84 RM 250 E Ground UP Full Restoration

Sheesh. Anyway let's not pollute the poor guys thread with anymore life's disappointments stuff.

Save your "poor guy" bullshit.
And nobody cares what you haven't seen.Which you can't quite get over.

Their is a back story here where the "know" can be very important when everyone including the original manufacturer is telling you that you have a problem.And the one guy that should know is telling you that you don't have a problem.
 
What Happens When You Park Your Bike and Leave it for 26 Years

This bike is 33 years old, it has been sitting in a garage for 26 years.

I split the cases on Saturday, here is what everything looked like so far.

Before you touch anything have one of these.This is the Genuine Suzuki manual and I was skeptical when I bought it. Its a small sized book, but it actually is a shop manual with step by step pictures on splitting the cases and all other procedures.
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I used a Tusk case splitter, it works really well. I just made sure the splitter was level with the cases and I slowly pulled them apart. I had to loosen the splitter a few times to make sure the cases came apart evenly.
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Here is the inside. No damage from failed components etc, just damage from neglect. Check out the water line on the crank and the case.
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The Transmission looked just fine, all the cogs were good and the bearings are fine.
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I had to wait until my puller arrived to remove the flywheel. I have six flywheel puller none were the right type. I bought a round puller but it was too wide to line up to the two holes on the flywheel. Those two holes are 29mm apart so I searched for a puller that would work.
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Ok this is the puller that works for the 84 RM 250 E. It is a oem puller for a KTM 50 SR/JR Part Number 59029021044 believe it or not...lol....
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Here it is mounted up. Its made much better than the other pullers that I have seen and the 3 sets of bolts are much higher quality. This puller width is about 28mm min and adjusts to a much larger width as well. This puller worked really well, I think a cheaper puller would have broken taking off this flywheel. Good tool, worth the money.
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IF Have a Bike Stored in Your Garage, Change the Oil and Start it Every Other Month

I pressed the crank out of the case without any problem.Here is what it looked like.The rod looks like new but the lower rod bearing is seized with rust.I am going to send the crank to the machine shop for a beadblast, rebuild and balance.
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Both main bearings are completely seized with rust. Some sludge in the bottom of the cases but the bike had never been run with the old oil,so the transmission gears, forks and bearings were clean.The cases should clean up well.
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PowderCoat, Anodize or Cerkote?

Here is where we are at the moment. I going to have the cases beadblasted and refinished. The original motor color is black. Which coating and color should we use? What does everyone think?:D

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Make sure they aren't too aggressive with media. Done right that will give a great key for the paint if grease fully cleaned. Done wrong it will shred the thin ally. Make sure they know what they're doing.


PJ1 used to give a great finish, apparently the formula has had to change but I'd try it for sure.
 
Make sure they aren't too aggressive with media. Done right that will give a great key for the paint if grease fully cleaned. Done wrong it will shred the thin ally. Make sure they know what they're doing.


PJ1 used to give a great finish, apparently the formula has had to change but I'd try it for sure.

Thanks ! Some of the parts on this bike are magnesium. Can you anodize magnesium? Does anybody know?

I just wondered why we do not see the lighter magnesium parts on the modern race bikes. I heard stories about F1 cars, Niki Lauda's Ferrari that he crashed at Nurburgring in 1976, used a lot of magnesium parts and that they were prone catch fire and burn at an intense heat range. Here is Lauda's crash.

https://jalopnik.com/forty-years-ago-f1-drivers-saved-niki-lauda-from-a-fier-1784656102

I saw this FAA article some magnesium must be in a molten state before it can ignite.
https://www.fire.tc.faa.gov/pdf/ar11-13.pdf
 
I am trying to match up a color code to powdercoat my frame.

Here is a shot of the frame, however most of the frame color is darker than the stock color because someone painted a darker blue on parts of the frame with a brush.(a brush, I kid you not.)
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After checking several colors, I found this RAL CODE 5015 which is a 79 Bultaco Color.

http://www.ralcolor.com/

Does this look close to the original Suzuki color?
 
