it just has the "arrow" that goes in the direction of the exhaust port. Here is a photo.
Here is the pic before clean up.
84 RM 250 E Ground UP Full Restoration
- Thread starter Moto7man
- Start date
it just has the "arrow" that goes in the direction of the exhaust port. Here is a photo.
Here is the pic before clean up.
Ok, sounds like a plan.Thx!
Its been 20 years since I've messed with that era Suzuki so I can't tell you for sure.
But shouldn't need a puller.
Make sure any seal or snap ring or clip or in some cases the shaft has a groove and there can be a keeper locking that down.Its not in front of me.
But once you get everything freed from the shaft internally and any keeper if there is one removed.Put actuater arm back on the shaft.Lock it down on there good and tight and either---
Turn it as you pull up on it and you may find it drops through and then locks in when it gets in the right position.In your case comes out.Like a tumbler in a lock.
Or gently pry up on it as close to the splined shaft as you can get and under the actuator arm and kinda pry and wiggle it and see if you can get it to pop up.
Shouldn't need to force it.Don't force it.
You'll get the idea.
Without it in front of me that's all I got.
But shouldn't need a puller.
Make sure any seal or snap ring or clip or in some cases the shaft has a groove and there can be a keeper locking that down.Its not in front of me.
But once you get everything freed from the shaft internally and any keeper if there is one removed.Put actuater arm back on the shaft.Lock it down on there good and tight and either---
Turn it as you pull up on it and you may find it drops through and then locks in when it gets in the right position.In your case comes out.Like a tumbler in a lock.
Or gently pry up on it as close to the splined shaft as you can get and under the actuator arm and kinda pry and wiggle it and see if you can get it to pop up.
Shouldn't need to force it.Don't force it.
You'll get the idea.
Without it in front of me that's all I got.
I will look at it again and check for a keeper and I will be very easy with it. Thanks for the information!
Sorry for the delay but I was super busy at work this week.
I pulled off the radiators, coil, CDI and the front suspension. The rads look really good, I am going to have the rads and the rad guards anodized. The bike still had the stock handle bars but they had been tweaked hard and were not usable, I put them in the circular file.
Upper triple clamp was a ball bearing not a tampered bearing and it was destroyed, ball bearings everywhere and part of the cage stuck in the upper race.
Note the ball bearings laying on top of the lower tapered bearing.
I pulled off the radiators, coil, CDI and the front suspension. The rads look really good, I am going to have the rads and the rad guards anodized. The bike still had the stock handle bars but they had been tweaked hard and were not usable, I put them in the circular file.
Upper triple clamp was a ball bearing not a tampered bearing and it was destroyed, ball bearings everywhere and part of the cage stuck in the upper race.
Note the ball bearings laying on top of the lower tapered bearing.
These were the original wheels. The spokes on both wheels were completely seized from rust and the rear rim had a crack.I will be ordering a new set of excel rims with Buchanan spokes and tubliss with new Metzeler Unicross tires.
This crack is probably repairable.
Front rim looks great.
Both hubs almost ready for powdercoat.
This crack is probably repairable.
Front rim looks great.
Both hubs almost ready for powdercoat.
I removed the footpegs and brake pedal from the frame. I measured the footpegs' they are around 30mm or about have the size of the foot pegs on my Honda and GasGas. Someone posted on another forum that 96-2002 rm 250 foot pegs will bolt right up if you drill out the holes on the frame just a little for the bigger pins.Does anyone know if this is true?
34 year old brake pedal doesn't look too bad....
As of this morning here is where we are on the build.Suspension will be boxed up to go to Drew Smith at Works Enduro Rider for full rebuild. Every thing else will be going to powdercoating / anodizing or will be replaced with new oem Suzuki parts. Cylinder and head will be going to Procircuit for boring and porting. I will try to match up a new Rekluse Clutch Basket and Rekluse Auto Clutch. I have an Ohlins SD 571 steering dampner but I'm not sure that I can adapt it to this model, we will see.
34 year old brake pedal doesn't look too bad....
As of this morning here is where we are on the build.Suspension will be boxed up to go to Drew Smith at Works Enduro Rider for full rebuild. Every thing else will be going to powdercoating / anodizing or will be replaced with new oem Suzuki parts. Cylinder and head will be going to Procircuit for boring and porting. I will try to match up a new Rekluse Clutch Basket and Rekluse Auto Clutch. I have an Ohlins SD 571 steering dampner but I'm not sure that I can adapt it to this model, we will see.
Ok I removed the clutch actuator from the left case. I put a torch on it and I was able to tap the shaft and the bearing out.There wasn't a keeper or lock ring.
There was a hole in the top of the shaft about 6mm deep, It appears Suzuki had a special attachment for a slide hammer tool that fit into the hole, but I could not find it or a picture of it anywhere.
There was a hole in the top of the shaft about 6mm deep, It appears Suzuki had a special attachment for a slide hammer tool that fit into the hole, but I could not find it or a picture of it anywhere.
I got a little bit done this weekend. I removed the bearings from both hubs.
Here is the front hub.
Here is a partial shot of the rear hub, note the the nest.
Bearings came out of both hubs without a problem. The front hub looked like new inside.
The front and rear bearing spacers looked like new. I think these are the original spacers and bearings from the factory.
Then I pulled the bearings out of the swingarm. I used a Motion Pro Suspension Service Tool and once I broke the bearing loose, I used an Impact Wrench on the low power setting to spin the tool. It was fast work, 5 minutes each side and the bearings were out.
The bearings were not worn, but they were rusted very badly.
The interior of the swingarm looked fine, it just needs some cleanup.
Here is the front hub.
Here is a partial shot of the rear hub, note the the nest.
Bearings came out of both hubs without a problem. The front hub looked like new inside.
The front and rear bearing spacers looked like new. I think these are the original spacers and bearings from the factory.
Then I pulled the bearings out of the swingarm. I used a Motion Pro Suspension Service Tool and once I broke the bearing loose, I used an Impact Wrench on the low power setting to spin the tool. It was fast work, 5 minutes each side and the bearings were out.
The bearings were not worn, but they were rusted very badly.
The interior of the swingarm looked fine, it just needs some cleanup.