No 12V power - 2013 EC250R

Jakobi

Jakobi

Super Moderator
Hello, is it me you're looking for?

I'm getting my 2013 model dressed ready for sale and have hit a fork in the road. Bike fires and runs well, is clean and looks alright for what it is. It's a racing model so no electric button, no battery. All voltage from the stator.

However... All lights fitted up, kicked to life, and nothing. No indicators, no headlight, no tail light.. nothing. No voltage registering on the trailtech speedo. Started disconnecting everything to see if I had bad connection somewhere.. Nothing..

All the way back to the 2 female spades out of the stator (yellow and white/blue stripe) and with the engine running no voltage at either. Be very unlikely that the length of harness there would have sustained damage to both wires that provide voltage and not to the ones that run into the cdi. Still getting spark so that part is working aye ok!

Would it be fair to assume the coils for the lighting are done? I've popped the stator cover and flywheel likes alright.. Guess next step is to remove it and then start prodding the multimeter around and measuring some resistances.

Anyone got some useful info or links to how to do so? Never done it before and not a magician with electrics. Greener than watered grass.

Can you recommend anyone in Australia for repairs, or try to source a replacement?
 
I don't know how to read to 2 decimals on my multi meter for resistance. Maybe it's not flash enough

With it set to the 200 on Ohms, I can't get anything to register from yellow to ground, or white to ground; engine off.

If I measure across the two wires together Yellow to White I get 0.5. I think I either have some broken wires, or a shot coil.

I get about 0.4VAC on the white, 0.3VAC on the yellow when running.
 
You should be getting 10s of volts ac when running. On a road bike with a proper regulator that could be 50v. On a DirtBike I'd guess it would be much closer to regulated voltage.
 
(F5) said:
You should be getting 10s of volts ac when running. On a road bike with a proper regulator that could be 50v. On a DirtBike I'd guess it would be much closer to regulated voltage.
Click to expand...

I had reported issues previously with overvolting.. getting around 18VAC with the regulator installed. Tried 3 different regs, all of which trimmed my 2010 model back to where it should be.

Now I'm getting nothing. Dodgy bros stator I guess. Unlikely to have 3 x dodgy regulators that work on another bike...

This thing has been more of a submarine than a dirt bike though.. Specs of surface rust on the flywheel center ring. Bit of dirt/dust inside the flywheel cover.. I'm guessing the stator windings have seen better days. I'll pull the flywheel and roll from there..

Open on both wires isn't a good sign. Now to decide to try and splice a ktm stator into the GG loom, cough up for genuine, or send it out for a rewind.
 
There's a good chap in AUS who sells Electrix stator and keeps stock. Hmm, wonder where info is?
 
Hmm here

Paul O'Carrigan

Precision Performance Motorcycle Parts

+61 7 5463 0088

www.ppmp.net.au

From old email
G146 in stock and it would cost you AU$178 + postage? quickest way from here would be Australia Post blah blah. . . .

Alternatively, also in stock is the G147/RR58 if 3-phase 250W is required but you will need to run a battery or a capacitor. This set would cost AU$252 + same postage.

Was a little hard to get on ph but answered email.


sales@motorcycle-parts.com.au


G146 Worked on my 07 just fine.
 
Jakobi said:
I had reported issues previously with overvolting.. getting around 18VAC with the regulator installed. Tried 3 different regs, all of which trimmed my 2010 model back to where it should be.

Now I'm getting nothing. Dodgy bros stator I guess. Unlikely to have 3 x dodgy regulators that work on another bike...

This thing has been more of a submarine than a dirt bike though.. Specs of surface rust on the flywheel center ring. Bit of dirt/dust inside the flywheel cover.. I'm guessing the stator windings have seen better days. I'll pull the flywheel and roll from there..

Open on both wires isn't a good sign. Now to decide to try and splice a ktm stator into the GG loom, cough up for genuine, or send it out for a rewind.
Click to expand...

I used betta bikes. https://bettabikes.com/services/
 
I've used small coil rewinds in the past with good results. Have read good reviews on betta bikes too. Think I'll ring around a few, get an idea of cost and go from there.
 
I didn't see this post yesterday or I would have commented. My answers in the linked topic pretty much cover everything. With the stator properly grounded you should get voltage at the yellow and white wires (measuring to ground). If not there is something wrong with lighting windings.
 
I sent mine off to be rewound but the resin encasement foiled him. That was for the charge coil section. Not sure if power coils were affected.
 
G146 is unavailable.. So looks like rewind options are the way, or a ktm one (still bloody pricey though).

Or just leave all the lights off, and sell it as is.
 
I think I'll go a rewind... if the price is right.

Pulled the flywheel and stator just now. One whole winding is loose on it's pole and has a broken strand where it moves to the next. Most of the resin looks a bit hardened and cracked. I'll make some calls and see what can be done.
 
Or I'll buy KTM 55139004100 and splice the harness in.

Hey F5, with your after market one I'm assuming you had to splice into the harness as well right?
 
Yeah. Actually it's KTM fitment. Just crimps and heatshrink. Pre insulated crimps are the work of the devil. Solder joints are for electronics as flexible in automotive breaks stiff joints.
 
Deadly as. Have found some cheap china after markets, but if I can get an OEM ktm for around $200 delivered I'll go that route. Makes more sense than having the old one reworked for the same or more money.
 
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