2018 EC250 Build up
- Thread starter Jakobi
- Start date
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Slip slop slapped the lass back together.. Picked up a few more 'isssues' along the way..
Renthal twinwalls don't leave much room between the throttle and brake perch for the kill switch.. It fits, but took some juggling.
A couple teeth on the starter ring gear look like they've been impacted a bit. Took a photo and sent off to the dealer. Not sure if they just look like that as they break in. Bendix looked fine though which was quite interesting. Considered wet mod, but left as is for now.
With Ptech braces they move the rads out a bee's from stock.. and also hold the shrouds away a bit more requiring a longer bolt. LHS lower rad shroud mount had been crossed at the factory I think, either that or I effortlessly cross threaded it using an 8mm socket on a screw driver handle. I think it was crossed in enough for the shorter stock bolt but the longer one I was using hit the end of the line. Tapped out and all good.
As mentioned earlier some galling on the last thread of the tank mount from factory. Replaced bolt and could only get in so far. Ended up tapping a bit more, but I think the real issue was a load of left overs from welding process. I used a magnetic tip to pull most out, then flushed and blasted with compressed air.. happy days.
Next problem, shrouds pulled down into place and the tank mounted and there was contact between the rad outlet/coolant line and the tank on the lhs only. Much time lost digging around for the right bits to try and space things. Ended up with a rubber grommet going under the tank (on the mount) to lift everything enough to allow clearance. I also slid some old tube cut to shape along the frame to support the top some more. I may tinker for a neater solution and will need to monitor wear, but I've now got a couple mm's clearance between tank and rads.
Seat needs a firm push and hold to get the bolt back in place now, given that the tank position has moved a touch.
I also managed to all but strip out one of the plastic screws that holds the exhaust side number plate and battery box in place. Bastard.. Filled with some silicone and put in place. She'll be right!
So she's been one of those days where challenges have drawn the time out.. but in the end we had a win. I was still knobbin around in the shed when the missus got home from work, and the meat I'd taken out for dinner had defrosted to the point of being suspicious. Worked around that too, and somehow didn't get in trouble so not all is bad!
Running minimal wiring harness and have tapped off any plugs I won't be using after packing with grease. All other connections have had a nice packing too.
I didn't upgrade any earth cables or such, but did sand back the paint on the mounting bracket/flywheel cover. I'm yet to hold the electric start button as a light tap is all it has taken to fire to life.. EVEN from cold.
Bike has only done a couple laps around the yard and a few monos.. 1st - 2nd gear only. Bumped the idle speed up just a touch; slide is not notched on this one. Seems to run pretty clean and grunty.
I haven't thrown a leg for so long I can't remember what the old one felt like.. But in a pair of pluggers and no riding gear the new one feels pretty tall. I think it'll squat down some when I'm geared up. I haven't touched the sag/rear spring preload at all yet.
Happy days! Now to tee up a session in the bush.
Renthal twinwalls don't leave much room between the throttle and brake perch for the kill switch.. It fits, but took some juggling.
A couple teeth on the starter ring gear look like they've been impacted a bit. Took a photo and sent off to the dealer. Not sure if they just look like that as they break in. Bendix looked fine though which was quite interesting. Considered wet mod, but left as is for now.
With Ptech braces they move the rads out a bee's from stock.. and also hold the shrouds away a bit more requiring a longer bolt. LHS lower rad shroud mount had been crossed at the factory I think, either that or I effortlessly cross threaded it using an 8mm socket on a screw driver handle. I think it was crossed in enough for the shorter stock bolt but the longer one I was using hit the end of the line. Tapped out and all good.
As mentioned earlier some galling on the last thread of the tank mount from factory. Replaced bolt and could only get in so far. Ended up tapping a bit more, but I think the real issue was a load of left overs from welding process. I used a magnetic tip to pull most out, then flushed and blasted with compressed air.. happy days.
