Best setup for ec300 2011 in hard enduro

[drn51]

Pretty new here and at GG family, just picks up ec 300 2011 riding in very tight woods, rocks...
After reading a lot of post, I see that the most common tip is to use higher gear and lug it...
But in some place putting the 3rd or even the 2nd gear isnt fit to the specific area and the motor is run away without rotating the throttle.
What is the best setup to smooth the power, and create linear motor?
Jetting? reed spacer? Power valve?

Currently running with everything stock, sea level, 20 degree Celsius
Thanks.

 

[swazi_matt]

welcome to the site ... and the GG family!

for tight extreme riding i would suggest hyde skid plate and p3 exhaust guard, the revalve the suspension, you may find it a bit harsh if you ride lots of rocks, then what i have done to the gearing is i just dropped to a 12 front sproket, that gives me plenty low down in first for steep pull offs, but i find now that i do a lot of climbs in second

enjoy

 

[tnttimber]

G2 throttle with the 400 cam.

 

[HuskyDude]

Welcome DRN51,
Like Matt has stated in his post, recommend some guards. Maybe take a look at some type of protection for your hands if riding among trees. Bark Busters, Acerbis have a good selection. I also went with the Bonz mounts they fit nicely. I went with a larger sprocket on the rear and also find 1st gear not used much, but is still there if needed. You might find yourself coming up short on some fire roads but well worth the trade off. Maybe a pull strap. Suspension work I felt was needed on the 2010 but not sure about the 2011. Maybe someone else will add. Setting up your bike for your style of riding really is a personal quest and will vary wider amount riders.

 

[drn51]

thanks forthe feedbacks guys!

of course I will pay attenation for the protection and guards, but what is most concern me is the linearity of the motor that i dont know how start to deal with this.

 

[boyscout]

I would say the pipe and silencer combo that comes stock on the 2011's is pretty linear to begin with. if you want it smoother the last thing you would want is to gear it down, but personally i geared it down two teeth in the rear- it works well for me. There are some silencers out there that will let it rev out a little quicker but it doesn't sound like thats what you want. Id ride it for a couple of events before changing anything up too much as practice is never as intense as racing.

 

[Jakobi]

Jetting 101! Have a look in the jetting section. Theres thread upon thread. First check to see if you have a 38mm carb or 36mm and then grab a few needles and start playing! These carbs are very sensitive to change and effect on power delivery.

 

[drn51]

ok thanks,can i have recomend basic jetting setup to start with him?
tecnichal ride, sea level, 20 degree Celsius

 

[boyscout]

First you need to determine whether you have a 36mm or 38mm carb. It is on top of the carb in a small round indention, from there jakobi will have you sorted.

 

[swazi_matt]

Just my opinion here, but doesn't the new bike come with sea level jetting?

 

[farmerj]

+1 on the G2 throttle. My bike ('05 DE 300) came with an NEDW needle, super smooth and linear in response.

Jeff

 

[GasGasDreamer]

the larger power valve cover made the bottom alot more chuggable and less snappy which helped me in the real nasties. i think the problem with too much gearing changes are they make it too snappy and require lots of throttle control.
i now run trials on both front [w tubliss] and rear and i am never going back because they really are that good imho.
changing to a lighter fork oil is cheap and easy and helps the with squared edges. then add some cc's to help the botoming and run as little compression clickers as possible.
a steering stabilizer will stop the bars from ripping your arms off. i run mine with no dampening except on the high speed circuit [scotts].
i love the flexx bars and the clutch grip 'g shock' to save my bad left wrist.
the biggest changes probably should be with the rider....
always having the clutch in hand with two fingers.....
proper body position....

 

[drn51]

at the top of the carburator written 38.

 

[AZRickD]

...what is most concern me is the linearity of the motor...

Did the first few posters bother to read his question? He has questions of motor behavior and instead he gets comments on skid plates, pipe quards, BarkBusters...

 

[Jakobi]

at the top of the carburator written 38.

Sorry its taken a while to reply. Now you've established that you have a 38mm carb head over to the jetting section and start having a read.

Baseline specs for a stock 300 at sea level from scotties (australia) is 42P N3EJ#3 178. This isn't exactly what I'd call a smooth setup.

Alternatively you could try the 42 NEDJ#3 175 main. Should give you a smoother transition from low to mid.

 

[drn51]

thanks i will try it and update