air screw doesnt afected RPM

[nelly001]

needle

got the nedj in the post today assembled the carb nedj middle clip 48 pilot then 40 pilot then 42 pilot whatever i done i could not get the air screw todo anything.i can get it to idle with the idle screw halfway out but it will suddenly increase revs for no reason and the only way to get it back down is to pull the choke for a second.dont know if i should get a 38 pilot and try that.the only other bike i have jetted successfully was a 2006 kx 250 and i ended up with a 36 pilot in that.when riding the bike coming off throttle the engine makes a ding ding or a cak cak noise and it has got a jerky feel to it.hope i made some sense.

 

[Jakobi]

The hanging;racing idle as it heats uip indicates you are still a bit lean on the mixture. Also indicatded by the choke bringing it back down.

I have faced this problem in the past too where you can continue to go smaller on the pilot and continue to turn the idle screw out (lower the slide) to maintain the correct idle mix. The problem is that you'll end up too lean to get a good resp off idle.

At idle my Air screw doesn't effect the engine rpm in a really big way, until you ride it and then its very noticable for even a change as small as 1/8th.

What clip position was the needle in? Where was the AS. When it would hang a bit what did a half a turn in on the AS do?

 

[hannesd]

maybe a clogged AS circuit?

 

[nelly001]

needle was on top clip airscrew did nothing.im thinking its got an air leak somewhere.when idling it was perfect but reving up for no reason is weird.

 

[Simmo737]

needle was on top clip airscrew did nothing.im thinking its got an air leak somewhere.when idling it was perfect but reving up for no reason is weird.

Brass screw on top of cap? Mine was cross threaded fom factory and I got a couple more turns and changed my jetting completely (for the good) my hose clamp to the reeds was also not tight, that may have contributed.

 

[Jakobi]

Affirmative all.

Drop the drain plug on carb bowl again. Pull the pilot and blow out to be sure. Check the fuel in the bottom of the bowl for contamination. Check the top plate of the carb where the throttle cable comes in, and also the plunger for the choke (if you're still using cable handle bar mounted one i'd recommend changing it for the old plunger style). Check your air boots, particularly the reed side one. They are prone to getting small tears especially if over tightened. Reassemble all and triple check the kick start side of the airbox side boot. I use a torch to make sure its on properly. Try again. If its still racing try the old wd40 around the carb parts while listening for changes.

 

[nelly001]

what brass screw.the carb has a screw on top and a plunger choke.

 

[Jakobi]

The newer model PWK's have a flat plate top cover as opposed to the older screw cap. Different design.

 

[nelly001]

carb

ok removed the carb today looks as if the inlet rubber has stretched cant seem to get a tight fit. i think this must be the problem but i will strip and clean the carb.i just bought some silicone hose from ebay 45mm inside diametre to join the inlet manifold to the carb with some new stainless hose clips.need to get this thing sorted this week already missed 1 race this weekend and had to explain that gas gases are good bikes.not easy when all their ktms made the start line.

 

[drn51]

OK, finaly the needle NEDJ arrived!
can I have recomendation for strating point?

curently run my ec300 2011 with stock setup:
n1ef#1( going to replace with the NEDJ), p40, main 175
carb 38 with two screw on the top.
20 degree C and about 200m

Thanks!

 

[Jakobi]

OK, finaly the needle NEDJ arrived!
can I have recomendation for strating point?

curently run my ec300 2011 with stock setup:
n1ef#1( going to replace with the NEDJ), p40, main 175
carb 38 with two screw on the top.
20 degree C and about 200m

Thanks!

Start at 42 NEDJ#3 175
I'd then look at lifting the clip 1 position and riding again. If its worse go back to 3 (if better consider trying 1) and evaluate again.
Then dial the main in. 175 will be pleanty safe. 172 will probably be closer to where you want to be.
With the 42 pilot start at 1.5 turns out and it should settle between here and 2 turns with only some light burbling off idle no load.

 

[drn51]

Thanks for the tip.
I follow after your setup: NEDJ#3, 42p, 1.5 AS out, 175
The bike run so sweet, like electrical power, also the engine is less noise and very quit.
I really like it.
But...what I feel also that I have to be more accurate with the gear, as the motor is less pulling specially with technical climbing with high gear.
Is it normal? Or should I need to do any modification?

 

[Jakobi]

I found that the NExx needles feel a bit flat off the bottom. Ie not the snap to loft the wheel over things. They do pull smooth and clean. I found no issues with it not torquing a gear high though.

You could try lifting the clip 1 pos to lean it out a tad and see if it gets better or worse. You could also try making some adjustments on the Air screw (richer and leaner) to see what gives you the best grunt.

Make 1 change at a time and determine if you feel its for better or not. The stock needle will have been much richer on the bottom end, so my guess is that you'll be looking at going to either a richer needle diameter NEDW or a bigger pilot.

 

[das]

here in italy we use the N2ZJ OR N8RJ(KTM NEEDLES) THE BIKE HAS MUCH MORE POWER AND WITH 9,5L DO ABOUT 100KM.

BYE

 

[Jakobi]

here in italy we use the N2ZJ OR N8RJ(KTM NEEDLES) THE BIKE HAS MUCH MORE POWER AND WITH 9,5L DO ABOUT 100KM.

BYE

What clip pos, main and pilot do you use with them Das? I have considered playing with these needles too. I'd say I'd probably end up in clip 1 from what I read about where the ktms are running them.

 

[das]

on my 250 i'm using needle n2zj clip 3, main 175 p 42, in summer on clip 2.

bye

 

[nelly001]

hanging idle no response from airscrew

i have had enough of trying to jet this piece of crap im going to put it together and trade it for a ktm

 

[Jakobi]

i have had enough of trying to jet this piece of crap im going to put it together and trade it for a ktm

Sorry its got you to breaking point. If you're willing to try one more thing (which will cost a few bucks [but probably not as much as trading to a pumpkin]), I'd suggest minimum measuring the squish and then sending the head (and possibly carb) to RB for some mods.

If the squish is epicly huge, as some are. Mine was 2.6mm! you can face all sorts of inconsistancies, and most are more noticable at idle as so many circuits are at work at once. Bringing the squish back will make it easier to jet with more consistant results across a wider variety of conditions.

 

[GMP]

i have had enough of trying to jet this piece of crap im going to put it together and trade it for a ktm

Really? You actually think a KTM will be easier to jet? I had one and they are not for sure. All 300s are a slight challenge to get perfect.

 

[andoman]

I've 2 Orange Bikes...

i have had enough of trying to jet this piece of crap im going to put it together and trade it for a ktm

Both 300's and they are not any easier to jet. Check out the jetting forum on the "orange" forum. It will make your eyes glaze over...
On my '08 XCW I gave up and went with JD. Always and acceptable option. Not perfect, but close. The '10XC came with a Dial-a-Jet and Dicks taper-bored carb. Now that is a great setup. But, not cheap.

On the GG I spent 5 mins reading some recent posts (thanks again Jakobi), tossed in an acceptable needle laying around from one of my orange bikes, along with the correct pilot and main, and it was fairly close.
I second the RB squish-band mod. Best $90 bucks I have spent on a bike. Makes a HUGE positive difference on how consistent the engine runs. Everywhere in the powerband.

In the end, my GG was very easy to get dialed in.

*****BTW: Check if your needle is bent!! I had one that was bent and it caused me fits!!***