GMP
Active member
First off I moved this thread to the proper forum.
Yes, you are correct in that the area to smooth or polish is the potential reed contact area. To do this right you have to pull the top end, you can leave the piston on the rod. I put it at approx TDC and secured it to the front studs with zip ties. This gives you room to work. Put a sock or rag over it for protection. Wipe down the crank/case area with contact cleaner to remove oil, and go to town with masking tape, sealing up any path for debri to fall into the cases. Ever see a surgery? Think that way. Now, with the reed block still installed, move the upper and lower petals to where they contact the case surfaces, and mark the cases just foward of this. You will be able to see if this area is flat and smooth or not, and what you will have to remove to make it that way. Pay particular attention to the corners and where the cases meet. Next, get a fine, flat file and coat the front with grease to trap filings as well as the area to be worked on. Simply take your time and slowly work the area to remove the rough surface and make the area flat. You work from the rear and will need a mirror to see the top. Use a shop vac to clear out the filings as you go. Frequently refit the reed, move the petals, and see how it looks. Finish with a scotch brite pad. Remember its just for a smooth contact area so it does not have to be actually polished like a mirror. When your satisfied, clean everything up carefully, and reinstall the top end.
Its a bit time consuming but if your having unexplained reed life problems its worth it. My bikes have had excellent reed life following this.
Yes, you are correct in that the area to smooth or polish is the potential reed contact area. To do this right you have to pull the top end, you can leave the piston on the rod. I put it at approx TDC and secured it to the front studs with zip ties. This gives you room to work. Put a sock or rag over it for protection. Wipe down the crank/case area with contact cleaner to remove oil, and go to town with masking tape, sealing up any path for debri to fall into the cases. Ever see a surgery? Think that way. Now, with the reed block still installed, move the upper and lower petals to where they contact the case surfaces, and mark the cases just foward of this. You will be able to see if this area is flat and smooth or not, and what you will have to remove to make it that way. Pay particular attention to the corners and where the cases meet. Next, get a fine, flat file and coat the front with grease to trap filings as well as the area to be worked on. Simply take your time and slowly work the area to remove the rough surface and make the area flat. You work from the rear and will need a mirror to see the top. Use a shop vac to clear out the filings as you go. Frequently refit the reed, move the petals, and see how it looks. Finish with a scotch brite pad. Remember its just for a smooth contact area so it does not have to be actually polished like a mirror. When your satisfied, clean everything up carefully, and reinstall the top end.
Its a bit time consuming but if your having unexplained reed life problems its worth it. My bikes have had excellent reed life following this.
