More low down power and smoother midrange

[Dude]

What i was always told was less ground off cck and resold fwiw

 

[Tonibe63]

Thanks for the help so far guys.
Just been out, twirled the spanners and found out some base info.

Powervalve opening and closing smooothly-I did notice that the lower edge of powervalve lever plate had been modified to allow the powervalve to close further.
The needle is N1EF and clip is in the middle groove.
Main jet is 178
Pilot jet is 40
Front pipe is FMF Gnarly
Rear silencer is a DEP.

Just for info when checking the reed petals I did notice the gasket between reed block and inlet tract from carb was in the wrong way round. This meant the inlet tract was covered by gasket for about 15% of it's area-it looked original so may have been like that from the factory which may explain some slight hesitation'juddering when on full throttle.

Any thoughts on the above info?
Idealy I'm looking for a good slow speed/smooth bottom end/linear power set up rather than balls out/big hit type riding.

 

[webmaster]

What i was always told was Les ground off cck and resold fwiw

That didn't sound right for what Les used in his jetting kit. - so I just checked with Les and he said it was a DDK. #2 position (from top) and richer pilot...

But Les said he would go with what Roscoe (aka REVERUP) is using now - YZ needle/40 pilot/180 main... From Reverup's post on his new bike setup :

36mm Air striker 2 carb Slide #6.5 with notch.
Yamaha YZ 250 2 stroke factory carb needle N3EJ clip in center position #3
Pilot jet #40
Main #180
1 turn out on air screw


Jeff

 

[Dude]

So he did grind off markings and re sold? I was under the impression this is what he did but had been told also he built needles on a lathe. As someone who has done this for Su's on jags and datsuns i found this kinda hard to believe.

I would have to get a 100 a pop lol.

 

[stainlesscycle]

So he did grind off markings and re sold? I was under the impression this is what he did but had been told also he built needles on a lathe. As someone who has done this for Su's on jags and datsuns i found this kinda hard to believe.

I would have to get a 100 a pop lol.

they were ddk ground off.

 

[HenrikSchmidt]

...Now I wonder where a guy might pick one of those up??

Where do you get those at? I think I need one.

I think you can get them at "trusty.com"
Or maybe I could be convinced to produce some of my covers if there is a need for that, I don't know how much it would cost to produce it, coz I only made the one for my self, and I'm still testing it, to find just the right preload force for the PV.
I'm riding the DEC (Danish Enduro Championship) next weekend, and there is a good chance to do the final testing there.

 

[Bailey28]

Another neat combo for you guys that want control and torque down low and a screaming top end:

BGL -5 (yes a B taper)
40pilot
180main
2 out on air screw

Keep in mind this at sea level warm air for a 300. The taper starts richer but ends up leaner after 1/2 throttle.

 

[stainlesscycle]

Another neat combo for you guys that want control and torque down low and a screaming top end:

BGL -5 (yes a B taper)
40pilot
180main
2 out on air screw

Keep in mind this at sea level warm air for a 300. The taper starts richer but ends up leaner after 1/2 throttle.

here's a great example why the jd jetting database is such a useful tool. i can pop the bgl into the dbase, compare it to my settings and see instantly the difference... unfortunately bgl would end up too lean almost all over for me..

 

[Bailey28]

I have the JD database and I ran the BGL clip 5 against the N1EF clip 1. The BGL is 5-10% leaner everywhere except for one small crest near 1/4 throttle.

I liked it in the rock gardens as the bike didn't load up. I'll agree the CCK is the better all around needle, at least for me at sea level. The BGL did scream mid to top although I would not want to chance a piston in deep sand with that needle during all day operation.

Looking at the N1EF, it seems that profile is what the 300 motors want.... The second, or middle taper of the stock needle is an exact match to the "C" aftermarket needle tapers.

The F is equivalent to the L diameter of the aftermarket needles. CCL would be the exact same stock diameter but different in that it does not have the initial "pilot jet" taper and the last "main jet area" taper. I think the initial taper on the N1EF needle is the equivalent of a very shallow A taper that starts early. Then the last taper on the N1EF needle is very rich, like a J taper to make sure you don't run out of fuel on top.

My bike always loaded up with the stock needle but I might revisit it maybe with a 38 pilot and a 170 main jet.

 

[AdrenalineJunky]

Guys, how does the N3EJ or N3EH feel compared to the CCK? Are they mor elike N3EG or CCK? I?ve tried both N3EG and now I run the CCK. The N3EG had a substantial midrange hit and ran like a raped ape from mid to top! :O The CCK is very "rideable" but seems to use more fuel... Which is confirmed on the JD spreadsheet. Although with the CCK it "feels" like it doesnt run as good on the topend? Does the much improved bottom end power and the lack of a "hit" fool me or does it actually have less ooomphh from midrange and up with the CCK?

 

[socalscott]

Get head mods for .055" squish and she'll deliver the goods, improve mileage and ease jetting.

Advance the timing, you'll convert the CDI to an MX box. Then again that's free.