Next problem, shrouds pulled down into place and the tank mounted and there was contact between the rad outlet/coolant line and the tank on the lhs only. Much time lost digging around for the right bits to try and space things. Ended up with a rubber grommet going under the tank (on the mount) to lift everything enough to allow clearance. I also slid some old tube cut to shape along the frame to support the top some more. I may tinker for a neater solution and will need to monitor wear, but I've now got a couple mm's clearance between tank and rads.
Seat needs a firm push and hold to get the bolt back in place now, given that the tank position has moved a touch.
I also managed to all but strip out one of the plastic screws that holds the exhaust side number plate and battery box in place. Bastard.. Filled with some silicone and put in place. She'll be right!
So she's been one of those days where challenges have drawn the time out.. but in the end we had a win. I was still knobbin around in the shed when the missus got home from work, and the meat I'd taken out for dinner had defrosted to the point of being suspicious. Worked around that too, and somehow didn't get in trouble so not all is bad!
Running minimal wiring harness and have tapped off any plugs I won't be using after packing with grease. All other connections have had a nice packing too.
I didn't upgrade any earth cables or such, but did sand back the paint on the mounting bracket/flywheel cover. I'm yet to hold the electric start button as a light tap is all it has taken to fire to life.. EVEN from cold.
Bike has only done a couple laps around the yard and a few monos.. 1st - 2nd gear only. Bumped the idle speed up just a touch; slide is not notched on this one. Seems to run pretty clean and grunty.
I haven't thrown a leg for so long I can't remember what the old one felt like.. But in a pair of pluggers and no riding gear the new one feels pretty tall. I think it'll squat down some when I'm geared up. I haven't touched the sag/rear spring preload at all yet.
Happy days! Now to tee up a session in the bush.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
What sag settings are you all running??
I haven't touched the preload on anything, or broken anything in yet..
Front
free around 33mm, race 67mm
Rear
free 30mm, race 105mm
I didn't gear up for race sag, just in casual clothes so could easily add a few more mms here and there, and it'll probably sag some more as it beds in. Good starting points though for sure, with some room for adjustment.
May end up having to wind a bit more preload onto the shock spring yet, but somewhat hesitant as she already stands a bit tall.
Better check the clickers too!
I haven't touched the preload on anything, or broken anything in yet..
Front
free around 33mm, race 67mm
Rear
free 30mm, race 105mm
I didn't gear up for race sag, just in casual clothes so could easily add a few more mms here and there, and it'll probably sag some more as it beds in. Good starting points though for sure, with some room for adjustment.
May end up having to wind a bit more preload onto the shock spring yet, but somewhat hesitant as she already stands a bit tall.
Better check the clickers too!
CDN Rick
Silver Level Site Supporter
I'd have to check everything... My sag was at 103 in the rear last I checked a month or two ago. I took a bit of rebound out of the rear shock from the middle settings, and I took compression and rebound out of the front. I'm pretty happy with where everything is at right now. Time for new oil though. This has the better part of season on it and is well past its prime.
Weighing in at 173lbs in street clothes and standing 5'11" I'm about the perfect starting size for factory settings. So that works in my favour.
is it the same sensor as KTM/Trailtech/older sensor?
If so look for an m8 NO (normally open) reed switch, plastic or metal body.
I have replaced mine for around 3quid.
I have a bit of 1/4" ID PVC tube that I pass the wires though and onto the stock cable and push over the end of the sensor. The tube serves to waterproof things and protect the wires.
I have small crimp terminals for both the sensor and stock cable, so I can replace the sensor in 5mins with little cost.
Not a fix to prevent breaking it, but much cheaper lol.
If so look for an m8 NO (normally open) reed switch, plastic or metal body.
I have replaced mine for around 3quid.
I have a bit of 1/4" ID PVC tube that I pass the wires though and onto the stock cable and push over the end of the sensor. The tube serves to waterproof things and protect the wires.
I have small crimp terminals for both the sensor and stock cable, so I can replace the sensor in 5mins with little cost.
Not a fix to prevent breaking it, but much cheaper lol.
Similar threads
