Another KYB SSS Thread - 2013 EC250R
- Thread starter Jakobi
- Start date
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Picked up a box of goodies from the post office today. They probably arrived last week but I didn't get around to checking for it.
Steves spacers appear very well made and everything slides together nicely. He had to use a WRF axle which sits out 15mm as opposed to flush, and as such the spacer has been machined to sit into the axle clamp around 4mm. It doesn't leave a lot of room for the left hand clamp (looking from infront of the bike) to float, but also doesn't appear to negatively impact on the fork alignment. The axle slides in and out with minimal force, and the wheel sits central between both the forks and inline with the front fender.
The braking caliper carrier doesn't allow for the fitment of the speedo pickup so I need to do some work on that. Appears I should be able to drill and tap but it will still be a tight fit between the caliper and lug. The other option is to source an alternate pickup (Speed Sensor: 800-06) but that means more waiting time. I think I'll look into drilling and tapping.
At this point I have everything rolling on a 2010 chasis, so I may take it for a test ride and check the valving out, and then if everything is honkey dorey I'll swing it over to the 2013 model. Just need to decide if I'm going to test ride first, or try and sort out the speedo.
The plastics also appear to sit quite close against the forks so will need to do something to stop it rubbing/wearing.
Steves spacers appear very well made and everything slides together nicely. He had to use a WRF axle which sits out 15mm as opposed to flush, and as such the spacer has been machined to sit into the axle clamp around 4mm. It doesn't leave a lot of room for the left hand clamp (looking from infront of the bike) to float, but also doesn't appear to negatively impact on the fork alignment. The axle slides in and out with minimal force, and the wheel sits central between both the forks and inline with the front fender.
The braking caliper carrier doesn't allow for the fitment of the speedo pickup so I need to do some work on that. Appears I should be able to drill and tap but it will still be a tight fit between the caliper and lug. The other option is to source an alternate pickup (Speed Sensor: 800-06) but that means more waiting time. I think I'll look into drilling and tapping.
At this point I have everything rolling on a 2010 chasis, so I may take it for a test ride and check the valving out, and then if everything is honkey dorey I'll swing it over to the 2013 model. Just need to decide if I'm going to test ride first, or try and sort out the speedo.
The plastics also appear to sit quite close against the forks so will need to do something to stop it rubbing/wearing.
swazi_matt
Active member
Snap!
Got mine on Monday and looking forward to the weekend.
With the non-disk side spacer sitting 4mm into the fork it makes fitting the wheel a bit trickier but other than that all is looking good to go!
Have you fitted the yz triples?
Got mine on Monday and looking forward to the weekend.
With the non-disk side spacer sitting 4mm into the fork it makes fitting the wheel a bit trickier but other than that all is looking good to go!
Have you fitted the yz triples?
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Good work Matt! Agree regarding the spacer taking a little finess to line up. Its not too bad. Seeing how the spacers hold up will be interesting too. I've measured them up so I can have a replacement set made if required. Wet season here now so mud and grit will wear everything out rapidly.
Ideally I'd have preferred to have a shorter axle that fits nicely and doesn't hang out but thats splitting hairs. Steve assures me the YZF axle is too short. I think the best fitment may be with a CRF 450R axle. The distance from center line to center line on the forks are the same width on both that and the Gas Gas.
For triples, I stuck with the OEM and the forks I purchased slipped right in perferctly.
Ideally I'd have preferred to have a shorter axle that fits nicely and doesn't hang out but thats splitting hairs. Steve assures me the YZF axle is too short. I think the best fitment may be with a CRF 450R axle. The distance from center line to center line on the forks are the same width on both that and the Gas Gas.
