RudolfHucker
New member
Ouch!
Did you get it sorted out by your dealer / importer?
Did you get it sorted out by your dealer / importer?
2019 EC300 Engine Vibration
- Thread starter RudolfHucker
- Start date
Davehuge
Member
There was another thread on here recently where someone was having really strange problems...wouldn't start with electric start, when he used kick starter it kept kicking back and snapping the kick starter, it was gradually getting worse.
In the end it turned out the Woodruff key that locates the flywheel had sheared allowing the flywheel to rotate on the crank bit by bit, sending the ignition timing further and further out.
I can only assume this was caused by the flywheel nut not being tightened/torqued correctly or it wasn't locking the flywheel onto the taper of the crankshaft because of a defective part.
Here it is... http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24011&highlight=breaking+kick+start
In the end it turned out the Woodruff key that locates the flywheel had sheared allowing the flywheel to rotate on the crank bit by bit, sending the ignition timing further and further out.
I can only assume this was caused by the flywheel nut not being tightened/torqued correctly or it wasn't locking the flywheel onto the taper of the crankshaft because of a defective part.
Here it is... http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24011&highlight=breaking+kick+start
Yeah. To their credit, the dealer drove 4 hours each way to pick it up, and it was good as new in a few days.
RudolfHucker
New member
Excellent service. You should post the dealer's name.
RudolfHucker
New member
Fitted the replacement crank end nut this afternoon and the bike is back together now. Not made any difference to the vibration levels at all as the original nut was solid.
According to the UK importer, the nut spec has been changed from alloy to steel and this will be a mandatory replacement for existing bikes.
As has been mentioned on here before, I believe, the torque spec for the nut in the 2018 workshop manual is incorrect. It is quoted as 40 Nm but should be much higher. I have looked at the equivalent settings for KTM, Beta and Yamaha and have averaged these out at 100 Nm with blue threadlocker.
According to the UK importer, the nut spec has been changed from alloy to steel and this will be a mandatory replacement for existing bikes.
As has been mentioned on here before, I believe, the torque spec for the nut in the 2018 workshop manual is incorrect. It is quoted as 40 Nm but should be much higher. I have looked at the equivalent settings for KTM, Beta and Yamaha and have averaged these out at 100 Nm with blue threadlocker.
Davehuge
Member
I don't think the material the nut is made from or what it's torqued to will have any affect on vibration, as long as the pinion is secure.
I suspect the source of the vibration will be the crankshaft.
Good luck and I hope you get it sorted without too much hassle.
All the best, Dave.
I suspect the source of the vibration will be the crankshaft.
Good luck and I hope you get it sorted without too much hassle.
All the best, Dave.
RudolfHucker
New member
I didn't expect any difference from what I did, tbh. The faulty batch of alloy nuts were very bad tolerance on the thread and the contact surface between nut and shaft was minimal, hence them shaking loose. GasGas works bikes have suffered from this problem.
I agree that the crank is the most likely issue. I think that the issue is getting worse even though the bike only has 12 hours on it. The vibration through the frame is shocking and enough to make the front wheel rotate by itself. I am sure that it would lead to frame cracks even if the engine does not shake itself to bits before that.
I agree that the crank is the most likely issue. I think that the issue is getting worse even though the bike only has 12 hours on it. The vibration through the frame is shocking and enough to make the front wheel rotate by itself. I am sure that it would lead to frame cracks even if the engine does not shake itself to bits before that.
It was my bike that DaveHuge referred to earlier. The nut wasn't too tight but tight anyway when I opened it (felt like 40 Nm). The Flywheel had a spur in the recess for the Woodruff key, which I had to remove to make it fit better on the cone. Don't know if it was there in the beginning or if it was induced after the Woodruff key had been broken.
40 Nm felt low when I compared it to the 100 Nm of my 125 Husky, but I guess the torque is also depending on the angle of the cone. Used the 40 Nm as manual stated, no problems so far.
RudolfHucker
New member
Took the bike back to the dealer today. Not really a lot to report other than he claimed not to have have an answer to the issue so he offered and I have accepted a full refund.
Can't fault him and he was straight up with no arguement. I didn't ask for a refund and would have been happy with a repair or replacement had it been a known problem.
So I am busy reversing all the mods I have made, (all cosmetic and 100% reversible) and then it's going back. A mixture of relief and sadness as I couldn't ride it as it is but was really looking forward to riding it without the vibration.
Just as well I hadn't sold my previous bike. Just hope that next year's model has a balancer shaft and I'll be back.
Can't fault him and he was straight up with no arguement. I didn't ask for a refund and would have been happy with a repair or replacement had it been a known problem.
So I am busy reversing all the mods I have made, (all cosmetic and 100% reversible) and then it's going back. A mixture of relief and sadness as I couldn't ride it as it is but was really looking forward to riding it without the vibration.
Just as well I hadn't sold my previous bike. Just hope that next year's model has a balancer shaft and I'll be back.
