Securing a bike in the back of a pickup
- Thread starter iggs
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twowheels
New member
It's unlikely that you'll be able to close the tailgate but you should be able to go straight in. I use a PC Racing fork support to keep from over-compressing the forks, and soft-strap around the bars to a caribiner-equipped set of tiedowns.
pscook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Kind of a small picture, but just tie the handle bars to the corner rings in the bed of the truck. Make sure the bike is secure, and it's okay if you have to angle the bike a bit to close the tail gate.
If you can, get soft straps (http://www.amazon.com/Soft-Loops-Tie-Down-Straps/dp/B002MYLB1Y) or some way to keep the hooks off of your handle bars. Loop the soft straps around the lowest bend of your bars just outside of the triple tree, and hook the tie down straps into the loops. Then run the tie down straps to the eyes in the corner of your bed. That's it. It should be self evident once you get the bike in there.
If you can, get soft straps (http://www.amazon.com/Soft-Loops-Tie-Down-Straps/dp/B002MYLB1Y) or some way to keep the hooks off of your handle bars. Loop the soft straps around the lowest bend of your bars just outside of the triple tree, and hook the tie down straps into the loops. Then run the tie down straps to the eyes in the corner of your bed. That's it. It should be self evident once you get the bike in there.
andoman
New member
The correct length of a 4x4 works as a fork support.
+1 on the soft ties.
If you tie down with the front wheel in a front corner of your bed, you can close the tailgate if you move the bike's rear end over to one side as far as you can.
If it won't quite close, then lift up the rear tire and set a a couple of blocks of wood under the tire.
If the tailgate still won't completely close, you may be able to rout your tailgate support cables so that the tailgate is held up against the bike's rear tire.
Its nice to have the tailgate at least partially closed so you can throw gear in the bed knowing that it wont roll out the back.
Another option is spending for a bed extender rack that keeps everything in with the tailgate down.
+1 on the soft ties.
If you tie down with the front wheel in a front corner of your bed, you can close the tailgate if you move the bike's rear end over to one side as far as you can.
If it won't quite close, then lift up the rear tire and set a a couple of blocks of wood under the tire.
If the tailgate still won't completely close, you may be able to rout your tailgate support cables so that the tailgate is held up against the bike's rear tire.
Its nice to have the tailgate at least partially closed so you can throw gear in the bed knowing that it wont roll out the back.
Another option is spending for a bed extender rack that keeps everything in with the tailgate down.
Coop
New member
I haul mine in an s-10. I put the front wheel in the corner of the bed, tie down using bed rails. Then I can close the gate and not worry about my gear bag, fuel can, ramp etc., sliding out the back. I use a folding ATV ramp since I've had two back surgeries and a bicep surgery I need to be able to easily ride or push the bike into the bed.
StuJohnson
New member
I have the Condor Wheel Chock that I use in the back of my truck bed.
The cool thing about these is that once the front wheel is rolled in you can get off the bike and tie it all down without having to stay on the bike to hold it up straight. The stand holds the bike in place w/o falling over and also keeps the front wheel from moving around which is very handy when you might be driving down a forest road bumpy as hell to get to the trail head
http://www.amazon.com/CONDOR-SC1500-Motorcycle-Chocks-Permanent/dp/B002L28KH0/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1397663878&sr=1-5&keywords=condor+motorcycle+wheel+chock
The cool thing about these is that once the front wheel is rolled in you can get off the bike and tie it all down without having to stay on the bike to hold it up straight. The stand holds the bike in place w/o falling over and also keeps the front wheel from moving around which is very handy when you might be driving down a forest road bumpy as hell to get to the trail head
http://www.amazon.com/CONDOR-SC1500-Motorcycle-Chocks-Permanent/dp/B002L28KH0/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1397663878&sr=1-5&keywords=condor+motorcycle+wheel+chock
liv2day
Platinum Level Site Supporter
That's a great idea Stu, do you have it mounted to anything?
Another good concept that my buddy uses is a regular wheel chock mounted to a pressure treated 2x12 cut to fit the width of his truck bed (with enough room so he can pull it out when needed). It won't allow you to get off the bike to secure the tie downs, but it works really well and he can angle the back of the bike to close the gate after it's secured.
StuJohnson
New member
Thanks
That is a very similar to setup to what I have. I will snap a photo of my setup today. You can't make fun as I usually go a few steps too many then what is actually necessary...
I do not have a pickup but I am using Risk Racing's Lock-n-Load in my van and recommend it wholeheartedly.
Link is here: http://www.riskracing.com/pages/Lock-N-Load_Motocross_Transport_Page.html
Link is here: http://www.riskracing.com/pages/Lock-N-Load_Motocross_Transport_Page.html
Kind of a small picture, but just tie the handle bars to the corner rings in the bed of the truck. Make sure the bike is secure, and it's okay if you have to angle the bike a bit to close the tail gate.