For triples, I stuck with the OEM and the forks I purchased slipped right in perferctly.
swazi_matt
Active member
With regards to the spacers wearing out. Have a look at getting the SKF wheel seal sets
http://slavensracing.com/shop/wheel-seal-kits-for-ktm-husaberg-by-skf/
The seals turn within themselves and not around the spacer. They seem to work well - I think I do less mud riding here though. To be honest I think this is where Steve's work started as I had just fitted them on my bike and was hoping to keep them and said as much to Steve. I think the alternative is a different bearing and seal. But this is ultimately easier if you plan on swapping bits amongst your bikes
The bit of axel sticking out is not too much of an issue and I am sure any engineering shop would be able to trim it down without causing any harm. I may do this when I get my Hyde disk guard
Are the newer forks like yours a smaller diameter at the upper clamp?
http://slavensracing.com/shop/wheel-seal-kits-for-ktm-husaberg-by-skf/
The seals turn within themselves and not around the spacer. They seem to work well - I think I do less mud riding here though. To be honest I think this is where Steve's work started as I had just fitted them on my bike and was hoping to keep them and said as much to Steve. I think the alternative is a different bearing and seal. But this is ultimately easier if you plan on swapping bits amongst your bikes
The bit of axel sticking out is not too much of an issue and I am sure any engineering shop would be able to trim it down without causing any harm. I may do this when I get my Hyde disk guard
Are the newer forks like yours a smaller diameter at the upper clamp?
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Yeah I'm not too concerned about the portion of axle hanging out (other than being OCD). It doesn't sit out where it can be significantly damaged, nor would a bur at that end of it cause any issues. I may look at a CRF axle at some point and then if it is shorter it should be a simple matter of trimming down the stepped spacer for a more traditional setup.
I don't mind the setup with the spacer riding in the bearing inner race. It should work very well as long as they don't seize in the bearing. Periodic maintenance should keep this under control.
Edit: Yes, upper clamping OD is smaller on certain models. The details were listed somewhere back at the start of this thread.
I don't mind the setup with the spacer riding in the bearing inner race. It should work very well as long as they don't seize in the bearing. Periodic maintenance should keep this under control.
Edit: Yes, upper clamping OD is smaller on certain models. The details were listed somewhere back at the start of this thread.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Tinker tinker.
Measured, measured, measured some more. Not a lot of room for the speedo pickup on the caliper carrier. Would probably have been easier to simply buy a replacement cable with the bigger pickup that tacks on. Never the less, drilled and tapped, and she's right where it needs to be within a bees dick of everything. It takes some finess to line up the caliper mounts but end product is everything sitting nice and tidy. I just need to put a new battery in the speedo/start the bike and confirm the pickup catches the magnet. There is some overlap, but its not 100%. I'm hoping it will be just fine! If not I'll look at repositioning the magnet on the tab.
Will try and get some pictures up tonight, but really she should be together and ridable by close of business. Short test ride tomorrow possibly, and a Sunday ride in the bush.
Measured, measured, measured some more. Not a lot of room for the speedo pickup on the caliper carrier. Would probably have been easier to simply buy a replacement cable with the bigger pickup that tacks on. Never the less, drilled and tapped, and she's right where it needs to be within a bees dick of everything. It takes some finess to line up the caliper mounts but end product is everything sitting nice and tidy. I just need to put a new battery in the speedo/start the bike and confirm the pickup catches the magnet. There is some overlap, but its not 100%. I'm hoping it will be just fine! If not I'll look at repositioning the magnet on the tab.
Will try and get some pictures up tonight, but really she should be together and ridable by close of business. Short test ride tomorrow possibly, and a Sunday ride in the bush.
swazi_matt
Active member
Please post a pic of your speedo mount. I don't really use mine for anything other than hour meter and as mine is fitted with a rev counter pickup I am hoping this will still work
Jakobi
Super Moderator
My bikes road registered, and while I've dumped most of the regulation gear (blinkers etc) I still need the speedo for transport sections. I also don't mind tracking kms, and the 2013 Vector unit hasn't got its own tacho pickup and counts hours while the front wheel is turning. Bit of a poor design really.