In short anodising (however you wish to spell it) can be applied to a certain range of Allys with good sucess but some just won't be successful. Cast used to also be a virtual no no. But sort of recently the high pressure casting technology with the right alloy works.
So no to your cast cases.
My old 1980 TT500 had sidecover marked Magnesium so people didn't try Weld it inappropriately. Still used in manufacturing but more expensive.
 
Colour? Don't ask me I'm colour blind, but PJ1 used to do a grey that looked like the RM colour of some years and I painted my Suzuki roadrace engines and they looked quite smart.
Some mates put an old bent roadrace mag on the bonfire and apparently it went up quite a treat. But they couldn't put it out when campground owner complained.
There were stories about the Shefield that got lite up in Falkland war back in the 80s being made with Magnesium, but apparently that was (wait for it. . ) fake news.
 
In short anodising (however you wish to spell it) can be applied to a certain range of Allys with good sucess but some just won't be successful. Cast used to also be a virtual no no. But sort of recently the high pressure casting technology with the right alloy works.
So no to your cast cases.
My old 1980 TT500 had sidecover marked Magnesium so people didn't try Weld it inappropriately. Still used in manufacturing but more expensive.

I spoke to a couple of companies today they thought powder coating would be a better way to go with the cases. It seems the Cerakote is a non permanent coating that does not hold up to abrasion very well.
 
Hmm. I've never used Cerakote but been told it's the biz for calipers etc as it's thin but really tough. Popular with the gun crowd.
Maybe there's different grades under the same name, or its hard to apply correctly? but I guess time will tell what is the real story.

I'm currently getting a bunch of stuff done in powder for our military grade products. There is a lot said about powder but the truth is always a bit more complex. It is an industrial coating so getting a consumer grade finish is difficult. Many places will coat your stuff in an open plant next to garden furniture and wrought iron gates. Grit can be introduced in the oven.

That said for cases they don't have to be perfect and the masking is easy, however be clear what you want masked as you will be unhappy if you can't fit the water pump anymore.

Durability is a factor of preparation. Stories of it flaking off are due to oil contamination. But consideration should be given to the chromate conversion. Older non Rohs treatments were more tolerant and keyed better. Newer friendly versions can work well but cleaning process is far more involved if you want good adhesion. I've seen people try to just swap treatments with no other changes and paint flaking becomes an issue. One that many customers probably don't care or notice.

Cases would need some real good cleaning as thread holes can bleed oil in the oven which will cause blotches and adhesion issues. I wonder how porous cast magnesium alloy is?

Your painter may deal in motor parts and armed with a few sharp questions you should be able to work out if they are the chaps for you or to try someone else.
But then again, maybe don't listen to me, I seem to have a history of misinformation.;)
 
But then again, maybe don't listen to me, I seem to have a history of misinformation.;)

I wouldn't.
More of that noise I be talking about.

I'd much rather listen to PJ-1 guy.Sounded like "an" option.He's done it.And it was a good practical useful suggestion.

PJ-1 it and twist on.
Life's short.
 
And I can recognise a type 'A' personality. I wouldn't waste my time to try tell you anything.
 
I cleaned the rust out of the barrel with a scotchbrite pad. It doesn't look took bad but there is some pitting in the bottom 1/4 of the barrel. Will a hone take this out this pitting or do we need to bore the liner to .25 over to the 1st oversize piston?
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Also, the piston only has an arrow on top (to be installed point to the exhaust port) and a number "3" stamped inside the skirt. I took a measurement of the piston and it was 69.900 which is close to the service limit for a std bore piston and the ring end gap was right at the the .85 ring end gap service limit.

* Does the #3 on the piston mean it is a std size piston within the production limits, like A;B;C marked pistons for niksail cylinders or is it something else?
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Can you get a close up shot of the top of the piston.Any numbers stamped in it?

If that's a legit service manual then everything you need to know is in it.
Should give you the numbers for the bore and how to check that the bore is true and in spec
 
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