If you can, get soft straps (http://www.amazon.com/Soft-Loops-Tie-Down-Straps/dp/B002MYLB1Y) or some way to keep the hooks off of your handle bars. Loop the soft straps around the lowest bend of your bars just outside of the triple tree, and hook the tie down straps into the loops. Then run the tie down straps to the eyes in the corner of your bed. That's it. It should be self evident once you get the bike in there.
This is all you need to do ^^^^^
I mounted a 'backrack' on my Sierra & drilled a few 1/2" holes in the web gusset above where it attaches to the box. I hook my straps in those holes.
The forks should be compressed about 30-40% of travel when the bike is properly strapped down.
I run another strap across the back of the truck thru the rear wheel and use it to secure my ramps.
I'm going against the grain here, but I don't believe it's a good idea to put a block between the tire and fender to support the forks. There are a couple reasons for this; Blocking doesn't do anything for modern forks. They can't 'blow' while compressed. They'd blow while out riding if they could. They can't be over compressed by tie-downs either. It takes a LOT of force to bottom a fork.
It's actually better to keep the straps under more tension via fork compression, as it's harder for things to come unhooked if you're driving down a very rough road. Plus the bike will have less tendency to bounce around on the truck or trailer.
If you have a seal leak during transport, it isn't because of compressing the forks, it's because you have an issue with your seals/wipers, and/or the slider.
bowhunter007
New member
Bolted one to the floor of my trailer. They're also nice in the shop...not bolted down. Park anywhere, and no accidental retractable kickstand incidents.
**Cycle Gear Usually has their house brand version on sale. Not as fancy, but work equally as well...I got one for $60**
I'm going to suggest something wasn't being done right for that to happen.....
Bikes only fall over, or come undone when there isn't enough preload created by compressing the forks about 1/3 or more(about 4"), and/or the straps weren't attached properly. You have to get into the progression curve of the fork. The hooks on the straps have to be set in the attachment points properly (surprising how many guys don't do this properly) The ends of the hooks always should be facing up and out, never down and in.(millwrights know this). Better yet, use good carabiners.
The straps should be as close to 45 degrees as possible from bike to tie point on truck or trailer. Multiple bikes should be tied to each other as well as to the transport vehicle. (I can't believe how many guys tie the straps vertically, or close to vertically & the bike sways around like a drunk)
On trailers, bikes generally should be tied by an extra 2 points such as the footpegs, due to the extra bouncing a trailer goes thru.
I've seen unblocked bikes fall only when guys just compress the forks a tiny bit; say an inch or so, or didn't set their straps properly. I've also seen blocked bikes come undone as well for the same reasons.
You can't actually get a more solid tie down using a block vs without- you'd be breaking the law of physics.
Tiedowns always have to be in tension. An unblocked bike tied properly will keep more necessary tension on the straps vs a blocked bike.
Personally, I've tied hundreds, if not thousands of bikes down without blocks on trucks, trailers, carriers etc. never had one come loose.
StuJohnson
New member
Wow... Are You an engineer by trade
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Similar above, soft ties and whatnot.
Like to toss one tiedown off the footpeg, to the rear of the bed tiedown point, pulling the bike backwards. Grab the rear tire and pull down on it whilst simultaneously cinching up on the strap.
No need for chocks doing it that way, plus keeps the rear from hopping about on rough terrain. Usually only do one side, but two make it even more stable.
Keeps the front wheel off the front of the bed too, that way you won't dent it.
Like to toss one tiedown off the footpeg, to the rear of the bed tiedown point, pulling the bike backwards. Grab the rear tire and pull down on it whilst simultaneously cinching up on the strap.
No need for chocks doing it that way, plus keeps the rear from hopping about on rough terrain. Usually only do one side, but two make it even more stable.
Keeps the front wheel off the front of the bed too, that way you won't dent it.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I always use a chock between the mud guard and tyre. It gives a solid perch and doesn't keep sustained pressure on the forks.
Also, don't think it was mentioned, but you can also tie down around the fork tube/triple clamp as opposed to over the handlebars. I also feel this is more solid and doesn't interfere or rub as much.
And.. I hardly ever load my bike up! Just ride straight to the dirt and brap on!
Also, don't think it was mentioned, but you can also tie down around the fork tube/triple clamp as opposed to over the handlebars. I also feel this is more solid and doesn't interfere or rub as much.
And.. I hardly ever load my bike up! Just ride straight to the dirt and brap on!
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I'm keen to hear how..
The chock/brace makes everything rigid. The only way you will a drop in tension is if the strap loosens, or the tyre slides sideways. The use of the chock also transfers more pressure into the tyre spreading the load/footprint reducing slippage.
On the contrary, without a brace an impact can result in the fork compressing and creating reduced tension on the tie downs, which may offer an opportunity for the front to unload and also move.
Correct me if I'm wrong..
