I am of similar weight and i only feel as though i need to go one up on the springs in the forks and i run a 5.6 from memory on the ohlins shock. i wonder if the not great feelings in the forks are to heavy springs? As for the rear the ohlins don't need a heavy spring imo but the reiger is a new game so see how you go.
2014 Gas Gas EC300R
- Thread starter n_green
- Start date
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I run a 5.6 rate in my 2010 model, but only a 5.2 in the new bike. I tried a 5.4 and it felt way too stiff and had the back deflecting off everything. I kept it on for only one short ride.
I do feel that I could use a bit more spring up front though, which is likely due to the slack PFP springs I have in my bike. I really should get some washers and shim it out so that it works the way it was designed to. I have ordered a set of .44 (along with nato). At that point I'll probably service the shock, shuffle a few shims and move back to a heavier spring.
I do feel that I could use a bit more spring up front though, which is likely due to the slack PFP springs I have in my bike. I really should get some washers and shim it out so that it works the way it was designed to. I have ordered a set of .44 (along with nato). At that point I'll probably service the shock, shuffle a few shims and move back to a heavier spring.
I ended up speaking with Dave (suspension matters) and he advised me to stick with the rear rate and drop the forks to .48's.
He is hopefully sending the fork springs to me along with a collar to take up the slop in the spring.
Hopefully I'll get them installed by the weekend and get the carts nice and bled then go for another ride and see how they feel.
He is hopefully sending the fork springs to me along with a collar to take up the slop in the spring.
Hopefully I'll get them installed by the weekend and get the carts nice and bled then go for another ride and see how they feel.
I am certainly no expert on suspension quite the opposite but do you think it would have been a good idea to ride the bike with the stock suspension and jetting just so you had a feel for what you needed to change instead of changing spring weights and jetting only to need to change it again? Im not having a dig at your way of setting up your bike and every man to himself with his gear but just wondering?
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I didn't bother with the stock jetting, but had a ride on the stock suspension/chasis/engine before starting on the changes.
Its an odd one though, because I know I'm running more preload than I'd like to get the right sag figures, but the static and race sags are within the spec I'm after and the shock is working acceptably. In comparison going to a heavier spring allowed me to run a bit less preload, but the shock handled like crap.
On the other hand, I started with a 5.4 rate on the TTX on the 2010 model and it was OK but a bit firm overall and backing out the LSC only made it ride lower in the stroke and slam hard into square edges. In the end I went up another rate on the spring to a 5.6, dropped the clamp shim one size and a larger OD crossover. Good LSC to hold it up in the stroke, but soft enough on the HSC when slamming square edges.
Its an odd one though, because I know I'm running more preload than I'd like to get the right sag figures, but the static and race sags are within the spec I'm after and the shock is working acceptably. In comparison going to a heavier spring allowed me to run a bit less preload, but the shock handled like crap.
On the other hand, I started with a 5.4 rate on the TTX on the 2010 model and it was OK but a bit firm overall and backing out the LSC only made it ride lower in the stroke and slam hard into square edges. In the end I went up another rate on the spring to a 5.6, dropped the clamp shim one size and a larger OD crossover. Good LSC to hold it up in the stroke, but soft enough on the HSC when slamming square edges.
I must admit I did think about it, but at the end of the day, why? I would have been putting off the inevitable.
I've ridden the N1EF needle and whilst it was on a different bike a poo power delivery is a poo power delivery. Even with this new bike liking a richer setting a stupidly short straight section will always cause a rich burbling loaded up engine in the singles.
Also I honestly believed that this engine and the '13 engine would be the same, so
I was expecting to plug in Simmos jetting and let the good times roll
Regarding the suspension, didn't even consider it, I'm 95kg and weigh 115kg geared up. Stock springs would never cut the mustard. The right springs make a huge difference in the handling of the bike, alas at the expense of stock rebound control, but when I bought this bike I knew I would be re springing it, revalving it and getting the squish corrected.
The heavy springs currently on it were off the '11 so they didn't cost me anything. And prior to deciding what valving changes (if any) are required you must be running the correct springs, correct sags and the suspension fluid you will be valving with. So I mainly did it to get a head start on what I think ill need to do when I finally start shuffling the shims.
