Questions on a new bike? 2010 EC300

[binsel]

Hi All,

I am really enjoying the lightness and handling of this bike but I have a few issues.
The engine is around 20hrs.

1) Clutch slipping: I think the clutch is slipping/noise when I need more torque (uphills, or riding one gear higher etc). I am using Motul Transoil 10W30 as recommended by many. I was told to use non-syn oil not to cause clutch slipping. Do you know what might be causing it?

2) Oil from silencer: I am using 1:40 ratio Motul 800. Should I be using 1:50 ratio as stated on the manual? After 1 or 2 rides, the engine does not start-up at first kick, but it takes several. If I change the spark plug, it starts-up at first kick again. Maybe the rich ratio fouling the plug? By the way, plug insulator is all bright white. Should I be using a hotter plug?

3) Old mixture in tank: This is my first 2T. I drain the mixture after each ride. It takes extra time. Is it ok to leave it in tank for next week's ride?

4) Horn: I am looking for an elegant but not-so-expensive horn solution to my bike. Any recommendations?

Thanks,

Burhan

 

[Neil E.]

1. I tend to think if your clutch is making noise you are not using it properly. This means use a lower gear so you are not loading it too much. That being said, try some different oils to see if one might work better. There are discussions here about clutch hubs, baskets, etc and changing parts would likely help. Most say it's only noise and the clutch still works OK and lasts fine, so it's not a big problem.

2. You may get extra spooge from 40:1 as compared to 50:1, no harm in trying a 50:1 ratio. Your jetting is probably on the rich side and needs to be changed.

3. I think your gas should be OK for up to two weeks. Your bike might not run as crisp, but it should be OK. Do you really need every last bit of power from the engine? If so them maybe fresh gas every ride is worth it.

4. Eric Russell can get you a cheap DC horn. Using a small bridge rectifier fully isolated should make that horn work well. I can help you with this if you're not in a rush.

 

[binsel]

Thanks, Neil.

1. I abused my 4T Husky's clutch and did not hear any noise or experienced any slipping. I think it actually slips when I try to launch on 2nd gear with some rev on a gentle uphill.
I dont want to drop to 1st gear on a 300. I wanted 300 expecting I will have some usable low end torque that would help me change gears less frequently.

Burhan

 

[stainlesscycle]

Thanks, Neil.

1. I abused my 4T Husky's clutch and did not hear any noise or experienced any slipping. I think it actually slips when I try to launch on 2nd gear with some rev on a gentle uphill.
I dont want to drop to 1st gear on a 300. I wanted 300 expecting I will have some usable low end torque that would help me change gears less frequently.

Burhan

it should not slip on 2nd gear launch. uphill or not. it really shouldn't slip or groan no matter how much you abuse it.. i would check your clutch springs/friction plates and see what they look like.

i don't know how you're geared, but i seriously doubt 1st gear is very useful...you should be able to pull just about anything from a dead stop in 2nd or 3rd or maybe even 4th gear.. from my experience 13/50 or so gearing and you can roll around almost entirely in 2nd/3rd/4th gear in the tight stuff.

 

[Clay]

Burhan,
I agree with Stainless. 13/50 will help.
Clay

 

[binsel]

Burhan,
I agree with Stainless. 13/50 will help.
Clay

It's stock; 13/48 now.

 

[Bailey28]

Make sure the adjustment screw on the clutch is nearly all the way out or the master cylinder will not work properly affecting the clutch.

I am test using straight 30 weight oil and the transmission and clutch both seems smoother. I get hardly any drag or noise with 30w.

I use Yamalube 2R for premix, at 36:1. I do leave it in the bike for next week's ride as it has a fuel stabilizer. I would not leave it longer than 30 days.

I am using an NGK BR8EG spark plug, my bike takes about 3 kicks when it is cold, and 1 or 2 when it is hot. I haven't fouled a plug yet but I use my own jetting which is a tad leaner than stock.

 

[husley]

10' 300

Have had my 10' 300 for four months now.

