itself so that it rests against the airbox and has almost melted through. Not good.
I'm about to cut down the one on the '14. Although I need to straighten the pipe first, it's tweaked itself so that it rests against the airbox and has almost melted through. Not good.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
That sounds like some info I'm after. Any jetting changes after? I was thinking of leaning the clip halfa after seeing the piston wash.
I've cut 4.5" off it today, which as you say is just after the rear hanger. I think I'll follow your lead and leave the TC out of it. Later on its not hard to cut the main core down some more and drill the 2 holes to rivet the arrestor back in.
On my 2013 the pipe would also make slight contact against the airbox. I just used a few washers and shimmed it out/away. All good now. 2010 did the same thing too.
I've cut 4.5" off it today, which as you say is just after the rear hanger. I think I'll follow your lead and leave the TC out of it. Later on its not hard to cut the main core down some more and drill the 2 holes to rivet the arrestor back in.
On my 2013 the pipe would also make slight contact against the airbox. I just used a few washers and shimmed it out/away. All good now. 2010 did the same thing too.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Cleaned the carb
Installed carb and then the shock.
Torqued up all the swingarm/linkage/shock mounts as well as the engine mounts. Pulled the spacers and seals on the rear wheel, cleaned, inspected, repacked over with grease and reinstalled. Axle cleaned up and slides in and out nice and easy. Happy times down the back of the bike.
Installed carb and then the shock.
Torqued up all the swingarm/linkage/shock mounts as well as the engine mounts. Pulled the spacers and seals on the rear wheel, cleaned, inspected, repacked over with grease and reinstalled. Axle cleaned up and slides in and out nice and easy. Happy times down the back of the bike.