I remember my first modern dirtbike - a '04
KTM 300. I put a JD jetting kit in it at the recommended settings, then ride the bejeesus out of it. Never changed the jetting again, never touched the sags or even clickers let alone revalve, and I didn't mind it. Sometimes I think knowing the bike can be better and knowing how to get it better is a curse, if I was the old ignorant me I'd be spending all my time riding it, not working on it
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I remember my first modern dirtbike - a '04
KTM 300. I put a JD jetting kit in it at the recommended settings, then ride the bejeesus out of it. Never changed the jetting again, never touched the sags or even clickers let alone revalve, and I didn't mind it. Sometimes I think knowing the bike can be better and knowing how to get it better is a curse, if I was the old ignorant me I'd be spending all my time riding it, not working on it
Isn't it true! My old 04 WR250F didn't see much more than fresh oil and air filters..
I certainly agree with the jetting mine like everyone else had the n1ef and i didn't really like it to say the least. As for the suspension i rode mine for a while to see how everything felt then started changing things, I know what your saying regarding the more you learn things can be better the more you change it. I guess I'm only just learning how a bike can change so much from the suspension changes. I have always been a buy and ride guy until this bike (
i am blaming the forums as they teach you so much from others experience)
Anyway back to this '14 how do you like the seat removal setup? Can the seat be taken right away or does it just layoff to the side with the battery cables?
Also when changing to the new frame did you think it was less vibey like i did?
i am blaming the forums as they teach you so much from others experience)
Anyway back to this '14 how do you like the seat removal setup? Can the seat be taken right away or does it just layoff to the side with the battery cables?
Also when changing to the new frame did you think it was less vibey like i did?
The seat is a bit annoying, 8mm bolt at the back and then remove by flipping it over to the rhs of the bike where it hangs on a securing strap and the battery cables. Doesn't really get in the way though and now there's a light lithium in there not a 50kg lead acid battery there isn't much weight on the strap or cables.
I haven't noticed any vibes yet, but my only ride has been through a rock garden. Once I get to open it up a bit more and cruise on fire trails I'll be able to tell. Sitting on it and revving it feels less vibey through the bars, but not too different through the pegs.
I haven't noticed any vibes yet, but my only ride has been through a rock garden. Once I get to open it up a bit more and cruise on fire trails I'll be able to tell. Sitting on it and revving it feels less vibey through the bars, but not too different through the pegs.
CombatYoga
Gold Level Site Supporter
That's really interesting n_green - I found exactly the opposite on my '14 EC300R.
Not a noticeable amount of vibration through the bars, but a good bit of buzzing in my feet.
There is however one major caveat. I have been riding a YZ450f for the last few years.
This is my first 2T in a looooong time. So my recent comparison is with a 4T.
I'm running stock bars and Fastway pegs.
I have a HS race this coming weekend so I'll report back afterwards.
Not a noticeable amount of vibration through the bars, but a good bit of buzzing in my feet.
There is however one major caveat. I have been riding a YZ450f for the last few years.
This is my first 2T in a looooong time. So my recent comparison is with a 4T.
I'm running stock bars and Fastway pegs.
I have a HS race this coming weekend so I'll report back afterwards.
I threw a N3CW #3 and 42 pilot in it this afternoon. I just warmed it up and rode it round the backyard and then set about getting a feel for the bottom end of the revs (bike on the stand, no load).
The idle is much better, it's stronger and not as low. The air screw settled on about 3/4 out. The bike is super sensitive to AS changes at the moment, 1 turn out and it gets a lean bog when wicking the throttle open, .5 turn out and the idle drops below idle and is prone to stalling.
With the AS at 3/4 the response off idle seems good, it revs cleanly and settles back down to the nice idle in a reasonable time frame. Revving the engine at 1/8 throttle sounds good, lovely and clean with no burble. just after 1/8 throttle it leans right off and starts to rev high, I need to be on the bike riding it to test any further but I reckon with load on it it will be ok.
It also became noticeably vibier at idle and just above with the new needle, both through the pegs and through the seat. The bars are nice and insulated though, not much vibration through them at all.
Hoping to get out for a ride in the next few days, be interesting to see how it goes.
The idle is much better, it's stronger and not as low. The air screw settled on about 3/4 out. The bike is super sensitive to AS changes at the moment, 1 turn out and it gets a lean bog when wicking the throttle open, .5 turn out and the idle drops below idle and is prone to stalling.
With the AS at 3/4 the response off idle seems good, it revs cleanly and settles back down to the nice idle in a reasonable time frame. Revving the engine at 1/8 throttle sounds good, lovely and clean with no burble. just after 1/8 throttle it leans right off and starts to rev high, I need to be on the bike riding it to test any further but I reckon with load on it it will be ok.