Never had any clutch groaning, although I have had it on several bikes in the past, both 4t and 2t but it only occured when they were cold.

My 300 just about always starts on first kick. Yours sound tough to start and you are having excessive spooge issues and there is an apparent lack of power- maybe your jetting is super rich?

There is a good 2010 300 jetting thread on this site, I found it very imformative and have gotten mine pretty close to pefect.

 

[gg3]

Hi ,Got about about 45hrs on mine.I run the specified GRO oil & no clutch issues at all.Agree with Bailey28 about the adjustment screw.
The Motul transoil didn't go well in my '02 300 gasser.
I also run motul 800 at 50:1.Don't try & clean the motor up with different ratios,just get the jetting right.Plenty of info here on that.I put a JD kit in.
I replaced the Denso plug with an NGK irridium,no fouling ,no starting problems.Most concerned about the BRIGHT WHITE insulator,something is really wrong,that means super lean.Can you post your jetting specs,some of the guys here can sort it out straight away.
What the hell is the horn all about? Solution-Remove the horn with about a metre of wire from it.Swing it around above your head while passing orange bikes.Scares the crap out of them.

 

[Jakobi]

I agree. You describe rich conditions, but then say your plug is reading lean. Before changing plugs or oil ratios at least have a dig into your carb and see whats in there in terms of pilot, needle, clip pos, and main. You should be able to get a good indication of where you are, and where others are from there. If not at least we have some more info to work with.

Clutches will squark. I have made mine do it twice only in 1600km. First time in mud, second in rooty step ups. Both times I was working it harder than I probably should have been. I don't blame it for making noise.

 

[husley]

Ooops

I missed the part about the plug appearing lean.

Yikes, like they said... find out what is going on inside that carb.

 

[binsel]

I am using Motul 800 1:40 and Motul Transoil for gearbox.
I am not comfortable working with carbs especially without a service manual (does not exist!). I guess I need to take it to my dealer 2+ hours away.

Thanks to all.

 

[husley]

Hmmm

I am using Motul 800 1:40 and Motul Transoil for gearbox.
I am not comfortable working with carbs especially without a service manual (does not exist!). I guess I need to take it to my dealer 2+ hours away.

Thanks to all.

I knew nothing about Carbs the first time I tore into one.

Between the folks on here and the ton of info on other sites I think you would have no problem figuring out which jets/needle you have. If this is something as simple as having the incorrect jets you would need nothing more then two screw drivers to fix it.

 

[Neil E.]

Burhan,
Do you have a digital camera with good macro settings? Take a few pictures of the plug after a ride in an open area and again after riding tight trails. Post the pictures here. I can swap the needle for you, it's easy to do (or show you how to do it). ScottyR or Rob Lang should have enough info to suggest a better needle.
My carb is the AS II, so any settings I come up with won't be ideal for your AS I carb. Depending on how you ride, you might be transitioning alot between the pilot jet and needle.
Neil

Years ago roadracers would fine tune their jetting by changing the oil mix ratio. More oil per unit volume of fuel results in slightly leaner operation.

 

[gasser]

Hi All,



2) Oil from silencer: I am using 1:40 ratio Motul 800. Should I be using 1:50 ratio as stated on the manual? After 1 or 2 rides, the engine does not start-up at first kick, but it takes several. If I change the spark plug, it starts-up at first kick again. Maybe the rich ratio fouling the plug? By the way, plug insulator is all bright white. Should I be using a hotter plug?

3) Old mixture in tank: This is my first 2T. I drain the mixture after each ride. It takes extra time. Is it ok to leave it in tank for next week's ride?

Burhan

Try a different oil. GasGas 300s don't generate very high combustion temperatures when ridden a gear high and lugged a lot. I've tried Motul 800 and at 50/1 it spooges like crazy. The reason is that oil's flash point is too high for the way I ride. Every oil is designed to burn away when it reaches a certain temperature. Unburned oil and combustion byproducts mix to create spooge. The 2 stroke oils that I've used had flash points(the temp at which they burn) ranging from 187-237degrees Fahrenheit. Amsoil Interceptor is 187, Amsoil Dominator is 198, Amsoil Sabre flash point is 237. I've run Sabre at 75/1 and it still spooged when the going got slow and technical yet the Interceptor is fairly clean when mixed at 43/1. I think you will be much happier with a lower flash point oil like Amsoil Interceptor, Champion Water Pumper, or Maxima K2.

