Frustrated with Stock Carb Fitment

I have an ASII with no adapter on my '11 EC300.
I, too, have fitment issues: The right side of the air-boot flange isn't square to the carb and the carb is a little too short. I have to stretch the boot a bit and double-double check that things are tight and aligned after I tighten the clamp.

I have the exact same problem , I even check during the ride if the carb didn't slip from the air-boot. Scary ...
 
My '12 has airboot part# BE250128017, molded in 01/12. Fits the ASI carb fine, but that is longer by a few mm. This nonsense could be easily avoided by molding the airboot from a softer durometer rubber compound, like every other bike, and making it a few mm longer so it fits neutral with the short carb and no reed spacer. It then would be much easier to slightly compress the airboot (for use of a reed spacer)than stretch it, absorb tolerances, and ease R&R for jetting changes. I don't understand GGs love of this hard airboot, its been like this since the beginning and there is no reason for it. If they think its more durable, the guy I sold my '03 to put a stick through it easy enough. Husky airboots are very soft, easy to work with, and have no issues.

This is one to take back to the factory for 2014.
 
I ordered a Lectron today. It is supposed to come set up for my bike and riding conditions. Once I fine tune it (if needed) I shouldn't have to adjust it again unless I change elevations by more than 2000 feet, which I won't. Even then it is only supposed to need a slight idle adjustment. I'm looking forward to the improved mpg.

It's also about 7.3mm longer than my stock carb and the bell is about 2mm smaller on the air box side, which should help with the fitment issue.
 
2001 xc300

Same problem on my 01 XC300. The original air boot fit better, not great but better. Unfortunately it got harponed by a stick.The original was hard to make sure all was sealed, but after I worked it a bit it always gave a satisfactory seal. I replaced it with a new one from Go-Fasters this one has been a bear every time I remove the carb. I have to pivot the sub frame up then secure the carb to the filter boot. Then push it into the reed block end with the sub frame back in position. Going to try the heat trick to see if that helps. Hopefully they improve the design of the airbox on newer models. My last son just graduated from college so will be looking at buying a new bike in another year or two.
 
I have to pivot the sub frame up then secure the carb to the filter boot. Then push it into the reed block end with the sub frame back in position. Going to try the heat trick to see if that helps. Hopefully they improve the design of the airbox on newer models.

:eek:

I thought mine was bad...
 
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