2014 EC250R broken head :( Cause Unknown

blamir

New member
Gasgas was only at 15 hours. Brand new and flawless.

We passed from a bit deep water then my friend's gasgas stopped. I said plug fouled and need to clean or change. Carburetour was at factory settings. Every gasgas fouls plug if you ride it a bit slow and non performance. You have to listen Jakobi about carb settings :)

We started pull bike with rope. We were near the service. My friend often tryied tryied and tryied to start bike with bump start but no ignition. Just heard a blooppppp sound and the result.

Why it can be ? Becouse of into water? immediately after bump start?
 

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We had that problem, but it was a broken rod. Drove the piston into and almost through the head.

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For future reference it's likely best to remove the plug and try to stroke the engine over by hand, and turn the whole thing upside down if need be.

Additionally there is a drain plug for the crankcase that can be used to drain the bottom end, but in most instances you would need to drop the skidplate to access it.

There's really only two ways for water to get in - either through the carb or through the exhaust pipe. If the pipe wasn't underwater for a significant period of time, it had to come through the airbox.
 
For future reference it's likely best to remove the plug and try to stroke the engine over by hand, and turn the whole thing upside down if need be.

Additionally there is a drain plug for the crankcase that can be used to drain the bottom end, but in most instances you would need to drop the skidplate to access it.

There's really only two ways for water to get in - either through the carb or through the exhaust pipe. If the pipe wasn't underwater for a significant period of time, it had to come through the airbox.

This! I'm all too familiar with swimming.

Its so quick and easy to pull the plug on the gassers its worth while doing. Before that though. If possible drowning occurs refrain from pressing the button or kicking hard. Cycle the engine to check for additional resistance/hydraulic locking. If felt, as above. Drain cases, pipe, carb, airbox. Standard dewatering 101.
 
I'm pretty sure there's a cylinder head available in the Parts category of the Classifieds. :)
 
That cylinder was full of water. You can still see the remnants of water on top of the piston


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If the rod would have been bent it would have busted the bottom of the cylinder. A bent rod would not have the reach to take out the very top of the head. That is the direct result of trying to bump start a bike that is being towed that has a cylinder full of water


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Full of water is right, but it's not even that much. (F5) or Jake can likely give the number to the third decimal but your available volume is only on the order of 20cc or so before the incompressibility of the fluid faces off with the ductility of the casting.
 
Depending on the capacity of the engine, and the squish clearance, and compression ratio, the trapped volume will vary a bit from bike to bike but like Steve said, its doesn't take a whole lot of fluid to cause issues.

Turning over slowly you'll have a better chance of potentially pushing excess fluid out the exhaust port (depending on the position of the piston), and will feel it get tight before damage is done. Banging on the electric start is a good way to cause issues, and in the case here may have caused some initial damage and then pumped itself out while being towed, however each cycle was still compressing air. Only a matter of time before it let go.

On the bright side.. At least you already had the tow rig setup.
 
I've seen my bike shoot a jet of water out the plug hole about 3M in the air :D Definitely works out quicker and easier to pick up on the clues and dewater initially than to try and just do the cheeky. Hope you source some parts for reasonable prices.
 
Pipe was not under water. It is a bit deep but not too much. It was a short river. How can bike intake so much water :confused: . I do not know what is the all damage . I hope only in head.

Thanks.
 
The air box will take in water before the pipe ever does. Since air passes through the filter, water will too. The only thing that helps is to use a petroleum based filter oil. It will resist light splashing better than an alcohol based filter oil. Any heavy splashing will go through either type. Plan on dewatering any time the water level reaches the bottom of your air box. A little dip in the stream bottom can cause water to enter quickly. You are often paying attention to slimy rocks and don't notice the depth change as you bounce along. Any time you stall the engine when water is higher than the top of your tires, check for water in the airbox (or engine) when the bike is pulled out.

The multi-piece construction of modern airboxes is not suitable for significant water crossings. The old one-piece molded airboxes were much better, but you could easily drown them too. I remember pictures of the Blackwater Enduro where many bikes were equipped with snorkels.
 
Giving it a big handful of revs also increases the sucking effect at the filter and makes it much easier to pull water through the filter into the engine.

I've gone through pleanty of deep water without any issues. I've also seen them take on water. At least 2 ktms have been rebuilt in the last 12 months here due to taking in dirty water.

My advice re the engine now is fully pull it down. Do the job right the first time.
 
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