 

[mrkartoom]

Try a different oil. GasGas 300s don't generate very high combustion temperatures when ridden a gear high and lugged a lot. I've tried Motul 800 and at 50/1 it spooges like crazy. The reason is that oil's flash point is too high for the way I ride. Every oil is designed to burn away when it reaches a certain temperature. Unburned oil and combustion byproducts mix to create spooge. The 2 stroke oils that I've used had flash points(the temp at which they burn) ranging from 187-237degrees Fahrenheit. Amsoil Interceptor is 187, Amsoil Dominator is 198, Amsoil Sabre flash point is 237. I've run Sabre at 75/1 and it still spooged when the going got slow and technical yet the Interceptor is fairly clean when mixed at 43/1. I think you will be much happier with a lower flash point oil like Amsoil Interceptor, Champion Water Pumper, or Maxima K2.

That's very interesting. I've never really taken flash points into account, but rather tended to stick with oils that I know and are locally available. I'm curious how oil flash points relate to protection and lubrication at various engine temps. Would one want to stay away from low flash point oils if they are on the pipe a lot, or do they all offer similar protection regardless?

 

[gasser]

Hi All,


2) Oil from silencer: I am using 1:40 ratio Motul 800. Should I be using 1:50 ratio as stated on the manual?
3) Old mixture in tank: This is my first 2T. I drain the mixture after each ride. It takes extra time. Is it ok to leave it in tank for next week's ride?

Don't get hung up on what the manual recommends for gas/oil mixture. They say 50 to 1 (or 2%) because that is what they used when jetting the bike. Pick an oil that you trust and like and mix it at the ratio the oil maker designed it for then rejet your bike if needed.
As for leaving gas in your tank for a week I do it all the time but I only use non-ethanol fuel.

 

[stainlesscycle]

As for leaving gas in your tank for a week I do it all the time but I only use non-ethanol fuel.

yep -

i run 50/50 93/110 - i store it in a metal container. i can tell no difference if fuel sits for a week or 2 in tank. maybe a month and degradation/evaporation would effect performance...

 

[Bailey28]

On a very hot day when riding the bike hard on a sandy mx track, could some of the intake fuel charge evaporate before it reaches the combustion chamber making the bike run lean?

I was running a 35 pilot with a DDL needle on the track. In the morning the bike ran great. I noticed the hotter it got and the longer I rode the bike seemed to get real lean on the bottom end, like when coasting into a corner or slowing down at the end of a long straight.

I wound up screwing in the air screw almost all the way to get it from sounding too lean here. I bumped back to a 38 pilot and I will test again as it is getting even hotter but it got lean.

 

[GMP]

Everyone has there own opinion on oil/ratios, here is some science to either back up or dispute yours:

http://www.maximausa.com/tech-tips/oil-migration.php

Migration anaylisis using a radioactive tracer. Short answer is that a 250 should see a 40:1 minimum for adequate lubrication in racing applications, but may be adfjusted to suit use. Now, other studies have shown that the more oil, the better the ring sealing and power, as long as jetting is corrected. I can tell you for sure that at 36:1 Amsoil Dominator, performance and engine life is outstanding. A piston with 85 hrs was well within spec and replaced for potential fatigue, not wear reasons. Spooges a bit, not excessive, but I don't care about spooge.

I've been draining my tank into a steel VP race fuel can if I do not plan on riding again in the next few days. If it sits for more than a couple weeks it gets reallocated to weed wacker fuel. I've also been using the Startron fuel additive to negate the ethanol, with Gulf 93 pump gas. I used to do the 50/50 race gas mix but it just got too expensive. Bike runs great.