fletchman45
New member
Stupid question. I love the choke on the handlebar like it is. But do I have to worry in a muddy race something may happen and cause a DNF????????????? What have you all done?????????????
Do I need to remove my cool cable choke from my new Gasser????
- Thread starter fletchman45
- Start date
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I removed it. It always had a bit of slop at the lever, and the terrain I ride means lots of vines, plants, branches, etc slapping against the bike and there was nothing worse than having something pull the choke and stall the bike or load it up.
I never really encountered any issues often, but considering I only use the choke for around 30seconds in the morning when I first start the bike I don't see any advantage or need to have it on the bars where it can cause issues.
I never really encountered any issues often, but considering I only use the choke for around 30seconds in the morning when I first start the bike I don't see any advantage or need to have it on the bars where it can cause issues.
REVERUP
Gold Level Site Supporter
I like it in particular with the estart model. Pull in the choke lever, hit the magic button, release, ride off. You can never forget to push your choke back down. I have also used it on some seriously cold mornings while running wide open down a dike in eastern Washington to richen it up, pretty cool.
And as far as it failing, that was my worry at first too. Non issue so far. We ride some of the wettest, sloppiest, brushyest, terrain you can imagine.
By the way it is supposed to have some slop in it at the lever. That way the slightest touch don't send you into blubber mode.
I've actually had to replace the regular style knob on one of my other 300's because it would no longer stay up when pulled up and was allowing water in. Bending over in that position to hold up the little choke knob on a winters morning with thick gloves while waiting for the bike to get up to operating temp. made replacing it a necessity for me.
And as far as it failing, that was my worry at first too. Non issue so far. We ride some of the wettest, sloppiest, brushyest, terrain you can imagine.
By the way it is supposed to have some slop in it at the lever. That way the slightest touch don't send you into blubber mode.
I've actually had to replace the regular style knob on one of my other 300's because it would no longer stay up when pulled up and was allowing water in. Bending over in that position to hold up the little choke knob on a winters morning with thick gloves while waiting for the bike to get up to operating temp. made replacing it a necessity for me.
That's the 1st good reason that I've heard to keep it on there. Good thinking.
fletchman45
New member
Need a few more comments to figure it out. I think it is a nice feature but do not want the risk of DNF. Anyone had any issues????????? Thanks
swazi_matt
Active member
Leave it in for the above reason but let it be the first thing you disconnect when your bike suddenly starts acting like someone messed with the jetting - it is just one screw to remove the lever and let the cable have full slack, then replace it
stabak
New member
In case you'll oftenly mess with jetting and tilting the carb, you'll definately need the knob one because the cable's plastic connector with the carb have less threads and eventually will fail, as did mine.
Ordered the one with the knob and the following part in order to have both worlds to choose from:
Hope that will do
Ordered the one with the knob and the following part in order to have both worlds to choose from:
Hope that will do
GMP
Active member
One less cable on the bars to deal with. There also have been reports about the starter plunger seizing in the carb due to moisture, something you rarely hear of normally. The plunger rod with the knob appears to be a more positive seal than a cable.
I can see the use for it in the desert of if you do a lot of high speed stuff, just like tapping the kill button. I just like things as simple as possible, the less extra crap on a bike the better.
I can see the use for it in the desert of if you do a lot of high speed stuff, just like tapping the kill button. I just like things as simple as possible, the less extra crap on a bike the better.
singletracker
New member
My cable got caught by a branch on the second or third ride after I bought it. It caused me to foul a plug, but luckily I was riding around my house at the time. I took it off promptly afterwards.
fletchman45
New member
God darn it. Sounding like more sense to install the plain one that was included with the bike. But wait I may be able to turn this around. Sounds like a good reason to convince the wife I need a late model practice bike. For the eye candy and I could leave the stock cool handlebar mounted choke!! Ok not really sure the wife or my checkbook will bite on this!! I will have to look at how easy it is to switch and if a guy could just switch it for racing and leave the cable in place and......................................... Another bike sounds better!!!
modette
New member
In case you'll oftenly mess with jetting and tilting the carb, you'll definately need the knob one because the cable's plastic connector with the carb have less threads and eventually will fail, as did mine.
Ordered the one with the knob and the following part in order to have both worlds to choose from:
Hope that will do
What is this converting...?
Haven't had any issues with mine. It's handy and works well IMO. Just pull it in to start and feather it a few times when warming up the bike.
We usually have a lot of mud and slop around S. Ontario, where I ride.
I've heard of some guys having problems, but all you need is a dab of silicone at the cable connection points to keep crap and water out. Also, a bit of lube in the cable once in a while is a good idea. Put a dab of silicone around the throttle cable connection point at the top of the carb as well.
Keeping the bike thoroughly cleaned is a good maintenance practice. After I'm finished washing my bike(after every ride), the carb and all pivot points and suspension sliding points get a spray of WD40.
This keeps the carb looking like new, even on a bike that is 5-6 years old.
We usually have a lot of mud and slop around S. Ontario, where I ride.
I've heard of some guys having problems, but all you need is a dab of silicone at the cable connection points to keep crap and water out. Also, a bit of lube in the cable once in a while is a good idea. Put a dab of silicone around the throttle cable connection point at the top of the carb as well.
Keeping the bike thoroughly cleaned is a good maintenance practice. After I'm finished washing my bike(after every ride), the carb and all pivot points and suspension sliding points get a spray of WD40.
This keeps the carb looking like new, even on a bike that is 5-6 years old.
singletracker
New member
I had barkbusters. I'm with GMP on this one. I rode 8 enduros last year and never felt the need to hit the choke to richen it up during WFO sections. I don't see any other advantage to it, only another thing that could go wrong. It may not happen often, but it only takes once.
It's personal preference and what you feel comfortable with.
REVERUP
Gold Level Site Supporter
I've said it before Ill say it again. On bike parts like this, just because a few have had issues with it, doesn't necessarily mean you will. It's a dirtbike part and like many parts on a dirt bike they fail, or with lack of maintenance or prep they don't work correctly.
If you like it, I'd suggest you prep it ,maintain it and keep it until it fails you. While I understand simple and am all about that, I also want to share it isn't the ticking time bomb I also thought it might be when it was first offered. And I really like it's convenience with the e start model.
And really, I don't like trying to fit that cable combined with the extra and ample estart wire harness and large lighting plugs behind the enduro light shell when I switch plates. But it's a nice option to have with the estart and in a venue where you can go wide open for miles and I do both so I choose to keep it, until it fails me.
It's was still working correctly after 24 hours of racing in very deep mud.
I could post many, many pictures of gnarly brushy, muddy, deep water racing and riding. Bike prep and maintenance is key.
If you like it, I'd suggest you prep it ,maintain it and keep it until it fails you. While I understand simple and am all about that, I also want to share it isn't the ticking time bomb I also thought it might be when it was first offered. And I really like it's convenience with the e start model.
And really, I don't like trying to fit that cable combined with the extra and ample estart wire harness and large lighting plugs behind the enduro light shell when I switch plates. But it's a nice option to have with the estart and in a venue where you can go wide open for miles and I do both so I choose to keep it, until it fails me.
It's was still working correctly after 24 hours of racing in very deep mud.
I could post many, many pictures of gnarly brushy, muddy, deep water racing and riding. Bike prep and maintenance is key.
singletracker
New member
My problem with the cable had nothing to do with bike prep or maintenance. It was just one of those things. I will agree that it may never be a problem for some, but it was for me. I'm glad everyone is willing to share their experiences both good and bad regarding issues of all kinds. That's what helps people make educated decisions about their own bikes.
