Footpeg Dimensions

[Neil E.]

I'm not thrilled with the GG pegs and need to know how they compare to a KTM/Husaberg peg. Is a KTM peg larger or is it that the GG pegs are just plain spindly looking?

I'm considering the pivot pegs and can't decide between the older MK2 at 50mm or the newer MK3 at 60mm. I feel the MK3 might be too wide since the GG shift lever seems short.

I don't think I need a wide peg; ones like the Fastways look way too big. My feet are a size 10.

 

[GMP]

I had Fastways on my '03 and they were too wide. I now have the Pivot Pegs (MK2 I guess, not brand new) and they are great. Perhaps the added width of the new ones might not matter much since they pivot, just a thought.

 

[gasgasman]

the GG shift lever seems short.

.

I have a size 10 hoof also and had to get a longer Hammer Head shifter.

The Pivot Pegz do make it easier to shift and brake,since you're not having to lift your feet every time you shift or brake.

 

[Tlineman]

I just had my first ride on my pivot pegs. I must tell you, they feel really weird in the garage. I almost wanted to return them but figured i'd try them out. Leaving the truck, they felt really....... odd. It didn't take very long to get accustomed to them though. Only 10 min max. After swapping bikes with a buddy, (he wanted to try them), regular footpegs felt really strange, and felt like I was always standing on the edge of the peg.

Long and short of it all is I like them. I'm going to be drilling them out and installing a grease nipple on them for easier maintenance but otherwise they are here to stay. I order the MK2 ones as well. Didn't figure I'd need the big ones.

 

[GMP]

I'd think twice about that. The o-rings are very small and will be blown out easy from the pressure of the grease gun. From my experience, if the pegs are assembled correctly without pinching an o-ring, and with good grease, you won't find any dirt in there after a few rides. Buy o-rings in bulk and service is quick.

 

[Skidad]

The Pivot Pegs are great. I'll agree with all their claims and the new 60mm wide version should help with the only gripe I have is they can pack with mud. Has NOT created a problem though keeping feet on the pegs. They are grippy enough without being to grippy like some pegs. Curious to see how the wider versions contact the brake pedal though.

You can get used to them literally in minutes IMO. Use a high quality Moly paste grease like the Jet Lube Moly 50 and I have changed the o-rings to just slightly larger on both sides and ditched the 2 o-ring setup on the outboard side. Slightly stiff upon assembly they losen up just right after a short ride. See pic. I also don't see the older more narrow MK2 version even listed on their site any longer. Not sure if they dropped production of that one but still should be plenty of them kicking around in the retail pipeline if you want the more narrow one.

 

[Neil E.]

I ordered a set of the MK3 to try. Figured I'd go with the wider one since the MK2 is slowly being phased out (I could have got the MK2, there were some in stock).

I decided on the pivot pegs after studying the bottom of my boots. The tread was ripped where the leading edge of the peg touched.

While standing on the GG, it felt better when I rotated my foot back a bit to be flat on the peg. From this I figured that the pivot pegs would suit me better since they can rotate forward (should be more comfortable).

 

[GMP]

Its so much more natural to stand and lean forward.

 

[gasgasman]

Speaking of Pivot Pegs.
They say you can switch the pegs from left to right to lower them.
Has anyone actually tried that?
I don't see how it can be done.

 

[Neil E.]

Speaking of Pivot Pegs. They say you can switch the pegs from left to right to lower them.

You are thinking of the Fastway pegs. They can be switched around to lower them.

 

[GMP]

I don't see how that would work with Pivot Pegs. Fastways are lowered by changing the extended bushings from bottom to top.

 

[Tlineman]

Speaking of Pivot Pegs.
They say you can switch the pegs from left to right to lower them.
Has anyone actually tried that?
I don't see how it can be done.

