Rear brakes not working well

2012 300. Rear brake not working very well. Any where I shoud look first?

1. Bleed
2. Give the pads and rotor a little time to get intimate
3. Bleed
4. Ensure your brake pedal is not adjusted so low that it contacts the frame during use
5. Bleed

* there is a possibility that you may think your brakes aren't working very well, but that's because you're going much faster than you expected. This was an "issue" with my first 300 ...
 
I like your last coment. haha I am used to a 450 so dont think that is the problem. I have to put way to much pressure to get any desent power to the breaks. I have new pads but they have had time to mate. I bkake cleaned and scuffed the pads and rotor some but never helped. I will try bleeding them next.
 
I agree. I had my son's pedal adjusted too low to begin with and it was hitting the frame. This is something we need to get the factory to start working on. We ride differently here than those guys over there do.
 
No hacksaw fix here.:eek: I personally like a lot of free play in the pedal to avoid locking the brakes too easy, but no can do with this setup. Very limited range of engagement. I may make up a smaller brake pedal tip to avoid grabbing it too easy. I kind of like this anyway, I rode with a snapped off pedal tip one day and had no problems.
 
In my son's last race report he mentions a "slight brake problem" before the Jack Pine Enduro. I had to cannibalize the push rod from our 2011 to put on his '12 after a freak, backwards-riding incident that broke his push rod. I bench-tested after the switch but that didn't allow me to detect that the pedal wasn't getting full travel. You get a little more pedal pushing power with your foot than you do with your hand. Found out the pedal was bottoming out on the frame when he warmed up prior to the race start, made a slight adjustment, and sent him off to WIN!

BTW, that push rod part is unavailable from GasGas, which in my opinion is CRAP! They want to sell you the master cylinder assembly instead. I ended up having his broken push rod welded back together.
 
OK wll check this. I like running pedal fairly low as I have a habit of dragging the brake sometimes. I never noticed the pedal hitting anything but better look a little closer.
 
if you adjusted the pedal height down at all I guarantee its hitting the frame. I made the same mistake. I like my pedal level or below peg height and it seems I have to run it VERY high on the gasser or it hits the frame.
 
well I raised pedal and bleed rear brake and still not very good. Have a feeling the rotor is glazed up. Any other ideas and any good way to deglaze rotor. Can try a new set of pads also.
 
brake

I run pedal toe piece on bottom of brake arm, also not impressed with brake power. also shimmed arm in after breaking 130.00 dollar pedal. does meca skid plate help protect pedal?
 
I've been suffering from a similar issue & am convinced after bleeding, adjusting & replacing pads, that it's the disc. First race out last yr & I bent my brake pedal back & didn't even realise I was trailing/standing on the pedal half the time!!! it's never worked right since. So a replacement Galfer is next on my to do list.

Robs.
 
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