2018 EC250 Build up

I just had the same experience with the bolts on my rads. The mounts must be pre-threaded before they get welded to the frame. I just ran a tap through them and they were fine. Just installed BPD rad braces, shock pivot guard and chain slider mount guard. Other than the bolt threads, this bike is way easier to work on than anything else I have owned. The electrical is pretty tidy too.
 
For the starter just pull the small bendix cover and lube the bendix with a light coat of grease. There is ZERO issue with the inner mechanical workings of the e-start system. The issue all along has been small cables and a bad CDI map. Leave the starter on and enjoy it.


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Curious what settings you settled on with the NEDW? I never could get it to work, was always rich on bottom and lean on top


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I've pulled the whole starter so I can turn the flywheel over to take the squish sample. I haven't started the bike yet so can't comment on where I'll end up jetting wise. It could be a case that the NEDW doesn't work well with this engine. It has run flawlessly in my previous donk for 200hrs with a nice linear pull from top to bottom (40 NEDW#2 175).

Changes in the port layout and ignition could throw all that out the window though, as my 2010 didn't gel with the NE needles and always ran better with N3CW#3.
 
Seal up the starter cover, add a breather tube and run some 2.5w or 5w fork oil. The action of the bendix is so much quicker and the lube actually gets flung around on the gears etc rather than just stuck to the wall of the cover like grease. I like the NEDW in my 300. I think it?ll work well in yours too. I think it is just a euro thing that at least one bolt is galled up or cross threaded...
 
Did you drill and tap a breather into the cover?

I think it wouldn't be a GG if it didn't have at least a few quirks.

The tank is full of plastic shards left over from manufacture. Also some green oil, almost like they had a little fuel in the tank at some stage and drained it.

I may have a slow weep from the sump plug. Not a hard fix. Found some oil along the frame rail and bash plate. Have cleaned and left the bike propped up on a piece of cardboard overnight.

Going to measure the squish tomorrow. Everything ready to go, just need to pull the head and throw some solder in there.

Need to start ordering parts soon!!!
 
Yeah I drilled and tapped a 5mm vacuum fitting in there. I have got pics on here of it somewhere. That mod and the leads has mine starting all the time on the stock battery. Yep very true! Cannot wait to hear your first ride report!
 
Did you see my post on the 2015 revised starter thread? Not sure if still the same but the small cover the 6mm steel shaft runs dry in plain ally (!@#!!) while Mrs small gear tries to get away from Mr big gear machining a groove as she goes.

I've just inserted a bush (small hole see pic) there but will try the oil bath method. Wasn't going to use a breather but maybe not a bad idea. Mate's bike so he's the guinea pig. I'll just keep with me old kicker pretending not to be jealous.
 

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I like my old kick booter lever! Although I think I've half worn the teeth off the shaft of my 2013. Bit of slop in errr.

The ktm starters always used a small plastic bush. They'd wear out quickly but were easy enough to change.

I can have a look at mine and see if they've updated the design; I doubt they have though.

Took a couple squish measurements today.. Coming in around 1.55-1.6mm at the edge, which isn't what I was expecting and almost alright. Leads me to the next question though.. I wonder where the comp ratio is at. Looks like I'll be cc'ing the head and crunching some numbers.
 
Bet you still need to adjust the angle to piston. My 300 is just under 1mm currently. But with a heap out of the chamber obviously.
 
Without a doubt F5. I'll just send it along with a few squish samples to someone who knows what they're doing :D
 
Did you see my post on the 2015 revised starter thread? Not sure if still the same but the small cover the 6mm steel shaft runs dry in plain ally (!@#!!) while Mrs small gear tries to get away from Mr big gear machining a groove as she goes.

I've just inserted a bush (small hole see pic) there but will try the oil bath method. Wasn't going to use a breather but maybe not a bad idea. Mate's bike so he's the guinea pig. I'll just keep with me old kicker pretending not to be jealous.

That is half the reason I wet modded mine. I seen a 2015 a while back that was looking a bit average there. And about a million worn out ktm ones.
 
That is half the reason I wet modded mine. I seen a 2015 a while back that was looking a bit average there. And about a million worn out ktm ones.

Tis the reason I'm considering putting it all in a box and a nice plastic cover over the flywheel. Surely I've gone mad!
 
Head going into the mailbox today!

P-Tech radiator braces ordered!

Rear wheel isn't very well aligned in the swingarm, but it'll be coming off for some rubber of choice at some stage anyway.

Got the Renthal twinwalls off the old girl cleaned up and into the new one. Next stop will be along the lines of pulling the carb, chasing an NEDW needle down, fitting motion pro throttle cable and getting rid of that pull choke.
 
Ptech braces fit really well! Happy as a pig in it..

Have opted to pull the chain and rear sprocket straight up. Have a low hour used DID VX2 and Supersprox stealth 50T that I'll throw on.

Still waiting for the head to come back, and tossing up OEM bashy vs AXP Extreme.

Seeing what I can get a BPD swingarm guard for in Australia. Distributer is after $140+ postage selling to the public. I might be able to improve on this, otherwise I'll be taking my chances.
 
Mine was pretty loose..

Ahh man! I didn't really want to have to go dropping the side cover off just yet!

Next question, appears the RHS pv cover is using a thicker gasket than I am used to. Is it required for clearance issues? I think I have a couple normal ones here still.
 
Ahh man! I didn't really want to have to go dropping the side cover off just yet!

Next question, appears the RHS pv cover is using a thicker gasket than I am used to. Is it required for clearance issues? I think I have a couple normal ones here still.

Yep you are all over it. The right hand side assembly is different to earlier ones. Be reall careful taking it of, mine was stuck down tight on one side. Depends too on where you run the adjustment screw as well. Mine is out pretty far, about three turns.
 
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