Yes It can be done. I've done it too mine. You have to unbolt the peg itself from the pivot / bike mount and switch left to right. This will put the collar part of the peg above and lower the peg roughly 10mm. I'm 6'4" so this was a good alteration for me. Also increased my peg to shifter distance so it doesn't feel as short. I did have to adjust brake pedal height though. Had to cut about 1/4" off the stud so that the pedal will mount lower.

 

[Bikerdad450F]

can you lower the stock pegs?

another 6'4" guy here, I was scanning this thread for this exact topic, I have read somewhere that there is a mod for the stock pegs, down and back I think?, mine is an 09 ec300.

 

[Neil E.]

They probably cut the "collar" part of the peg off to change the vertical location. I did the left to right swap on the pivot pegs and it makes the bike more comfortable. The stock pegs angled up so much that it was difficult to get under the shifter.

I turned the pivot pegs into adjustable non-pivot pegs. I made up a clamp assembly to lock the dowel pin in place at the slot. A fixed 5* downslope to the front works well for me. A custom washer allowed me to do up the nut tight so it also holds the peg in place.

 

[n_green]

They probably cut the "collar" part of the peg off to change the vertical location. I did the left to right swap on the pivot pegs and it makes the bike more comfortable. The stock pegs angled up so much that it was difficult to get under the shifter.



I turned the pivot pegs into adjustable non-pivot pegs. I made up a clamp assembly to lock the dowel pin in place at the slot. A fixed 5* downslope to the front works well for me. A custom washer allowed me to do up the nut tight so it also holds the peg in place.

Digging up an old thread here.

I had the MK3 pivot pegs on my '11. Didn't mind them but I didn't love them either. I found they always tended to pivot backwards going up hills which is when you want them to pivot forwards so you can lock in. As a result I've left them in the cupboard and put F3 fastway pegs on the '14.

The fastways are probably a tad wide but I don't mind that. Being tall 6'2" I also loved the ability to run them lower. They do however have clearance issues being so wide and interfere with the kickstand spring on the Lhs and rear brake bolt on the rhs when they fold up.

Recent crash saw me bend the Lhs peg pretty badly. With some heat and abuse from a sledgehammer it's probably repairable, but some searching brought up this thread.

I think I'll try and lower the pivot pegs as per your instructions and also lock them to prevent them from pivoting. Any more info on how you did this. I know it's years old now so hoping you either still run them or have a good memory

 

[Neil E.]

My memory is OK for an old guy, but I scrounged up my notes to be sure. I assembled the pegs switched from side to side so they sit lower which suits me better. I show (1) inner washer .394 x .650 x .060 thick and (1) outer washer .541 x .650 x .030 thick used on each footpeg. I put a single oring at each end of the peg bore just to help keep dirt out. This really doesn't matter since the pegs are fixed. When I do up the nut, the washers clamp the peg in place. I likely made the washers since I have access to a machine shop at work.

I also made up some small clamp blocks to further lock the pegs. These are made from 1/4" thick aluminum. (4) pieces at .340 x .750 x .250 thick. Two of these have a 3/16" reamed hole in the center which fit over the peg dowel pin. Outboard of the reamed hole is two 8-32 threaded holes on .388 centers.

The other two blocks each have a pair of holes .166 diameter located on the same .388 centers. So one block goes over the pin and the other block clamps it in place. Some slight shaping was done on the clamp blocks so they would clear the footpeg stem radius.

I was not confident that the washers alone would lock the pegs, so I made up the clamp blocks. One thing to note is that these clamp blocks take up most of the swivel room, which was fine for me since I only wanted a 5* forward slope. The pegs have stayed in place since 2011 with numerous trail hits.

Without machine shop access this job would be difficult. I suggest you pull your pegs apart and study the construction. You might find washers close enough to do the job and clamp tight. At worst you might have to bang the peg back into correct rotation after a trail hit.

If you could determine the ideal angle and lock the pegs with washers, JB weld might be used to fill the slots for complete locking. I ground material off the peg edges to allow them to fold up fully.

 

[n_green]

Cheers I'll have a look at it and see how I go.