It also became noticeably vibier at idle and just above with the new needle, both through the pegs and through the seat. The bars are nice and insulated though, not much vibration through them at all.
Hoping to get out for a ride in the next few days, be interesting to see how it goes.
After my second ride I'm really really happy with this bike. Rode pretty fast sandy twin trail today and this bike eats it for breakfast.
Best thing I did was upgrade to this bike from my '11
A few small niggles - the top shroud mount grommets have fallen out on both sides.
The e start still works every time but is squealing a bit so I'll open it up for a look and probably wet mod it at the same time.
The kick starter bolt vibrated loose first ride, red loctite stopped that.
I noticed while washing it today that the tank is rubbing on the seat retaining bracket. I'll be gluing a bit of rubber on the bracket to stop that.
Apart from those small easily addressed issues this bike rocks!
Best thing I did was upgrade to this bike from my '11
A few small niggles - the top shroud mount grommets have fallen out on both sides.
The e start still works every time but is squealing a bit so I'll open it up for a look and probably wet mod it at the same time.
The kick starter bolt vibrated loose first ride, red loctite stopped that.
I noticed while washing it today that the tank is rubbing on the seat retaining bracket. I'll be gluing a bit of rubber on the bracket to stop that.
Apart from those small easily addressed issues this bike rocks!
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Next time I drop my oil (read have the bash plate off), I'll have a squiz and see if I've still got the hole in my 2013 cases. I've never had any issues with crap in mine or corrosion on the stator/flywheel but its probably caked with mud most the time, and all our water is fresh. No starter gears to bind and grind either.
Bit of maintenance tonight to get it ready for an upcoming ride.
First on the agenda was the fitment of a carb vent filter http://www.7602racing.com/prod_t6cf.php as after my last ride in the sand I noticed a few specks of sand/dust in the vent hoses only a few inches from the carb outlets?! Can this migrate its way into the carb and on towards the engine?
Anyway this vent filter will put a stop to that.
I obviously pulled the carb and cleaned it out, no signs of sand/dust in the carb but still, a worry that sand made its way that far up the hoses.
Fixed up the fuel tank as it was starting to rub in places previously pointed out by others (mainly where it butts against the seat holding bracket) - used a hammer to bend this tab away from the tank and then glued a bit of rubber on it which should prevent it rubbing through the tank. Also made the hole in front of the fuel cap larger so when I bolt it down it doesn't place pressure on the tank in any certain direction.
Last thing I did was fix up the bottom LHS subframe mount - one of the two holes didn't line up properly, meaning the M6 bolt would start threading itself into the aluminium subframe threads at an angle, obviously this wasn't going to end well, so I had to enlarge the hole in the frame by 1mm to give it enough room to allow the bolt to thread in straight. I also re-tapped the thread the clean it up. Works good as gold now.
Good preventative maintenance mainly, however in a perfect world, with the exception of the vent hose filter I really shouldn't need to do it to a brand new 2014 model bike. We'll chalk it up to owning an exotic bike... :roll eyes:
First on the agenda was the fitment of a carb vent filter http://www.7602racing.com/prod_t6cf.php as after my last ride in the sand I noticed a few specks of sand/dust in the vent hoses only a few inches from the carb outlets?! Can this migrate its way into the carb and on towards the engine?
Anyway this vent filter will put a stop to that.
I obviously pulled the carb and cleaned it out, no signs of sand/dust in the carb but still, a worry that sand made its way that far up the hoses.
Fixed up the fuel tank as it was starting to rub in places previously pointed out by others (mainly where it butts against the seat holding bracket) - used a hammer to bend this tab away from the tank and then glued a bit of rubber on it which should prevent it rubbing through the tank. Also made the hole in front of the fuel cap larger so when I bolt it down it doesn't place pressure on the tank in any certain direction.
Last thing I did was fix up the bottom LHS subframe mount - one of the two holes didn't line up properly, meaning the M6 bolt would start threading itself into the aluminium subframe threads at an angle, obviously this wasn't going to end well, so I had to enlarge the hole in the frame by 1mm to give it enough room to allow the bolt to thread in straight. I also re-tapped the thread the clean it up. Works good as gold now.
Good preventative maintenance mainly, however in a perfect world, with the exception of the vent hose filter I really shouldn't need to do it to a brand new 2014 model bike. We'll chalk it up to owning an exotic bike... :roll eyes:
Fred1956
New member
^^^^^^^^Bugger!^^^^^^^^^
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