Bling item.

[Ud_luz]

I thought these were kind of cool looking, the Zeta brake clevis. I wonder where we can get them? I can't find a listing for GG but they're probably the same as another bike.

 

[Skidad]

Actually if one of these fits it's the one to get. I've eyeballed these for awhile and need to give them a call.

http://www.fasstco.com/products/clevis.shtml

 

[GMP]

You realize that the no slot design will allow no free play in the pedal right?

All bling, and it does nothing to address the wear of the hole in the alloy pedal.

 

[Ud_luz]

You realize that the no slot design will allow no free play in the pedal right?

All bling, and it does nothing to address the wear of the hole in the alloy pedal.

I wouldn't be caught dead putting that stuff on my beat to death bike but my son LOVES this kind of stuff. I was going to get him a new hammerhead shifter and one of these too.

The hole in the pedal is remarkably easily fixed. Run down to the hardware store and pick up a small brass bushing. Drill the pedal, press it in and it's fixed. Extremely minor issue.

 

[GMP]

I filled the hole with HTS-2000, drilled and tapped it M6. Then get some thin walled steel spacers or M6 weldnuts, and run an M6 bolt with one on each side and a nut on the back. This way, the bearing surface in the pedal hole is eliminated (no wear), the spacers slide in the clevis. As a bonus on the older bikes with the pedal height/stop bolt you can cut the bottom out of the clevis slot and the pedal can be removed without touching the bolt/spacer setup. Very handy for on the trail removal.

 

[roostafish]

I filled the hole with HTS-2000, drilled and tapped it M6. Then get some thin walled steel spacers or M6 weldnuts, and run an M6 bolt with one on each side and a nut on the back. This way, the bearing surface in the pedal hole is eliminated (no wear), the spacers slide in the clevis. As a bonus on the older bikes with the pedal height/stop bolt you can cut the bottom out of the clevis slot and the pedal can be removed without touching the bolt/spacer setup. Very handy for on the trail removal.

I'd like to see a picture of this. One of my complaints has been the sloppy rear brake. Even when new, I don't like the design. I've thought of copying the KTM design.

 

[rpduc]

You realize that the no slot design will allow no free play in the pedal right?

I purposely drilled out that slot in the clevis and replaced the pin with a larger one to remove that freeplay. I see no use for it but I am open for correction. There's still ample freeplay in the MC itself for my tastes. On my '05 MC 250 with no stop to adjust pedal height that slot was just one more factor making the pedal ride to high. I had to lift my foot off the peg to get to the brake. Maybe it's different on the newer frames???

I cut off the plunger bolt inside the clevis to adjust the pedal down but it's still not quite right for me. It's like the geometry of the whole set-up is off. If the whole assembly was rotated clockwise a few degrees it would work better for me. If I add a stop to keep the pedal in a good position there will be minimal freeplay adjustment left so I'm thinking I either have to make a shorter clevis or move the master or ???

If those bling clevii can be had in a shorter than stock version I might be tempted.

 

[cbutler]

Could you not cut the brake lever part way then bend it down to where it is comfortable for your riding position then weld it the cut back together.I have done this with several shifters to fine tune them.

Just my .02

 

[GMP]

The first reaction is the pedal is too high, so you cut the bolt and adjust. After you (me anyway) get used to it you tend to raise it back a bit. Depends on your style and boots somewhat too. I don't like to have the pedal (and my toes) too low at full travel of the system.

Working on a pic, stay tuned...

 

[rpduc]

Could you not cut the brake lever part way then bend it down to where it is comfortable for your riding position then weld it the cut back together

That is more my style but I did that with a shift lever and now the thing seems to be very prone to bending. Like the heat took the temper out of the alloy or some such. I'm no metalurgist. Maybe that's crazy talk and it was just coincidental that the thing has bent to the point of being inoperable twice since I added 1/2" to it... but it sure seems softer to me... I ordered up a bling Hammerhead shifter to deal with that...

I don't like to have the pedal (and my toes) too low at full travel of the system.

I hear you on the low toes, but I ride that rear brake pedal so I'd like a little more travel room between off and on if you know what I mean. As it is now it requires more finesse than I think necessary to not be on the brake a bit accelerating out of corners.

 

[GMP]

M6 weldnuts, very handy little parts. The pedal is tapped M6, the right side (outside) weldnut is drilled of threads to a spacer. The left side functions as a spacer and locknut. Its all steel on steel and very durable.

My setup is slightly asymettical because I have a custom pivot post that sticks out a mm more, hence the shorter outside spacer.

This has solved all my problems with sloppy pivots.

 

[roostafish]

AWESOME! I love this sort of agricultural solution! Just like on the farm! I wish I would have thought of this myself.

 

[GMP]

Agricultural? I guess thats better than ghetto.

I originally used small M6 spacers and washers on my '03, but found these work just as well and I had a bag of them. I also used them as inserts for my Hyde combo guard.

Anyway roost, you get the picture, think about cutting the bottom out of the clevis, as long as you have stop bolt it makes removal a snap.

 

[Klausen]

thanks for this nice manual

I solve this f.. problem for the next years.