The alignment for the hole was real touch and go with very minimal clearance. I did my best to keep as much meat on the outer edge, but at 2-3mm it really is as far as you can go. Any further and you wouldn't get the caliper bolts lined up. Even with the current setup I really need to be careful in getting the lower bolt started and done up and then apply some pressure to the carrier to pull it into position to put the upper bolt in. Snug as a bug in a rug.
Cable is cracked, but was already. This is on the old steed. Everything lines up pretty well. I put a battery in the speedo and spun the wheel up and it was reading so thats a win as well.
swazi_matt
Active member
Those forks were a good find! mine are pretty nice, but definitely seen some dirt, those look like they brand new
roverhybrids
Member
Jake,
I missed what you are doing for the triple clamps?
Did you bore the GG top clamp?
I missed what you are doing for the triple clamps?
Did you bore the GG top clamp?
swazi_matt
Active member
I got a spare GG top triple bored out. Jakes are newer and fit the GG triples
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Very first post. The Gas Gas stock forks are a 54mm OD. You can match this with some late model KYBs, however you'll drop 3mm in total offset due to these forks having a shorter axle lug. If you bore out the upper clamp from 54mm/56mm you'll have a larger range of forks to chose from (inc WRF), and depending which years you'll also be able to retain the same total offset.
I'm taking a bit of a gamble by dropping the total offset by 3mm, but I believe it should work well on the 2012+ chasis. Maybe not so well on the older ones which already need a bit more input in the turns.
I'm taking a bit of a gamble by dropping the total offset by 3mm, but I believe it should work well on the 2012+ chasis. Maybe not so well on the older ones which already need a bit more input in the turns.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Couldn't quite get my head around why Steve opted to use a WRF axle over a YZF. He had told me it was too short, but end to end measurements were perfect. Given his current situation I don't expect him to sit around explaining things, and for good reason too! Thoughts with you Steve!
So with some measuring, we'll start with the brake side. The spacer is required to do 2 things. Set the center line of the hub, and align the rotor in the carrier. It does this. Then the hub is a constant, and so is the shoulder on both axles (YZF/WRF). The difference in shaft length is 20mm. Basically, when all is done with the shorter axle the shoulder on the floating side would be right on the seal lip, which leaves very little spacer, and a poor sealing surface. You could get around it a few different ways, but none are easy persay.
I'm guessing best bet would possibly be running with an axle shaft length between the two/a little less shoulder. I may get a mate to measure up a Honda CRF axle for exercises sake.
So with some measuring, we'll start with the brake side. The spacer is required to do 2 things. Set the center line of the hub, and align the rotor in the carrier. It does this. Then the hub is a constant, and so is the shoulder on both axles (YZF/WRF). The difference in shaft length is 20mm. Basically, when all is done with the shorter axle the shoulder on the floating side would be right on the seal lip, which leaves very little spacer, and a poor sealing surface. You could get around it a few different ways, but none are easy persay.
I'm guessing best bet would possibly be running with an axle shaft length between the two/a little less shoulder. I may get a mate to measure up a Honda CRF axle for exercises sake.
swazi_matt
Active member
Is there a reason why you want a shorter axel (other than aesthetics)?
One thing I have noticed is that I cannot see any noticeable "float" on the rhs shaft when tightening up. Not sure if this is because the kyb's are a much tighter package than the extremely wobbly (at full extension) Sachs that k am used to where I could slide the fork bottom a couple of mm either way when trying to get proper fork alignment. Or is this due to the spacer sitting slightly inside the fork bottom?
One thing I have noticed is that I cannot see any noticeable "float" on the rhs shaft when tightening up. Not sure if this is because the kyb's are a much tighter package than the extremely wobbly (at full extension) Sachs that k am used to where I could slide the fork bottom a couple of mm either way when trying to get proper fork alignment. Or is this due to the spacer sitting slightly inside the fork bottom?
