What did you do to your Gas Gas today?

When racing on Sunday, I noticed some clutch slipping, in places where it shouldn't slip. The clutch is a Rekluse Core EXP 3.0, so some slipping is to be expected :p

When I got home, I disassembled it to measure the discs. They measured OK, but then I noticed two hairline cracks in the Rekluse friction disk.

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I have searced the 'net and spare parts seems to be readily available, so I asked my Norwegian Gasgas importer if he can get me the parts. I hope to have them in a week's time.

While I had it apart, I also installed the Rekluse brake pedal tip.
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The Rekluse ring was broken
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I picked up the Rekluse parts from my dealer and mounted it all together, adjusted and tested.
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And then I put on a new seat cover.
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What I did on my GasGas.
Yesterday (my Sunday) trail ride:

1. Pulled a skilled and very stylish wheelie passing someone up a steep hill.

2. Immediately as it came down I had another bite of the cherry and with inverse relationship of skill and style, very nearly flipped that puppy, closest I've ever been and too dim witted to try reach the rear brake, got through on luck alone. Fortunately I didn't know the witness. :o
 
What I did on my GasGas.
Yesterday (my Sunday) trail ride:

1. Pulled a skilled and very stylish wheelie passing someone up a steep hill.

2. Immediately as it came down I had another bite of the cherry and with inverse relationship of skill and style, very nearly flipped that puppy, closest I've ever been and too dim witted to try reach the rear brake, got through on luck alone. Fortunately I didn't know the witness. :o
I've learnt that overtaking someone with style just motivates them to chase you, but out of control normally knocks the wind out of them ... good job!!
 
Is the Rekluse pedal pad much bigger than factory brother? Part number?

The Rekluse tip is the same length (39mm) as the OEM. However, it is a bit wider at 36 vs 29mm. It is also quite a bit higher.

Here, I have placed the OEM tip on top of the Rekluse to see the difference in height and width.

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The same setup, seen from above. Sorry for the out of focus image.
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Part number
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The Rekluse tip is the same length (39mm) as the OEM. However, it is a bit wider at 36 vs 29mm. It is also quite a bit higher.

Here, I have placed the OEM tip on top of the Rekluse to see the difference in height and width.

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The same setup, seen from above. Sorry for the out of focus image.
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Part number
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^^^^Thanks Gents :cool:
 
After last night's training session, I noticed that the hour counter had passed 250 hours, showing 250.3.

My 2015 EC200 has been with me since October 2015 and has served me well. This means that I have used it for approx 60 hours a year, somewhat less than I had hoped.
 
Well apart from my new rear bracket for the chain guard posted elsewhere, we did this today


Ahh crap cant seem to load it today. Scenery was stunning. Hot as needed lots of sunscreen.
 
Last night's jobs were;

Fit 5.7N/mm rear spring and set sag
Fit new S3 power valve assembly
Fit new FMF gnarly front pipe
 

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I replaced the left radiator, as it suddenly started leaking. Luckily, I had a pair of secondhand ones laying around.

Tomorrow is race day, the first round of the Norwegian Enduro Cup.
 
Put on the summer tires. After a total stop in all types of sports since March 13, we are now allowed to do some riding again. Very limited, though. Maximum 5 persons at the track, and always keeping a distanse of at least 2m between us.
I will be in a group of 5 today, my first ride in a month.
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Sent fra min YAL-L21 via Tapatalk
 
Not my GasGas, but a GasGas project.

A poster here had problems with the CDI box on his 2000 TXT 280.

Knowing a bit about this stuff, i wasn curious whether another option was available.

I ordered a CDI from a Honda CRF 50. Search AC CDI Box Unit 6-Pin For Honda XR CRF 50 70 80 100 Z 50 CRF50 CRF70 CRF100 Z50 on ebay.

Anyway, i was able to make it work. Checked its advance map, and it seems REALLY close to EC300 timing advance map.

I tested it on my lathe, but i haven't put it in the bike yet. That's for another day. However, it sparks and the timing light shows that it advances like the stock unit (probably within less than one degree), it should work fine.

If you're interested or having CDI issues, let me know, and I can work you though this.
 

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You say advances, but presumably it should them retard significantly back to say 15degrees at peak power as most competition 2 strokes seem to need to survive?
 
Good point. Thanks for bringing that up. Brain schism. About 10 years ago, i built an ignition using and arduino mini to map ignition timing. That approach could be done here pretty easily with an arduino intercepting and modifying timing, and letting the CDI box provide the spark. (I still have my notes from that exercise). I had forgotten about the timing advance reduction at high speed.D'oh!

I didn't spin it up too fast (maybe 5 k) and the two data points i had (small speed/high speed) were about the same.

OR, instead of the arduino, the easier thing to do would be to buy a PW80 CDI (https://www.ebay.com/itm/IGNITION-C...epid=0&hash=item2619ba4621:g:xVoAAOSwAtlcqx4s), figure its wiring, and then run it to check its spark advance curve (all the way to higher speeds). For $16, i could do that experiment, too. Maybe that will be this weekend's project.

Thanks for bringing me back to reality. it might be worth $20 to have a spare/good CDI to check if you have ignition issues.
 
Okey Dokey,

Next weekend -here we go.

I found a two-stroke CDI for $13. I am going to give that a run.

Thanks again for pointing that out. You can see the advance curve on the face plate.

Boy, idle hands with the social distancing - gotta' have something to do!
 

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Kewl. I've ridden a TZR50, actually both models which were imports, we never got them new. One had an aftermarket cdi. Maybe the same.

Hunt for CR250 ignition curve which is likely a safe reference and likely to be found. Actually I can probably fire up the garage laptop, heck I'd best charge it anyway.

I bought several Ignitech programmable DC CDIs for various mates a a group buy but they came as CR250 kits with a ignition curve and wiring diagram, but of course could be configured to anything with 12v supply and 1 or 2 cylinders.

They went mainly on single roadrace bikes as well as my big block RZ350/500. I did consider whether they could be used on the GG, the question to whether the lighting coils would produce enough power when kickstarting. On the racebikes you (have to) run then with a big capacitor and a Chinese rectifier regulator. 2 steps dump the clutch in 2nd and they fire up.
 
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