Rekluse exp.
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SingleTrackMind
New member
Wouldn't happen to have a pic of this in action would you?
I did this for the old style Husaberg engine that I had apart and together so many times I didn't need the manual. On that motor a small gear piece was held between the clutch basket gear and primary gear. This locked the clutch basket gear holding the outer basket stationary. The holding tool (riveted clutch plates) then held the inner hub for removing or installing the clutch hub nut.
In the case of the GG, some nylon webbing can be pinched between the primary gear and clutch basket gear (I have yet to tear down a GG). The riveted clutch plates would then hold the inner hub stationary.
The other way to do this (and how most clutch tools work) is to weld a long handle to the riveted steel plate. One hand on the clutch tool and one hand on the torque wrench and you are good to go for removal or installation of the hub nut. You could also use the tool when tightening or removing the primary nut.
I can take a photo if needed.
In the case of the GG, some nylon webbing can be pinched between the primary gear and clutch basket gear (I have yet to tear down a GG). The riveted clutch plates would then hold the inner hub stationary.
The other way to do this (and how most clutch tools work) is to weld a long handle to the riveted steel plate. One hand on the clutch tool and one hand on the torque wrench and you are good to go for removal or installation of the hub nut. You could also use the tool when tightening or removing the primary nut.
I can take a photo if needed.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...cle-Engine-Tools-EBC-Clutch-Removal-Tool.aspx
Would look similar to this. Engages into hub and basket. Handle would come straight up out of basket then have a bend (more room for holding and easier to clear the rest of the bike).
Would look similar to this. Engages into hub and basket. Handle would come straight up out of basket then have a bend (more room for holding and easier to clear the rest of the bike).
The Core engages much more positivly than the various other Rekluse products I have used. oil doe not get near as hot. Harder engagement makes it easy to loft the front wheel over things. The only thing I do not agree with is that the clutch feels just like a manual clutch. That is true if you want to fully disengage it (Like a full power shift) but if you are used too a real fine clutch slip/modulation with a manual clutch you will not get this with an EXP. The clutch modulation will change as the RPM's build and you lose the contol of the clutch. This is a "so what" for most people since it works so good anyway and the GasGas has a great motor. But if you are someone who is really good with a clutch this will bother you.
moto9
Silver Level Site Supporter
Me either...but even then I would have to think about it.
I'm not sure I'm ready to abandon the clutch lever yet, I actually don't want to make riding any easier.
I ride with a group of guys and some of them had trouble making it thru certin trail sections...now with the rekluse they breeze thru them.
For me, working the clutch is an intergal part of riding that I'm not ready to give up on...I like to struggle on sections that, well I should struggle on.
moto9
Silver Level Site Supporter
Now in that situation, I'd be looking for any advantage I could get, Ya,I would use any gizmo that would make me faster.
Truth is I'm not a pro, However I am pretty fast in my mind, I just ride for fun
and old school clutching is part of it"for me"
So, you think were funny guys huh..."what like funny Ha Ha" ?
andoman
New member
Are any with the Core EXP using the anti-squeal kit?
Without it, my '11 300 sounds like its coming apart whenever the clutch is slipping.
Also, out of curiosity, can ya'all post up your final setting (ticks past one turn) that ended up working for you?
And any other settings you tried?
Thanks. Just about got mine dialed, but proper free-play gain gives me too much drag. Thanks!
Without it, my '11 300 sounds like its coming apart whenever the clutch is slipping.
Also, out of curiosity, can ya'all post up your final setting (ticks past one turn) that ended up working for you?
And any other settings you tried?
Thanks. Just about got mine dialed, but proper free-play gain gives me too much drag. Thanks!
1 turn and 2 marks works best for me.
I use anti-squeal kit.
I also ended using Honda CR 250 frictionplates. I needed to install 3 original clutch cover gaskets to get enough clearance between clutch and cover. But they work well.
I also changed EXP ring setting to hardest (6 blue sprigs).
I was using Bell Ray Gearsaver oil before, now I use Q8 10W40 superbike oil. It works better. I might try 15W40 oil next.
I use anti-squeal kit.
I also ended using Honda CR 250 frictionplates. I needed to install 3 original clutch cover gaskets to get enough clearance between clutch and cover. But they work well.
I also changed EXP ring setting to hardest (6 blue sprigs).
I was using Bell Ray Gearsaver oil before, now I use Q8 10W40 superbike oil. It works better. I might try 15W40 oil next.
andoman
New member
Blue Springs
Can you elaborate on exactly the effect you gained with the swap to the blue springs?
Thanks.
Can you elaborate on exactly the effect you gained with the swap to the blue springs?
Thanks.
Clutch connects in a bit higher rews. I had stalling problems when clutch / oil was hot in long races.
desertgasser300
Banned
Mine does the same thing, I have just learned to deal it.
I have adjusted the rekluse: 1 full turn and 1 hash mark, 2 marks and 3 marks with the same result of drag. I would be interested to hear how yours works going to the blue springs.
