memphis2857
New member
It's not caused by excess fuel. It caused by a lean condition which is why a richer pilot and needle corrected your problem. Hanging idle is a lean condition ALWAYS.
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Hanging idle
- Thread starter BSM2
- Start date
It's not caused by excess fuel. It caused by a lean condition which is why a richer pilot and needle corrected your problem. Hanging idle is a lean condition ALWAYS.
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Ok, I understand your point of view and agree with.
However, if there EXCESS a rich condition, these symptoms (at least to me was so) of high idle for a few seconds manifest, just as a poor condition also does. This is why I fought hard to solve my problem because with jet and needles he used the bike was impossible to be poor and the symptoms were like a poor condition. This is why I said GasGas engines go against the established logic ....
Just to prove what I say, currently have a Jet Pilot # 45 and # 2 NEDF, air screw 1.5 turns. If you use a # 48 to achieve good idling, must tighten the screw idle, for only by opening the screw air will not get a good idle, hence the problems of an idle accelerated for a few seconds will return to manifest.
It may seem strange, but that's how it worked for me.
However, if there EXCESS a rich condition, these symptoms (at least to me was so) of high idle for a few seconds manifest, just as a poor condition also does. This is why I fought hard to solve my problem because with jet and needles he used the bike was impossible to be poor and the symptoms were like a poor condition. This is why I said GasGas engines go against the established logic ....
Just to prove what I say, currently have a Jet Pilot # 45 and # 2 NEDF, air screw 1.5 turns. If you use a # 48 to achieve good idling, must tighten the screw idle, for only by opening the screw air will not get a good idle, hence the problems of an idle accelerated for a few seconds will return to manifest.
It may seem strange, but that's how it worked for me.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I know the exact symptom.
Its a very delicate balance between needle diameter, slide cutaway (and also if notched or not), straight section of the needle, the height of the slide (idle screw position), and the air screw and pilot.
Almost like there are 2 states, ticking over at a very low idle and then an idle a bit faster than you'd like, and this all occurs at a very small adjustment of the idle screw. Back it out too far and the engine won't idle. Increase the idle and it will idle quickly, and between the adjustments there is the area where it will do as you suggest and drop steadily from rpm - hold for a few seconds, and then go down to the slow tickover.
My advice would be if you are happy with how the bike runs in terms of response and grunt, then slowly tweak the idle screw down. I'm talking bees dick adjustment until you achieve that point where it just ticks over. This may mean that it doesn't idle as well in gear anymore as the slight drag also brings the idle down some more.
For me, I most definitely found that it was related to a large squish clearance adding to the instability. And sounded nothing like a lean hang, and more so like it was indeed using excess fuel. Like someone was very slowly closing the last little bit of throttle.
In all honesty, it may be a case that a slightly stronger return spring on the slide resolves the issue.
The spring on the idle screw is also prone to allowing some movement during vibration which can also play in as another variable, although not directly resulting in the symptoms we are discussing.
Its a very delicate balance between needle diameter, slide cutaway (and also if notched or not), straight section of the needle, the height of the slide (idle screw position), and the air screw and pilot.
Almost like there are 2 states, ticking over at a very low idle and then an idle a bit faster than you'd like, and this all occurs at a very small adjustment of the idle screw. Back it out too far and the engine won't idle. Increase the idle and it will idle quickly, and between the adjustments there is the area where it will do as you suggest and drop steadily from rpm - hold for a few seconds, and then go down to the slow tickover.
My advice would be if you are happy with how the bike runs in terms of response and grunt, then slowly tweak the idle screw down. I'm talking bees dick adjustment until you achieve that point where it just ticks over. This may mean that it doesn't idle as well in gear anymore as the slight drag also brings the idle down some more.
For me, I most definitely found that it was related to a large squish clearance adding to the instability. And sounded nothing like a lean hang, and more so like it was indeed using excess fuel. Like someone was very slowly closing the last little bit of throttle.
In all honesty, it may be a case that a slightly stronger return spring on the slide resolves the issue.
The spring on the idle screw is also prone to allowing some movement during vibration which can also play in as another variable, although not directly resulting in the symptoms we are discussing.
memphis2857
New member
Ok after reading Jakes post I understand better what you are talking about. And I never believed that the squish could make such a large impact on jetting until I corrected mine. I spent 7 months trying to jet my bike. Finally fixed the squish and had it jetted near perfect in one afternoon. On that note, Jake can you tell me which needle would be a half clip leaner than a N3CH?
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Jakobi can aptly and expertise to explain as best as possible what happens.
Playing a bit now, I think perfectly carburet one GasGas becomes the owner almost an expert on the subject. That complicated bike over the other bikes in this part.
Last weekend was a perfect trip in the Mountains.
Lots of single tracks and steep climbs!
Bike ride perfectly, suspension was awesome and controlled power!
And above of all, no more hanging idle!!
Temperature 30-35degrees and altitude 500m-1000meters
Nevertheless, we're back at sea level at 10-15degrees.
Upcoming month I will ride a lot of enduro races with most of the time WOT.
This will be on ploughed land and 5% singletrack. The engine will be in a very stressfull situation.
With the knowladge that my needle (N3CJ) is to lean for that conditions,
i'm wondering what is the best basic needle to start with?
With 35degrees and slow riding, we were overheated. Until we saw this river
Lots of single tracks and steep climbs!
Bike ride perfectly, suspension was awesome and controlled power!
And above of all, no more hanging idle!!
Temperature 30-35degrees and altitude 500m-1000meters
Nevertheless, we're back at sea level at 10-15degrees.
Upcoming month I will ride a lot of enduro races with most of the time WOT.
This will be on ploughed land and 5% singletrack. The engine will be in a very stressfull situation.
With the knowladge that my needle (N3CJ) is to lean for that conditions,
i'm wondering what is the best basic needle to start with?
With 35degrees and slow riding, we were overheated. Until we saw this river
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